spudulike

You aren't joking, just managed to clear most of it for the time being!

Yup, it is older than me....if you can imagine that. You will need to get the timing wheel out to do the ignition timing, a seal has gone, needs a new carb kit, the recoil is a bit iffy and can you lower the squish and open up the exhaust port.....oh, the reeds need a check as well:confused1: I am sure you are up to it:thumbup: Yes, you learn well Grasshopper.......now there's a TV show:thumbup:

Done a fair few 395XPs now and everyone likes them including MattyF and he would REALLY bitch if it wasn't right:sneaky2::001_tongue:

I know who I am going to send my saws to in future:sneaky2: Fancy a 1959 Mcculloch Andy:001_tt2:

The 395 will be of more use than a 3120 and will do most of what a 3120 can do. Just depends on what saws you have around it and the type of work you do but the 395 is a big enough brute to get you out of most trouble. Not really any known issues with it. Solid well made lump of a saw!

Time for a kip and a rest....bloody saws, think I should do soft furnishings as a change:blushing:

Got a 550 in at the moment but no 262, got my own 268 which is from the same era!

Not tried it TBH, not sure Friday night after half a bottle of Vino, I can be trusted to try such a deviant thing:sneaky2:

We need to have a chat about where to go now. I guess it seized for a reason so pressure and vac test? The clutch drum is missing, have you tried one off a 372? I reckon it will fit, do you want me to get an aftermarket one in and see if I can get it to work OK? Good news so far - can send it back as is if you like - choice is yours

Always a pleasure and thanks for the good rep:thumbup:

Thank you Graham - how are the ears:lol:

Had Will's Jonsered exercise machine on the bench, I guess he likes pulling that handle as he had connected the impulse line to the fuel connection and vice versa with the fuel line:sneaky2: Reconnected correctly, tested the fuel line and pulled the clutch as there is no clutch drum fitted - probably a good thing he didn't manage to start it as it would have taken out the brake band:001_rolleyes: Fired second pull and ran on the fifth, all seems OK:thumbup: Oh - got interrupted half way through - had to shoot a rat in the back garden - another one bites the dust!!

A question that has been asked many times. The general abuse and lack of maintenance will kill a saw far faster than my porting. I stay within known parameters when I port and although the saw will develop more power, it has little effect on the life of the saw. Porting increases flow, this flow allows the saw to get rid of the exhaust gasses more efficiently meaning less harmful heat. The carb isn't pumping harder, all you are doing is sucking more air through the carb so more fuel is sucked up in to the carb choke by venturi effect - I have known ported saws develop air leaks and survive where a standard saw may well have failed just due to the extra fuel/oil the saw is using due to the flow. I have saws out there some 3-4 years in professional use that I have ported and still working.

That damage looks like circlip damage. Is that piston aftermarket and has the circlip on the other side of the piston got two legs on it as I would say one has broken off the damaged side and wreaked havoc! Quite often it dings the transfers but you often get away with little damage elsewhere. You can grind these dings out if you know what you are up to. Just done a Makita 7190 like that - most would have written it off:001_rolleyes:

Modifying a two stroke engine so it has different running characteristics, generally more noise, more power and more torque. It can involve widening and reshaping ports, adjusting port timing, adjusting squish, opening up the muffler, making changes to ignition timing and a few other things.

Because a couple of customers asked me to, seemed rude not to:blushing:

[ame] [/ame]

You are welcome

If the saw is running well then there is no need to change the carb, a new carb kit may be a good idea but make sure you make a close note of the order of the diaphragms and gaskets. I do the carb work I do as I know that if I don't, I will get a call in a month or so saying the idle is wandering so I change parts that will give 2-4 years further service!

If you are comparing motorbikes then look at the X7, GT380, GT750, RD200/250/400, YPVS250/350, YPVS750, Gamma 250/750......where are they now.....they are four strokes, two stroke bike technology has almost died. Water cooling is just an answer to getting more power reliably and won't sort emissions, this will come from the electronics, injection systems, and engine design. We are in a transition between the old technology saws in to a new era of new technology, a bit like when cars started using electronic ECUs. They are now soooo much more reliable but when they go wrong:thumbdown: The manufacturers will get to a point when this new technology is reliable, it is just taking a bit of time and frustrating all of us. Ultimately, battery power will win the day, it is just time before the manufacturers get a light motor and light battery pack that develops silly HP and bang goes your MS660/661! When this happens, I hang up the spanners for the last time and head to the deck chair in the back garden:thumbup:

Well it is with me now, TBH, it will probably take forever to find out what the issue is and be nothing but ball ache as many old machines are but I will open up the box and leave hope at the bottom of the box in case I need it later. Just hoping the issue doesn't involve port durations changing due to the shorter piston:001_rolleyes:

I can't tell what condition your carb is in and if it has any faults so can't recommend what to do. I very rarely swap carbs out and if I do it is generally down to the carb just being old and worn. If your carb is running with a very steady idle and good pickup then if the diaphragms haven't been changed for years then fit a new carb kit. if the idle is varying and you are getting bogging or strange pickup issues that can't be tuned out then depending on your knowledge and skill, you can fix or replace if you have little experience.

I once worked on a 350 that wasn't oiling, it had got so hot it had melted its bar mount and had to grind out the oil ways with a dremmel and carbide burr. As adw says, the oil pump seems to be working but from oil isn't flowing from the pump to the bar oiler hole! Does it oil if the bar is left off?

The MS200T is one of the best, if not the best top handled saw despite its few foibles. It is a good saw to work on, parts you need for a rebuild very much depends on the condition of the saw. The seals go with older machines, clutch springs are a common one, chain brake flat spring and tie bar, the sprocket wears as all do, recoil pawl, Kill wire, AV mounts, there are a couple of components in the switch mechanism that can break and the impulse line, manifold can leak plus the carb does have some well documented issues but all are fixable. Oh - chain catchers are always missing! I do all these checks as part of my rebuild regime, many of them are tricky for a newbie to deal with and the saws I have had in as failed repairs by their owners, have ended up being stripped right down and built right back up again so the cost saving wasn't there. Like most specialist repairers, you are paying them for their years of experience and ability to make a wreck reliable again. Good luck with your project.

Take it apart, clean it, inspect it, change the broken parts and it should then work as it should!