spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I would whip the muffler off that or look down the spark plug hole and make sure the piston hasn't nipped up. These saws tend to go a bit fast and an air leak like this, can cause lean seize. As ADW said, the connector needs to be plugged - I tend to remove the union, tap the hole and plug with a short bolt if the cylinder is off the saw but the cap would be the simplest option. Whoever had it before you was a bit of a cock and bodged up the conversion from auto decomp to manual valve!
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Not being funny but it would be useful to know what sort of use (daily, weekly, monthly) it will have, any preference to manufacturer and sort of budget you have. Anything from a 365 (65cc) Husqvarna to a MS660 (95cc) will do the job, one will cost circa £275 and the other £500+
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I would agree and a ported MS200 would spank it. I was impressed with the low down grunt from such a small saw though. Rare that a small engine will pull from idle with conviction.
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I was referring to my hedge cutting long reach and 1metre trimmers and not a reference to chainsaws - I have done a muffler mod on this 360 saw now. Reckon the heat thing is probably the restrictive exhaust and the carb being tuned mighty lean due to emissions targets. The one I did was made to run very fat and then dialled back in and that really worked for me! Owner not picked up yet - will see what he reckons once he has used it!
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The 357 and 372 have similar gains to be made. I have done both for a local guy and one week he prefers the 357, next week it is the 372! Just choose the earlier 372 as they left more on the table to be tuned on that saw. All the 3 series Huskies are a dream to port:thumbup: Just finished a 346....mad pickup and a 395....lots of work but very nice:thumbup:
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I have used the disc cutter cylinder on a 372, ported an all and.....the combustion chamber is different and pulls less compression, the standard cylinder is better IMO, a lot more compression and that means more torque. Your 372 is legendry, you won't get better!
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MS200T, loose flywheel nut, damage to the retaining thread and looks like the flywheel has taken a heavy knock - two fins missing:thumbdown:
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Funny you say that, I think most of my customers have the same opinion, the local dealer has been advertising for a mechanic and apprentice for 12 months!!
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Around a tenner each way and it is possible that the job rate may be better value or carried out better than the local repair shop!
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He is describing the removal of the KAT which will derestrict the muffler. Some are simple and some are impossible but it is a known improvement. It is also possible to mess the engine up if the carb isn't readjusted.
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Joking aside, I get everything from the last off the production line through to real old scrappers that need a complete and full rebuild. Some are back up saws and some are primary ones to be used all day. The owners all say the same old stuff and we have all heard lots on here about it. Very few are wet behind the ears type of guys with most being experienced operators or climbers. I guess what we are discussing is similar to the mentality of changing your car every two years or getting it regularly serviced and looking after it. Both will work and get you from A-B.
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If you tell me how often you want a break, I will drill the appropriate diameter hole in the tank so it drains in that time. I would advise you are not tempted to smoke whilst using it and would advise not lighting up if you get fuel on you:001_rolleyes:
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I will add it to the five already here:thumbup:
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The issues that are generally heat related are low compression - you really need around 150psi+ when cold as it will fall by 10-20psi when hot. Not sure how you are measuring it but do it cold and then hot and let us know the readings. The other one is coil related. Either the coil is breaking down with heat or the gap is too big and as the coil gets warm, the spark weakens/fails. Had a MS460 like that once. It could be a few things but checking the compression and spark when it has died are two logical things to try. The tank breather, if blocked, can cause the saw to die after a few minutes running as a vacuum is produced in the fuel tank as fuel is taken from it and once built up, stops further fuel being pulled through. There does become a time when it is best to get rid, strip for spares, ebay it or get it to someone who may have more luck with it.
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Just a couple of opinions, we all have them and do what we think best at the time. Doesn't mean one is right and one is wrong, just what works for you in your own situation. Even new kit breaks down you know!
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Judging by the amount of MS200s I get in, those liking other top handled saws are in the minority. Not sure what the issue is on the age of the saw, I know many climbers running 020Ts and love them as primary climbing saws. Sure they are old but if they are well looked after then they do what is needed!
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Time to give it to someone who can fix it I think:sneaky2:
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Take the side cover off every month and check for wobble on the clutch drum bearing. If you are just toooooo lazy to do this then if the saw starts stalling with the chain brake on, do the check then but it may be too late to save the oiler worm arm that usually is taken out with the common wobbly drum bearing issue. It is just one of those things - every six months or so, just needs sorting!
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Thanks Andy:thumbup:
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Think.they have all had an early night! Thanks lads:001_rolleyes:
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Basically, the fuel breaks down the lubricating properties of the oil and will eventually cause the exhaust side of the piston to heat up excessively to the point it melts and deposits the molten metal on to the bore, holding the piston rings in their grooves causing loss of compression. Nothing too serious:sneaky2:
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The joys of spell check.... refurb!!! Modern technology, what can go wrong.
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Try it on a pro chainsaw pulling 14000rpm and see how it goes!.! The kit you have mentioned rarely hits much more than 10,000rpm and is under less load!
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I have done full refund on hundreds of these saws. Most owners love them and the ones without 200s want one! The average repair bill is under £200, the worst under£300. Worn cranks are about as bad as it gets, carb issues get fixed in with the cost of the refurb apart from the cost of spares. I believe there are a few happy customers of mine out there:sneaky2:
