spudulike

Well that smells of BS to me. I love the way some hide behind the technology like it has some sort of magical ability that mere mortals just can't understand or comprehend. About all they can do is apply the latest firmware, it will run on all previous firmware if matched with the auto tune/coil correctly. They can reset the saw back to default if major work has been done on the saw, view fault codes or do some very basic tests and that is about it. The actual auto tune program or the saws OS can't be changed like the dealer is saying! The basic spark, compression and fuel tests are still very valid, even on the latest machines! The fact it will run for a few seconds after priming shows that the carb isn't able to pull the next charge of fuel in to the carb. I would suspect that the metering arm is a little low, the needle valve is stuck or the diaphragm isn't able to exert the correct force on to the metering arm to allow fuel in to the metering part of the carb........ possibly the carb pump solenoid has failed and that is able to be easily tested!

Have you reset it according to the owners manual? Not had to on the ones I have done but.......there you go!

Just drop the base gasket, the extra compression makes up for the shift in timing figures!

Sounds like a lifestyle choice to me

That motorised scythe would have had it if the old boy had kept it going. Swap the engine out for a 30HP kart engine, that should do it!

I will give it a go. You get better strimming with a good length line so you just need to get the engine going as well as it can and then experiment in thick grass with different length/thickness line. I am wondering if a head with four lines would improve the cutting over two!

How about sticking a 1m hedge trimmer on a pole - should be effective or does it have to be a strimmer? Lawnmower on a tractor - flame thrower

We had this discussion a while ago, firstly, it is NIKASIL and the emery will have similar abrasives to a hone - Silicon Carbide/Carborundum and you simply do the work and then clean thoroughly with solvent and compressor. Anyone who says this can't be done - go talk to the guys I have rebuilt seized saws for still using them years afterwards! I have used emery paper on localised damage and to smooth bevels, the hone will give a nice finished surface but don't go too mad, an engine doesn't take a view to how it looks but does note how well mating surfaces join together.

I rarely sell machines I have refurbished but have been working on a 2009 MS460 that has been stood up for the last five years after being lean seized. You can see the original piston in one of the photos! I have done some porting on this saw, the muffler hasn't been modded although it could be and the ignition has been advanced a little. It now has a Meteor piston in it, the cylinder is fine and compression is very healthy. The saw has been pressure and vacuum checked, the carb has been stripped and checked and it is very clean. It won't be going at a bargain price as it now owes me a bit but if you are looking at a saw that will pull like a train and keep you in business then PM me for a price.

Just caught up, you should be looking at the most powerful option out of the box and then port, muffler mod and use a head with extra long thick lines. I say this as you will need to keep the thing bang on the powerband and cut as much as you possibly can - perhaps make a special head with wire cable lines so you are less likely to loose one and cock up your chances. Failing that - drive a steel stake in to the scythes path - he won't be so chipper when he hits it

Possibly someone using a piece of wire to unblock the holes and piercing the membrane

Looks OK from what I can see.

I would guess Poundland or Primark

I was saying to measure the ring in different areas around its circumference to compare the thickness but was trying to say the thickness between the outer surface that contacts the bore and the inner that butts up to the bottom of the piston groove and not the height of the ring as if you laid it flat on a table! Ring wear will give too much end gap and will effect compression. Nikasil can wear due to ingress of fine woodchip, seen a few but not common.

Don't know what you are doing to them, I have found one or two get blocked and you get a vacuum in the fuel tank but it is pretty rare and the breather assembly is used on most Stihl equipment albeit with the pipe connector on the back on the MS200T.

A new cylinder and piston will give 170 - 180, a reasonably well worn cylinder will give 150 and is a little low but acceptable. Dropping to 125 is a bit low but probably OK for now, it is normal to get a 20psi drop cold to hot. Ported, it will pull 200 - 220psi due to dropping the base gasket!

No typo on my side???

I thought the breather was located firmly under the air filter back plate to the left of the carb and there is no way the item can be damaged and was unlikely to leak but what do I know!

You can put the rings in the bore and measure the end gap plus measure the ring thickness/depth (where it contacts the bore and the inner surface) in different areas of the ring to check for wear then replace if necessary. I would try to fit a Meteor piston or a complete top end if the bore is worn - they typically fail near the inlet port! If the rings are significantly worn then fill your boots!

Adjust the tappets, they always lose their setting!

Highly unlikely that the rod or crank is bent, they don't go that easily. I would usually remove the flywheel and clutch, pull the plug out and the saw should turn over easily. Fitting the wrong seal can cause the crank to be stiff but would be at all crank positions. If you remove the top end, it may stop the issue and if it returns when the top end is refitted, you are getting somewhere. A bent rod becomes obvious if you lightly undo the top end bolts so the cylinder is loose and turn the engine over slowly, holding the top end lightly in place. The top end will rock from side to side of the rod is bent. Most bent cranks I have seen have become obvious from the chain moving up and down excessively on the bar of the chain is loose, visually wobbly when the crank is rotated or impact between the coil and flywheel plus the engine will feel tight. Are you sure the cord was removed fully and the seals were fitted correctly?

If there is no external breather and the Cap hole is the only way for the tank to breath, the hole must allow for air to enter the tank as oil is used otherwise a vacuum will occur - swig in a bottle of beer and you will get to a point where no more beer will come out until sir is allowed in to replace beer swallowed!

Good luck with fitting a non standard coil, anything can be done but get it wrong and the saw will either be very boggy or pre ignite and cause serious issues. Close the flywheel to coil gap up to almost nothing, remove the kill wire, take the plug out, earth it on the cylinder away from the plug hole and pull it over hard and view the plug in subdued light. Many fail to pull the saw over hard enough and diagnose the wrong fault!

You can go off people!!! He has been quoted and will see what falls out of the tree!

I've seen it, usually found on saws that have been standing a while and the oil has thickened on the cylinder walls. You should try pulling a 298XP over or a vintage McCulloch!