spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Should be OK but text me nearer the time:thumbup:
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Is that like a Chicken Royal? Heard that the burger cuts better than many cheapo saws:sneaky2: I guess it is near new so not had any seize issues? If the saw is gutless on low to mid revs, richen up the L screw, if the thing isn't holding any sort of power in the cut then you could richen the H screw and as long as it still holds revs when the throttle is held open under no load, it should be OK. It may just be the saw is just a bit under powered or a Royal turd......I don't believe they smell:lol:
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Depends on how much the dishwasher cocks up the saw:001_rolleyes:
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Thanks Andy, always a pleasure, wish all saws were as clean as yours!
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I always enjoy the feedback, I don't get much of a chance to play with them so always glad to hear how the porting has worked:thumbup:
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Just had a guy say his ported 372XP is "AMZEBALLS" and he can't put it down....I think it is safe to say he is a happy customer
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Just strip the carb and clean it and reset the metering arm Quite often it is all they need!
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I think the "Viz take" hits the nail on the head, after leaving a desk job and starting a more active job fixing saws, I have shed a stone and eat more. Funny that eh!!!
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Sounds like lack of fuel as ten pulls is a lot on full choke. Check the thin plastic pump diaphragm is against the main body of the carb and the spacer gasket is between the pump diaphragm and the cover. Check the fuel line isn't split and the filter is in good shape. Check the gauze strainer is clear, they often get a fine clear haze of scum in them that looks fine but stops fuel and you need to remove it and view with a magnifying glass to see it. Other than that, check the spacer gasket is between the metering diaphragm and the body of the carb and the metering arm is set high enough and the spring is set correctly.
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Pop the muffler off and look for scoring to the piston, should be obvious if it is damaged. The blower will need the metering arm lifting 0.5mm or a new diaphragm in the metering section of the carb going on your description.
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Good to hear it is behaving now
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Should be ok but you may experience a slight drop in compression.
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That piston crown looks like it has suffered bad detonation, usually caused by too much ignition advance. The rest of it looks OK from the images viewed on my phone - piston looks like it has a bit of blowby on the rings.
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If the crank shaft has been damaged and the area around the clutch needle bearing is now undersize, there isn't much that can be done.
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If you get the same basic carb body, you may be able to swap the throttle and choke valves and rods over. Probably worth boiling the carb in a US cleaner before lobbing it!
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Makita spares are never that easy, where in the country are you?
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If the carb has been strpped and cleaned then it may be other issues with the engine rather than the carb! Valve clearances, carbon, poor compression or leaking valves are a few pointers!
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You can use acid or alkaline solutions or 180 grit lowering to 400 grit if the transfer is minimal. You will still need to use abrasive paper if chemicals are used but it is easier on the plating.
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And that is good advice, had to do it on OEM parts before now!
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One last bit of advice, make sure the ring ends fit under the retaining pin well and the ring end can be pushed just past the centre of the pin so the ring ends are a snug fit with the pin. Often the ring ends are poorly formed and there is bruised metal or swarf around the retaining pin. All these faults will do you no favours!
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7 splines sounds like they just pick up on seven points of the spline rather than all of them so probably both would work. On the muffler, are you looking at aftermarket or OEM and looking at opening up the existing hole or letting in a new outlet pipe?
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Try 5 -7 thou min and it should be fine, sounds like this is your trouble though. It is just the risk you get on cheaper kits and need a bit more care in checking and fitting.
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It is possible the rod is bent, did the piston slide up and down freely with no rings? Does it slide easily with rings? Does it only get tight when bolted down? Does the cylinder rock from side to side if the bolts are loosened up and the flywheel is pulled over gently? What brand is the kit? I would only trust one brand of aftermarket kit 100%!
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We used battery grease cartridges that you attach to machines that unload over a certain length of time. This was mostly power presses and assembly machines but they worked well.
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Two options, use a thin legged puller as I don't believe the flywheel has any tapped puller holes, the other is to leave the nut 1/3rd off, pick up the engine with the flywheel and belt the nut with a copper mallet. You can tap a screw driver in behind the flywheel bit go easy. If it doesn't move, try a lighter tap from a steel headed hammer bit go easy on it. All flywheels stick like this!
