spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Stihl usually uses a spring that pushes on the choke lever, perhaps the spring has got moved and is in the wrong position.
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Thanks Will, guess it was nice to get the saw working after you messing with it for so long and getting a sore head:thumbup: Fortunately it wasn't the time waster it could have been and was in pretty good overall condition apart from the parts I changed/replaced. Glad it is back earning money:thumbup1:
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The base gasket can be dropped while still maintaining enough squish clearance and the port timing on these machines is pretty wild compared to many other machines. Blow down is around 13 - 14 degrees so is already extremely low and had to recheck the durations twice as they are just different from the typical MS660/460 type of machine. On this machine, it had stuffers on the crank lobes and a lot of transfer velocity hence the wild durations so avoid opening up the lowers or doing anything to alter this velocity. I have found standard timing works and the increase in port width/shape, increased compression and an aggressive muffler mod hits the nail on the head for me. Experiment yourself and see what you get.
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Tuning is generally picking up gains in compression, widening/reshaping ports and then timing changes if required and always in this order. Fortunately, the 357XP has the first two in abundance and the port figures are pretty good as they are.
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The amount a port can be modified is dictated by the width of the piston skirt, the ring ends and the maximum known safety margin that you work within. The height of the port is only changed if you want to change the revs which the power kicks in, the shape of the port is often changed if there is little width change that can be done. The transfer timing is changed if the manufacturer may have left a bit on the table or the exhaust roof has changed shape to the degree less blow-down time is required.
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Been porting another 357XP yesterday, turned out well, thought I would show a comparison of the standard exhaust port and the modded one. Lots can be done to these saws resulting in 30%+ gains.
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Stihl MS 150 chainsaw problems?
spudulike replied to CarrieonCarving's topic in Chainsaw Carving Forum
There was an issue with the flywheels not being torqued down enough. Yours has probably spun and clouted the coil damaging both or the coil has come undone and clouted the flywheel. These new flywheels don't take the torque the older ones used to and reckon Stihl just undercooked the factory settings. I have worked on many and the flywheel nuts have been fairly loose on some of them! -
The needle is either stuck, leaking or the diaphragm has gone baggy and is keeping the needle open. You have fuel puddled in the bottom of your engine causing a fluid lock and is stopping the engine turning over. Sort out the carb with a new kit or adjustment, pull the sparkplug and turn the engine upside down and pull it over clearing the fuel. Refit the plug and try starting with full throttle but no choke.
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I'll give you £50 for the saw:sneaky2:
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Ebay issue - any ideas what to do about this one?
spudulike replied to agg221's topic in General chat
Have you spoken to the neighbours, we take in stuff and often they just trust us but know the drivers quite well now. TBH Parcelforce are one of the better ones out there. -
I haven't sold anything for a while but I used to put a written instruction in with the saw and put in bold red that using neat fuel will damage the saw. I also always did a vid on youtube of the saw working and took the time to give instruction to any purchaser picking the saw up. I never had any issues but you have to remember, many purchasers will be numptys who have never used a saw so sending it out with the bar and chain attached and pre tensioned and with a bottle of two stroke included can be small things that stop this sort of thing occurring. I guess most people are too lazy to work out how to use their new purchase and are too dishonest to blame their own stupidity!!
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That isn't a roller, it is the curved end of the brake band. I don't reckon that the piece missing will cause an issue as it is just a channel that allows the top of the brake mechanism to slide on one direction. Perhaps the fragment got stuck in the mechanism. Aftermarket - it is a safety device, not gone there to date and would only do it on a customers demand and not supply and fit one without pointing out the implications.
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Mmmm - I am usually replacing the parts left out by owners that can't quite work out where they have come from:001_rolleyes:
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I did a repair and light port on a DCS7901 recently. The saw had fast pickup but never got the time to use it but the build looked pretty good to me. The circlip tang had come off and caused a bit of naughtiness in the cylinder but was able to repair it as one does. The low screw on this saw was adjustable but the H screw was blanked by a plug in the side recoil cover. I just tached the saw, removed the cover, gave the H screw a wiggle and returned the cover and got it to around 13000rpm. I think the max is 13500 and the coil is limited so watch out for that! Haven't got any feedback on the saw yet!
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I have ported a couple, the very flat floor of the exhaust port is a worry on those saws and there isn't as much to be done as on the older version but there are improvements that can be made.
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How is the vote for Husky or Stihl now.....does anyone say Stihl are better:sneaky2:
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Had a 066 in for porting, just needed a new clutch drum as the original was knackered. Finished porting a 372XP, a few issues with the coil but got over those. Also got another MS200 in, the crank bearings are pretty rough so got new ones to fit. Just finished porting a 346XP and have another 372XP to port next week. Also fitted new brighter lights in the workshop and been shifting one of my log stores to a better place in the back garden.
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Good saw for your sort of budget, should last many years and not break the bank!
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Not surprised you are stone deaf with your bad boy mufflers:001_rolleyes:
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They are very good, best to get the IPL for your saw, get the part numbers and enter them in to the search box as their key word search can be a bit hit and miss - shame as they have a very professional service backing up their website with fast delivery, even on order in parts.
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May as well throw Ironfist, Catweezle, Big Daddy and Giant Haystacks in to the Saturday afternoon tag!
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I was thinking 346xp, MS260 or 357xp but would be secondhand and you would need to make sure it still has the original top end as typical eBay saws are often refurbed with aftermarket kits.
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New saw time begins with a budget......if you use a saw regularly and it pays you back in firewood or payment for work then your budget will be more than if you are an occasional user. Tell us how much cash you have and it will give us an idea of what may suit!
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I think the modern expression is that "it is a win win situation":thumbup:
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A muffler mod will always increase the sound level just because you are letting the thing flow better. Some are louder than others - did a 362 a while ago and it was REALLY loud. You can do things to keep the noise a bit lower but performance will drop off if you don't open it up much.
