spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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You will probably be better just drilling out the hole and retapping the thread to the original size in the muffler, the one in the crankcase go ahead with the helicoil. For the record, there is no need to remove the bracket to muffler screws to remove the muffler!
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5mm X 0.8 on the support bracket where it fits to the upper dog mount, the ones that go in to the cylinder are 6mm. I think the ones that join the bracket to the muffler are M5 and if they are then they will also me M5x0.8mm.
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The wire in your pipe cleaners have scored the piston, chances are that it will not cause much of an issue as the ring has probably not ben damaged as it is harder than the cleaner. Just smooth the piston lightly with some very fine paper - finishing paper would be ideal.
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If it is dying as soon as the throttle is touched it may be that the L screw needs a tweak anticlockwise to richen up the idle. If you can get high revs out of it by feathering or pumping the throttle then the high speed needle is probably OK. The L screw sorts out saw performance from idle up to around 4500rpm and then the H screw kicks in. The fact you can get the saw to rev out means the H screw is probably OK. Often these small engines leave the factory pretty lean and then stop like this. You may need a specific screwdriver to adjust the screw - splined or "D" shape.
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The MS200 is complete and running well. The MS660 that came in late last Tuesday now has a new crank, mains and piston so complete rebuild and was up and running Saturday evening. Not bad for four days:thumbup: The owner was a bit concerned about getting it back so pulled out a few stops and good parts suppliers was the other key factor. He should be happy:thumbup:
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I would take it back to the service agent and ask him to take a look at it again. If it came back to me and I had missed it then I would charge for the springs and probably pass on the labour - that is if that is the only fault!
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Looks very dodgy to me, there is no Highbridge in Devon and no Husqvarna dealer!
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Idiot used pipe cleaners as a piston stop
spudulike replied to EairthTree's topic in Maintenance help
Oh dear, I feel failure I'm the air, when you mess up the rebuild just send me the bits:001_rolleyes: -
You won't need to play with the H screw as it will make no difference to idle speed on this saw. I would suggest stripping the clutch and drum, clean and lube it, fit new clutch springs and go from there. If the idle has changed and there are no reasons for it then it may be an air leak so go very carefully. If you can't get the idle down by turning the idle out around 1/2 turn and there is no reason why the idle has changed (previous fiddling/stuck throttle mech) then it points to an air leak and if that continues, the saw will go pop. Are the high revs still OK or does it scream a bit? Is it still pulling OK in large cuts?
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I know, I would rather inspect, measure and deduct that the parts are OK, won't last much longer or are shot. Expensive ones always get referred for approval with an explanation of what I think. It is simple but just like to make sure there are no surprises and the customer has the treatment I would wish for myself! I do good cost effective repairs, matching the age and value of the saw with the amount it will cost and the condition it is in.....all very simple in my eyes:thumbup:
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Always a good idea to snap some shots on a mobile phone as it has got me out of trouble many times:thumbup: Anyway - here is the IPL, it shows where the spring fits, just follow the assembly lines on the mechanical drawing and hopefully it will help https://honeybros.com/media/Brands/Husqvarna/PDFs/T540XP_Parts_List.pdf
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Idiot used pipe cleaners as a piston stop
spudulike replied to EairthTree's topic in Maintenance help
Nah, think I will give it a miss as most use piston stops or rope and gather they work OK:001_rolleyes: I would take the top end to get rid of all the debris, the steel bits would cause havoc with the bore and go very carefully refitting the rubber boot, I usually fit the rubber part and then the plastic support and clamp - it saves misaligning the impulse nipple. -
MS660 on the bench at the moment, big end failure so have pulled the bottom end apart. The £300 price tag of a new crank is too much to bear so am fitting aftermarket, new OEM bearings, new Meteor piston as it got a bit of damage from the debris. Should be back together soon. 346XP in, seized badly but the bore has cleaned up nicely and am waiting for a new piston. It needs a new manifold as the impulse connector nipple is split. MS200 for rebuild and porting, the owner listed a raft of parts he wanted fitted but am not fitting and am saving him money as none of them needed replacing and don't throw money where it is not needed:thumbup:
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Oh Damn:sneaky2: that Adw may be right then:lol: The blue coils are limited but only seen one fail and that had been struck by the flywheel. You have the earlier 372XP, damn good machines and port up very nicely!
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Idiot used pipe cleaners as a piston stop
spudulike replied to EairthTree's topic in Maintenance help
Pipe cleaners:confused1: Not seen that before! -
No need to apologise, I have had 3-4 fuel lines faulty and no coils on 372s bar one with a strange ignition advance. In fact, I test fuel lines now as part of a port or service BECAUSE I had a saw play up after I had serviced it because of the fuel line had a split. It may be the coil but we shall see, not going to fall out over it that's for sure. I would check all the other possibilities before buying a new expensive part. Hope the owner sorts it, split fuel lines are bad news!
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Be interesting. The Husky coils tend to be fairly reliable in my experience. Is it the XT older version or the newer Xtorq model? The later has the decomp sticking out of the top cover. If it is the earlier one, what is the colour of the coil? Just asking in case it isn't the fuel line. Does sound likely though!
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Not if it is a small leak and in many cases goes unnoticed. I usually plug one end and test it without removing it using a pressure gauge. You may be able to pull it through a few inches and then put some water and detergent on the compressed bit that sits where it has pushed through the fuel tank and use a bicycle pump or blow down it pulling it about a bit. The pressure usually opens up splits quite well. When the saw is running, air is often sucked in to the carb rather than fuel as it offers less resistance. Had a bad one in for porting a week ago! Fitting a new one can be a mare and make you feel like a gynacologist:001_rolleyes:
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I would go very carefully on this one as it may be a split fuel line, I have had a few go on 372s especially the Xtorq ones and it occurs where the fuel line pushes through the fuel tank. Symptoms are a good idle, will generally rev up fully but lots of bogging in bigger cuts. After a stint of this, the plug will be near white in colour! If it is this, it is possible the piston will fry hence the warning. It may also be fine woodchip in the carb internal gauze strainer. Other than that, sometimes coils fail, sometimes completely and other times they act like the limiter is stuck at mid revs. Do make sure the coil is set up with the correct gap and on the correct part of the coil.
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Last time I was there it looked like a lunar landscape, not too many trees especially on the south side! You sure this is a wise move!
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The screws that retain the engine in the plastic case have a habit of shearing - a bit of a sod to drill out but doable. The flywheel also can catch the casing just behind it - hence the two washers, each one costs £150:sneaky2:
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Yes, it was, think you owe me around £230:sneaky2: Ah well, that's life:thumbup:
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You know when you pull the fuel line off a carb and it pisses out a fair bit of fuel? This amount of fuel will find it's way in to the crankcase if the needle is shot or leaking and when you pull the saw over, the fuel will shoot up the transfers and straight in to the combustion chamber where it won't compress like gas as it is fluid and more dense! The breathers in many saws only allow air in but hold pressure and wont let air out hence the pressure I mentioned earlier.
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I would personally pressure check the carb and make sure the needle holds at least 15psi pressure. It may just be a worn needle valve, a badly adjusted metering arm, baggy diaphragm or dirt in the needle valve. With 365s it is best not to use the decomp valve, they don't make massive compression and using the decomp doesn't help especially when cold.
