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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. This thread is nearly at 500,000 views, not bad at all:thumbup:
  2. spudulike

    Sat Nav

    Looks similar but hasn't got traffic warnings. Mine must be around 4-5 years old. Factor in a carry case - you can probably pick up something like a camera case from Poundland for....£......you've got the idea:lol:
  3. spudulike

    Sat Nav

    Garmin are good, things like lane control where it recommends keeping left or right, speed camera warnings, traffic conditions etc are useful. See if you can get free updates but TBH, nothing too much changes year on year. I have a Garmin Nuvi - lasted well!
  4. Thanks Joe, I got there in the end, I had nipped the HT lead and it was earthing so was an easy fix and all is good but if you don't want it, next time you send something in, stick it in the box and I will knock a few quid off the bill:thumbup: Thanks as always
  5. Busy as ever....560XP that was supposed to need a new P&C, found slight air leaks on the seals, dodgy throttle cable and the main cause, a perforated pumping diaphragm. All sorted now and working fine. MS261, quick tune and yet another clutch drum kit, bearing and oiler arm. HS81 - carb rebuild as the needle was leaking. KM56 - throttle cable replaced. MS200 - the air filter cover screw had been forced and the debris fallen in to the engine knocking out the top end so rebuilt it with a new P&C - checked the rod was straight and all good. 395Xp - carb rebuild and re-tune 056 - full strip and rebuild, new ignition module fitted. KM56 - not driving the head. Melted bush so new one on order. Still got a load of kit in to fix including a couple of MS200s for servicing and porting, a 262 that wont run, a MS660 for porting and a 346XP for rebuild.....and more!! Mad busy at the moment:thumbup:
  6. Drama over, got the 056 running, HT wire caught between two covers and earthing it, now fine:thumbup:
  7. In case you have missed my earlier cry for help, I have an 056 Stihl in need of a flywheel as it has no spark and a new ignition unit hasn't cured it. It is the later SEM type so part 1115 400 1208 which is the breaker-less one with the sealed unit coil. If anyone has a scrapper and can't remove the flywheel, I am sure we can come to some sort of agreement! Will pay, not looking for a favour.
  8. Got a 056 in, no spark, have fitted a new ignition unit and still no spark. I am guessing the flywheel magnets have lost their gauss so need a new one - part 1115 400 1208 and is the latter ones with the SEM electronic coil. Happy to pay or barter with saw servicing:thumbup:
  9. You said it and to make it worse, it had the bar and side cover hand painted:001_rolleyes: I can laugh about it now!
  10. Had a 039 in a long time ago, it had been seized so fitted a new piston etc and it ran but not too great. Found the carb was a bit worn so fitted new and it ran a lot better. Compression was never great - 150 tops but adequate. Well......this saw came back, reset the carb and back out, failed, came back, went out....well, you have the picture. This saw was the spawn of the Devil and nothing would sort it. I felt guilty that it wasn't right, that is just the way I am, I don't like taking money and the customer not having a working saw so had it back after I ported a 372 for the fella and said it may be a long project. Well - I tore in to it this week, measured the squish, stripped it down again, found a slight abrasion to the piston so smoothed and re-honed the cylinder. Everything else seemed OK. I compared the roof of the exhaust port distance to the squish band and it is significantly less than other cylinders I had to hand so now understand why the compression wasn't higher. Found the flywheel had been rubbing on the plastic behind it so eased both plastic and flywheel to give clearance. pressure and vacuum check. Stripped the carb and there it was. A tiny sliver of wood stuck in the low speed jet pickup:001_rolleyes: No wonder the damn thing never idled well and was a bitch to start! The carb was a new one so never really checked it thoroughly - my mistake. Went at a big lump of conifer, lots of noodling and it works fine and starts with no effort at all - months of hassle over:thumbup: I won't charge, I got paid for the first repair and that usually does it on 99.9% of machines and will take this one on the nose. Just glad I got it sorted at long last.
  11. That's different from using one without qualifications being the law. Now you are talking about H&S, good working practices and employers liabilities in regards to employees safety and wellbeing. If it were illegal, I would have been hauled away years ago:blushing:
  12. Aw bugger Andy, now you have opened the flood gates....do you want to know how much those things cost me:001_rolleyes:
  13. 0.0375mm - I think a gnats cock is wider:lol:
  14. Good to hear from you again Rich, sounds like you have been through the mill. Hope you pull out of the dive you have got yourself in to and get some happy times in the future. All the best bud....
  15. You really have too much going on that may be wrong and without any logical way of ensuring issues are ruled out, you will find it a time and money consuming process trying to fix this saw. The fact the saw is revving high and the hanging on to revs are classic air leak issues. Crank seals are unlikely as it is unlikely they will leak enough air to cause symptoms so severe. It is more likely that the intake boot is split or the impulse line has come off/split. Personally I would pressure and vac check the bottom end ruling out any air leaks and then concentrate on the carb if there are none. If you don't have the kit then make sure the impulse line is connected under the air/carb box just above the fuel cap and if that is OK then strip the top handle off and check the inlet manifold - the underside often splits. If these items are OK then it is likely the issue is with the carb but it sounds like you don't have much of a clue on how to adjust one so it may be a long process. It is easy to bugger up carbs if you don't know how to do the repairs and will usually end up in frustration!
  16. Quiet saw.......bloody tree hugger:lol: glad it is OK, not got the time for much play at the moment, steady flow of work coming in!
  17. Hope you are using the decomp! Those pillars look a bit soft, probably worth pulling the saw lightly to just before TDC and then keep pulling rather than snatching the start against the starter mechanism like we would normally do! May get a few more hours out of them then - sounds like that compression has improved some:thumbup:
  18. Next time you roll by, no problem:thumbup:
  19. I have done the full monty on the 560xp including pop up piston and it is still running around 18 months later!
  20. Yup, you should read the post Med put up a while ago saying the saw was a bit underpowered , thought I should address this:thumbup:
  21. About 12500rpm which is the maximum on a standard machine but on a ported one, is fine and will run easily at 13000 with no ill effects. Glad you like it:thumbup:
  22. The main thing is it cost bugger all, you have learnt a bit about these saws and it will earn you money in the future. Whats not to like:thumbup: Well done!
  23. I have been porting a 372XP recently and had some interesting figures from the exercise. The saw was already wearing a jungle muffler which is basically an oversized 346XP exhaust so a large outlet on top and no internal baffle. The saw, before any porting and wearing the performance muffler the saw gave cutting figures of between 13.36 and 14.48 seconds. After porting, using the same bar and chain the saw gave 11.10 to 11.48 seconds. If you take the two best cuts pre and post porting, the improvement is 16.8% if you take the two worst figures pre and post, you get 20.56% improvement and if you take an average then you get 19% improvement. The 372XP is a good machine to port and it shows that you gain 16-20% from JUST the porting. It would be interesting to see what the muffler gives and would suspect at least 15% so am pretty happy with that and it is nice to get some quantifiable figures on the table for reference. We think that there may be a little more to be had from upping the max revs from 13500 to 14000rpm as it was loading up a little in the bottom of the cut but am very happy with where this has ended up.

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