spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Nope but the whiff of Nitro is an acquired taste:thumbup:
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Interesting that the 254XP is the best, it seemed pretty wild after it was done, sort of Lada to Lamborghini in 8 hrs:thumbup:
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029s are clam engines and are therefore not the easiest machine to do too much with. Probably a muffler mod would be the simplest way forward on one of these saws unless it is coming apart for another reason.
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Of course Matt, when you send the next one down:thumbup: Just don't complain about the compression:001_rolleyes:
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You're special Joe.....think they have institutions for special ones like you:001_tt2:
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We could tell you but we need the funny handshake first:sneaky2:
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Poor darlin:001_rolleyes: Group ported hug:thumbup:
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Not one of mine but pipes can add a considerable amount of go to a saw. I do have an expansion pipe and an old ported 066 and one day...........
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I believe it is possible with a P&C change but isn't my area of expertise. My rule of thumb is owners of old saws should be able to maintain them just because they can be a drain on time to maintain and part finding.
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Interesting post on my porting thread, but............ The seals are more than likely these - 9640 003 1980 2 WDR DIN3760-BS18x30x7 Oil seal 18x30x7 The rings possibly - 1106 036 9000 2 Anlaufring Check ring Difficult to tell but probably best to see where the parts are the right diameters to the crank and fit in place on the parts list!
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You can't rebore the cylinder but you can often clean off the transferred aluminium and then lightly hone the bore so it will accept a new piston. I have done hundreds of machines with around 95% success with the rest just being too scored or damaged rather than failing after repair!
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The trouble is, since the 70s, oil technology and strokers have moved on a fair bit. I am not disputing the original data and it is a pity two strokes are rarely raced now otherwise there would be more accurate info on this.
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Bloke in my village has a Einhell hedge trimmer and it has been back twice and cost him £60 so far not including the cost of the machine. At some stage, he will have spent Tanaka, Echo, Stihl, Husqvarna, Makita sums of money and still have unreliable Chinese trimmers.
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I think Einhell are worth a look at!
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Castrol R.....luvverly:thumbup:
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Using that theory, if you run a 20:1 mix, you are likely to lean seize the engine:confused1: The real theory is you are keeping the same amount of air and are replacing a small amount of fuel with oil. The oil will help lube the engine and we are talking small percentages and is unlikely to make much difference to the tune of the carb. Leaning the engine usually refers to when the amount of Fuel/oil is reduced giving a larger percentage of air causing a significant rise in temperature due to the extra air making the fuel burn hotter and faster. In your example, you are keeping the same ratio of fuel/oil mix and air and it is just the ratio of fuel and oil that has changed!
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I personally think that 40:1 makes sense as modern saws use less fuel, less fuel means less oil so if you pop more in, it will do no damage and may help the engine stay cooler, keep bearings in one piece and help stop seizure. It is my personal opinion and is what I would recommend but what do I know:sneaky2:
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All the Autotune/Mtronic saws MUST have semi or fully synthetic. Putting red through them increases the risk of seizure and bearing issues. The conventional non autotune/strato saws will run on Stihl HP red and be OK if you need to run it out. The tech - the autotune and strato saws use a lot less fuel, less fuel means less oil so you need to use the higher quality oil....simple!
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What saws/kit are you using? Autotune & four stroke really needs semi or full synthetic!
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The Chatsworth one is worth a punt. Usually these things are full of overpriced poop but this one had gifts from a few pounds upwards and ended up treating the Mrs when we went a few years ago!
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Christmas raffle 2016
spudulike replied to biggarlogs's topic in Arbtalk Christmas Charity Raffle 2015
Yes, in planning and have offered my services again! -
I could bend that flappy bit off and charge you for the benefit Seriously, I would have to square the hole, make sure the surrounding metal was up to it, fabricate a patch that is a close fit and than braze it all around and then do the muffler mod. It would cost as much as a new part - it is knackered, just go and buy a new one! Chances are the repaired one may fail around the joined area!
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It is fooked....and for Christmas, Ian wants a..................
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I am in North Herts so if you need saws, trimmers, strimmers, blowers etc fixed and your local guy is a bit...iffy then swing by for a chat:thumbup:
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No sense of humour:001_rolleyes:
