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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. spudulike
    Bit of white spirit/WD40/GT85 etc, work it in with a paintprush where possible and then use an air gun on it. Removing the muffler and doing it from the front and back and then the flywheel side tends to get a lot out. Just make sure the crankcase cavity is plugged with paper roll after the cylinder is off, I HATE it when kit comes in with this not done. A bit of woodchip in the main bearing can knock them out if not cleared!!!
  2. spudulike
    It is as good as they get, original decals and very little use!
  3. spudulike
    No, it is remaining as it is unless the guy I purchased for makes noises:001_rolleyes:
  4. spudulike
    Been on my bench for a bit of a clean up:sneaky2:
  5. spudulike
    They are pretty good machines TBH, a tad heavy but well put together, vertically split alloy crankcases and a flat bottomed cylinder. It sort of all went downhill from there! Got one to refurb next week:thumbup:
  6. spudulike
    I am quite tempted to do some tuning on it once it is going, looks like a weird construction with the cylinder head coming off and the crankcase and lower cylinder being on piece!
  7. spudulike
    Knew Wes would have had a few of these Macs:thumbup: Here is the massive muffler that they fitted on these saws in the day, just got to understand why it kicks out sparks and flames and sounds like thunder in bowels of hell:lol:
  8. spudulike
    Thanks, always a pleasure, look after it now, they don't like trees bouncing off them:blushing:
  9. spudulike
    Our postmans great but not sure about that GardenKit dude:001_tt2:
  10. spudulike
    Nope, the starter on the one in your pic is on the top of the saw. The housing is still used on my saw but is just empty. The model is a 1-40 I believe, 80cc and still has a weird old spark plug, nothing like I have seen before! Built between 1958 and 1960. McCulloch seem to have built loads of similar machines during this period in the 80cc size, not sure why but they did. It has a big old Tillotson HL carb and looks a bit like a powerboat engine bay under the air filter. I will rebuild the carb again and see what the issue is and if I can get it going reliably, may get round to fully refurbishing it.
  11. spudulike
    This one has cock all to do with me. I may be tight but this one is just pure stupidity! It is one that came in on a 020T Stihl that the owner wanted porting:001_rolleyes: what a life:sneaky2:
  12. spudulike
    Here is one from the heyday, around late 1950s, shows that McCulloch didn't just produce Chinese home owner kit! Manual oil pump, a purge valve from the crankcase to oil the chain, a stupidly small exhaust that kicks out sparks on full tilt. Not managed to get this one idling nicely yet, feels like a fuel shortage but not bad for a machine that is older than myself!
  13. spudulike
    Once the top lobes of the sprocket have worn a bit, the sprocket should be replaced. This is a picture of a slightly worn one:sneaky2:
  14. spudulike
    Bugger that Ed, I remember you buying it, the cases should really be fitted as a pair! Are you looking at doing the work yourself? Just done the same saw for someone else that had done similar!
  15. spudulike
    Just the thing for the new series of Robot Wars:thumbup:
  16. spudulike
    Ah, our work here is done:thumbup:
  17. spudulike
    Hmm.....is that a standard air filter:sneaky2:
  18. spudulike
    They tend to split the fuel hose where it pushes through the ceiling of the fuel tank, worth checking along with the gauze filter in the carb under the pumping diaphragm (not the metering one). Both would cause this fault and is fuel starvation.
  19. spudulike
    And don't we know it. Having spent £14 on 346 seals only to bugger them on insertion, the language turns a bit blue. A good selection of tools, tubing, big sockets etc. The 346 has a half lip around the bearing almost forcing the seal in at an angle......Grrrrr The worst ones are the ones that you have to force the inside face over a lip whilst inserting it in to the recess. There are manufacturers tools do help or the inventive will just find a suitable method that works but that is what makes some better than others and guarantees that the internal spring doesn't come out on insertion. I got the proper Stihl removal tool off ebay half price, they do come up sometimes but are useless on MS200s:001_rolleyes:
  20. spudulike
    As others have said, lending out kit can be at worst dangerous to the uninitiated and at best, you tend to get a mullered machine back - best to do it yourself and get them to pay you in beer, wine or Wonga. The issue you have, as others have said, will be either splaying of the bar rails which can be closed up as Alec has said (don't know where he got that tip from:001_tongue:) or the rails can be uneven. The latter is a case of putting the bar in a bench vice and putting a steel rule across it at various points along its length to make sure the rails are square. If they are not square, I grind them on a bench grinder with the foot set at the correct angle and then finish with a dremmel but you do need to make sure you have enough rail depth to cover the driver and support the chain side plates on the rail itself.
  21. spudulike
    As the previous post or woodchip in the oil pump inlet!
  22. spudulike
    Awl or woodscrew will do it if you don't have the correct tool!
  23. spudulike

    Efco mt 6500

    spudulike replied to elder's topic in Chainsaws

    If the saw will take full revs but not idle, and a new carb fixed the problem for a short time then I would say the issue is with the low speed section of the carb. The carb has two separated systems for delivering fuel at high and low speed. Your low speed part has probably picked up some crap possibly from bad or dirty fuel. The carb needs to be stripped down, the limiter on the L screw removed and then some carb cleaner used down the L screw hole and in the metering section of the carb. It is worth looking at the jets through a magnifying glass to see if there is any debris in the hole in the middle. The fact both carbs have failed suggests that your fuel or tank or fuel filter aren't up to scratch and are depositing particles in to the fuel system. An inspection of the gauze strainer will confirm this.
  24. spudulike
    What Ian says, I have seen low hours 362 and 261 with big clutch drum issues. Both manufacturers share the same problems and Husqvarna seem to be ahead of the game IMO!
  25. spudulike
    I think there is a tendency to rely on the computer to fix these saws and leave the wealth of knowledge obtained from years of servicing on the back burner. I had a 560 in a few weeks ago, similar fault and turned out to be a pierced pumping gasket. The mind set on the saw was plug it in and lets se what we get - the answer was a clean sheet but a good old fashioned carb strip showed the fault and it is up and running not needing the new top end the guys local agent had said it needed! At 100 hours am guessing it is still under warranty? If the dealer can't find the fault using conventional fault finding methods then the only thing left is the autotune so a new unit will be needed. I trust he has worked through the NORMAL methods of stripping the carb down and inspecting it. I believe the fuel tank breathers were an issue on these saws but only done a few of them so lack any in depth knowledge of them!

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