spudulike

Ah, did wonder why it had landed at yours:sneaky2:

Sounds about right on the parts breaking, one full of crud sounds muffled and slow, a clean one cracks on with a nice clean "Clack" If the handle is flapping, the flat spring has gone or is strangely missing as on one I just did:confused1:

That cant be one I have looked at in the last three months, they always get blown out?????

The backfiring is a retarded ignition timing, if it isn't the flywheel key, it will be the coil causing the same issue!

Circa £15

Another way to look at it is that if your MS660 has just been repaired and it is needed for a major job, the cost of its repair will pale in to insignificance to the costs lost if it fails because the repair job was ineffective. That is loss of earnings, wages paid out for guys standing doing nothing, rescheduling work etc etc. This post perhaps puts more on the actual repair cost rather than the cost of failure after repair. From what I have been told, my local agents make my business pretty easy for me. I have just had a saw in that the owner has spent a small fortune on it trying to fix it. I turned it around, found a couple of fundamental faults, checked it over and returned it 100%. It would have been far cheaper just to give it to me in the first place.

That's my women not my saws:sneaky2:

But GK is one busy man running a successful business so he is doing something right and repeat business proves this. Thinking about the £12 per hour - one or two returns, issues that need to be absorbed rather than charged and bang goes any sort of profit. I think the expression is being a busy fool and have been there before and is never good. I used fixed rates often and you win and lose but it works for me with the sort of repairs I mainly get.

As I said, if the saw is backfiring, it will be the flywheel key!

I think the people who think £12 an hour is a lot of money are forgetting that the workshop will need public liability insurance, tools, equipment, time to order spares, time to invoice, time to pack goods, time to book couriers, a book keeper, solvents, cloth wipes, latex gloves:blushing:, lighting, heating, phone, internet, premisis, marketing..........etc! It all costs a bit and it ain't £12 hitting the bottom of your pocket!

That will be a leaking or stuck needle valve in the carb, strip it, clean it, reset the metering arm and if it still leaks - fit a new full carb kit!

From what my customers say it appears their main concerns are the inability of their local dealer to understand the issues their machine has, long lead times and the ability to "knock the nail in" first time and every time. Whether you charge a tenner or £50 per hour doesn't tend to be high on the list but to get back a fully working machine that will do a year plus service without further issues is high on the list. I know GK is damn busy and from what he says, he does the business and knows his stuff. My own business is going the same way, I don't need to charge as much as my overheads are lower but my work ethic is similar, I expect my customers to walk away knowing that they have got damn good value for money and I am earning a living. Your order-book says it all and repeat business is a view of how good a job you have done! £12 an hour......either it is a fiddle - say a job takes double the time it really takes just to get the customers in or make on spares i.e. spark plug or filter at £5 each or the OP wont last long!

The fact it idles means it is getting a low level of fuel through, when you open the throttle, the fact it dies means it isn't getting enough fuel for high speed running. Check the fuel line for splits (really need a pressure gauge), check the internal gaze strainer in the carb is clear of woodchip (most likely fault) and if this doesn't work then give the carb a good clean and perhaps fit a new carb kit or bend the metering arm slightly away from the body of the carb.

The OP said the idle was running fast so unlikely to be a clutch spring unless he got the symptoms wrong.....which may be the case, and wouldn't be the first time an owner has given me duff info.....you know who you are:001_rolleyes:

That's pretty much every machine & for a safety device, this part of the machine never seems to be maintained. I keep the "bones" in stock as well as the flat springs. Both generally give up the ghost after long term abuse. Oh, also keep chain catchers in stock as MS200s never seen to have them in one piece. I guess you climbers are just at one with danger and what the heck to a flailing chain or a sluggish chain brake:001_rolleyes:

That's damn right:thumbup:

Seals tend to go gradually, the symptoms you describe are more similar to a big air leak. I would check the impulse line (rubber tube under the airbox part of the handle above the fuel cap) is still connected and if OK, make sure the manifold isn't split. One test, get the saw idling on the ground, hold the top handle and, pushing the engine unit to the ground with the other hand, pull the handle around a bit and if there is a split manifold, the idle will change. If this is all OK, it may be carb issues but these are generally changeable and stop the saw revving well.

Ah 3120, that makes sense now- all you do is pull the clutch off and stick your finger over the hole under the needle bearing - this seals the valve for the pressure check. It should seal on vacuum.

I can't remember the saw etc but there are two tests to be carried out on the crankcase. In normal running the cases see both vacuum and pressure and this is why you test for both. Splits show up more under pressure but seals can fail on one test and be perfect on the other. The testing you can do depends on the equipment you have.

Why's that.....never had a problem:blushing: apart from dents in the ceiling and parts all over the shop:001_rolleyes: Some people won't be told!

If it is producing backfires, big bangs through the exhaust, then the ignition timing is retarded so the flywheel key or ignition unit are faulty!

Yea yeah, yours is far bigger than mine old boy:001_tt2: Think the OP has pissed off:001_rolleyes:

I was making an assumption the bloke probably had inner tube off a bicycle as most cars don't have them now, guess it could be off a motorbike. I was just answering the question as to why ADW didn't like the use of inner tubes and the most logical answer was the thickness. It would work for casual use but utter rubbish for everyday use. Not seen a tractor inner tube! My wife, on the other hand, is still looking for her right wellie:sneaky2:

Just get a smaller cheapish smartphone, put Gorilla glass on the front and one of those rugged cases - like this 2in1 Heavy Duty Grenade Grip Hybrid Rugged Phone Case Cover For HTC Desire 620 G | eBay I did this on mine and it has survived a few drops etc