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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. Strange way of using the mower, my wife suggests that he has piles!! Glad the Webbs is up and running. All relatively alike in their own way. I have an Atco Royale a bit like that Ransomes, paint is shyte but the rest of it is built like a tank! just make sure all the drive chains are well lubed in chain oil each use but I guess not your concern now!
  2. Probably best to plug it in to CST and see what the carb and AT are doing. Possibly a bit of crud in the gauze strainer, possibly the diaphragms need replacing. Worth changing the fuel filter and also checking the piston through the exhaust port to make sure it is clean although Aspen should have avoided and nip ups. Probably best to PM ADW and see if he has time to look at it. It will be a postal job but he knows his stuff. Last thing to check are the clutch springs as if they are weak, that may be why the saw us stalling. Cleaning the air filter....must be an oil based fluid and a blast through with a compressor.
  3. There should be very little "in and out" movement. Sometimes, so little, it makes removing the circlip a big tight. The drum should have minimal wobble on it if you place a finger on either side of the drum and push alternately.
  4. Something isn't right if that is the case, perhaps the pinion has worn so the arms are sitting below the rim of the drum but something sounds to be out. I have only seen arms missing the drum on machines with significantly worn clutch bearings typically 261s and 362 Stihls.
  5. Two things to check, make sure the clutch drum and bearing are in good order as they do suffer a bit of the MS261 issues. If all OK, swap out the solenoid as this is likely to be the issue if the rest of the machine is in reasonable condition.
  6. OK, by cylinder, I mean the cutting cylinder not the drive roller ...just to clarify. Looking at your machine, it looks like the drive roller and the cylinder are engaged with the loose belt being tensioned by the way of a movable roller pushing on the belt to tension it...same as the drive roller in my Qualcast but my cutting cylinder is engaged with a centrifugal clutch which is different to yours. If either the cutting cylinder or drive roller are engaged all the time, you would normally back off the tensioning roller which looks like you have a slotted hole to facilitate this and if you can't, you need a longer drive belt which may be as you suspect, an incorrect belt. There may also be cable tension adjustment to control the drive on and off control as there is on my mower. .
  7. Faced with that, I would remove or loosen the belts and make sure the cylinder and the drive roller both turn easily. I would then tension the cylinder belt to see if the motor will spin it and then do the same with the roller. If an incorrect belt is fitted, the belt will slip round the pulleys so the drive can't drive either the cylinder if drive roller. On my Qualcast 17 ( bit like a Suffolk Colt) the tensioner is engaged to tighten the belt to get if to drive. The cylinder is in a centrifugal clutch. Not had a Webb machine in yet...Atco, Suffolk and Qualcast only.
  8. I think they call it learning. Some try and give up but other more tenacious types don't give up and keep going and learn for the next time, getting better all the time.
  9. Possibly knocked the spring out on fitting.
  10. Plum Crumble, the king of crumbles....with custard of course although you could add a blob of ice cream as well....nice!
  11. I use tote boxes with lids. They are nylon and pretty tough. Got 10 of them off eBay for £75 secondhand ...pretty good deal and most of my workshop is in them now and neatly stored on heavy duty racking. They are from Alibert and look like this: -
  12. I thought it had passed a pressure/vacuum test after the clutch side seal was replaced or did you cock up the fitting? The one on the flywheel side is generally, pretty reliable. Is it leaking badly as most of the time, small leaks....where you lose pressure or vacuum over a couple of minutes, don't really interfere with running...but, they DO need repairing as it will get worse and slightly old fuel or a carb set slightly lean may cause the saw to go pop.
  13. A bit high at 20 thou but not massively bad. If you have been rubbing small areas of the bore with wet and dry, you can cause small cavities that can kill the compression. You should be 150-170 PSI on a decent 372XP. You can drop the base gasket and seal with liquid gasket. It is a simple performance enhancement and you will maintain enough squish clearance. It won't sort the issue but it may make the saw usable.
  14. I was floundering to find something to post as this thread is a load of pollocks, just a load of carping on about fish...again. Reel it in lads...especially those with a chip on your shoulder.
  15. What does.."Petrol 220t replacement" mean? The 220t is battery with the common Stihl petrol top handles being the MS200t and the MS201..or the MS192 or MS194....or the MS150
  16. Looks like he has done a private deal as the listing has been pulled!
  17. Currently £1800.....that is bonkers...even by my standards of loopy!
  18. Sometimes I can liken this forum to being in a pub and keeping well out of the way of the leery kid in the corner that has had a sherbet too many and is beginning to kick off.
  19. Yes, the cases need splitting....good luck.
  20. I was just about to paste the same...a good offer from ADW!
  21. Gut the muffler and fix the thread. It will wake you up in a scary way!!
  22. Colour blind? That is clearly purple
  23. Looks no worse than some of the Travelodges I have stayed in! The immigrants are supposed to be escaping persecution, war or death so billeting up on this barge seems like a good alternative to that. Sure is better than my Grandfather had when he was holed up in a trench in France during WW1! If I had nothing and were escaping similar, I would gladly accept this as accommodation.

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