spudulike

Mmmm, you pays your money and takes your chances. Got a good selection of splitters and pullers - saved me hours:thumbup:

Been on a 560XP this week, the ring had snapped and left the bore with a whacking great gouge up the middle of the exhaust port up to the combustion chamber:thumbdown: I sourced a competitive OEM cylinder and on stripping the saw down, found one of the stuffers was very loose. The option was rebuild or leave it and for the sake of a few hours, decided to strip it down. I have one of the new pullers for the 560XP, having the stuffers stops you using the conventional "C" type puller that slides in to the crank cavity. Having stripped it, I found the crank was a loose fit in to the inner race on the clutch side. Bearing lock will sort this, the bearing on the other side was a bit loose so am fitting new. The play in the stuffers seems to be down to the thrust washer part of them and a bit of adjustment has made them a much better fit. The rest of the stuffers are in good order so am refitting and reckon they will be fine. Nice pullers:thumbup:

Personally I hate em as they are buggers to work on if you need to get to the bottom end/cylinder but are relatively strong plodders as others have said!

Not done one of these but did a 350 some time ago. Forget back pressure, it isn't needed on this type of muffler. The 350 had a CAT and I pulled it out and it made a nice difference. I can't say if yours has a CAT but the weight will tell you. If you can get a 1.1mm gauge chain and bar for it, run it as it will help.

The wife says those tight fitting dog coats calm them and reassure them with thunder, crow scarers and fireworks.

Sounds like Stubby is getting the sharp end of your failings:sneaky2: 357 - Leaks tend to be splits around the impulse nipple or the boot not fitted correctly. The boot MUST be put on by itself and has to align with the impulse hole in the cylinder correctly, you then push on the plastic clamp along with the metal clamp and then clamp it tight. The method of detecting leaks doesn't work, the reason is the cleaner absorbs heat like crazy to make it evaporate, this takes the fuel vapour and turns it to fluid and tends to kill the engine. You must use oil or some other less volatile fluid - I have been there before and seen the results. If you are fixing kit professionally then you owe it to your customers to use the correct kit so pressure and vacuum check rather than a "Cheap fix". Back to the issue - liquid gasket can work, I have also done a few fixes that help with older but good manifolds but am sure you can work out similar methods:thumbup: Best thing to do is to make sure that you actually do have an air leak and in this area!

That's good to hear:thumbup:

Interesting use of a drill:001_rolleyes:

Let's get a pic up then:sneaky2:

Oh dear:001_tongue:

It is possible the gauze filter is clogged with fine wood chip, if it is one of the 2011 - 2014 models then doing a bit of work on the muffler and the flywheel usually makes them closer to the MS200T, done many conversions and it works! "Easy" depends on how good someone is at dismantling and rebuild of assemblies and fault finding!

It comes from sniffing two stroke:lol:

It is alien, who says they are 4' tall, green, big eyes and only have two fingers on each hand. The invasion has happened and looks insignificantly like a very small green willy but will soon grow to be a bloody big green todger:lol:

Yes, really an 066, many years training has given me a keen eye on such things:001_tt2:

It is good stuff, easy to cut to size and fit. I also use it to braze metal and is cool almost immediately after use!

Yes, fully agree, Stihl 066, stripped a bit and diagnosed by the fella as low compression......measured 160psi, ended up being the central sparkplug electrode had broken and was touching the earth electrode:001_rolleyes: Another expert!!!

Perhaps we could send out a search party, I know this bloke called Dr Livingstone, lots of experience:lol:

I have an original Stihl one from a working blower - £40 delivered if interested! PM me if you want it.

Here you go - http://www.motoculture-jean.fr/upload/pdf/070.pdf

If it pulls 150 - 160, you have problems with your trimmer, if it pulls the same 100, you don't!

Probably a muffler mod only would be the best bet as the ignition mod used on earlier models would possibly mess up the auto tune. I can't say what the gains would be but think they would be worthwhile. Best let the warranty run out before modding it though.

I would suspect that your compression tester is for car use only and not be suitable for small bore engines. Have you a good working saw with good compression that you can measure and compare the compression?

From experience, Sainsburys Gel is the dogs - Sainsbury's - Please enable cookies or JavaScript Have used a few gels and this one doesn't clog multi blade razors and cleans off the razor easily unlike many! Best stuff by far and good value!

Is this 5-7 pulls with the throttle open or partially open? What gauge was it measured with? It all makes a difference.