spudulike

On a new saw, full compression won't be there until the cylinder and piston have bedded in. Decomps are actually graded by the size hole in them, the smaller the hole, the less the decomp effect. A hot saw will pull over easier than a cold one and one that has sat a while and has a nice coating of oil over the bore, left after the fuel has evaporated, will need a decomp valve plus manufacturers fit them to protect the starting gear as well as making the saw easier to pull over. You need a decomp on some saws but on many, it is best not to bother.

The picture doesn't show it but the centre section of the flange goes in to the underside of the piston around an inch.

No and definitely NO, it is shaped to go in to the underside of the piston and would have zero bracing effect from its design. It is to do with making the saw a little cleaner and has nothing to do with the strength of the cases.

Lightly hone with new rings, it will help them bed in.

Probably just flooded, pull the plug, turn upside down, pull hard a few times, let it dry out overnight, refit the plug and try again but no more than 5 pulls on full choke and make sure the fast idle is engaged.

Ah, Nitrous Oxide, back to the drag racing days, thought about that one but is just one of those projects waiting for a rainy day! That saw also has a nice erection......Oh er

Got two, nothing to do with Arbwork, one is a Whites IDX Classic (American) and I have...Modified it....yup, you can do it...call it porting... and the CScope CS4PI which is a completely different beast. The Whites one will discriminate but is pretty poor on wet sand, the PI ones are great on wet sand with very good depth but have no discrimination. The CS4PI does have good depth and isn't messed up with mineral content in the soil etc - both will detect small steel items to a good depth! The Garrett hand held is really for bouncers finding knifes!

Yes...time traveller, should have been 2019...not tried the ignition on the Echo, it would need a before and after timing on a set piece of timber.

I was discussing this with a customer and comparing the Echo response to the melting side cover issue to the Stihl MS261 issue.....quite a different approach, a bit like Toyota being totally transparent with their throttle issues on their cars....seems to be the Japanese way and for one, I appreciate that sort of behaviour!

I believe so, March31st 2018, the time goes forward by 1 hr .......cant wait

Huh....I believe your post is asking what I have done the most of on a 150....full port and muffler mod but those ports are tiny!!! I have often thought it would be nice to do a full pop up piston and go mad on one but not got the time for it!

If you get some "work" done on the 150, it starts getting very interesting! I have started recommending running a MS200 and MS150 instead of running two MS200Ts or similar.

I have an issue with this "bad batch" thing. I have fitted new splined drums on a few MS261s with new bearings where the crank was serviceable and they have been knocked out within 6 months. I really don't get this "bad batch" thing unless they had a bad batch that lasted around four years!!!!

Yup, a coarse grub screw pushes in to the end and the tube is then fed through the hole in the plastic wall just behind it in your pic.

That is some erection Wes, the length, the girth, the ..........erectness Seems almost pleased to see you!

I did say......

Yup, Echos are funny, they seem to always need the muffler modded and a bit of a carb tune and bingo...different saw. I guess it is because the Japanese seem to use CATs rather than strato type technology. People ask me what they are like and I always say, they seem a bit lightly made but seem relatively strong and typically.....well....JAPANESE!

That 560 was pretty much scrap when I got it.....lasted a few years but don't know how much work it did though!

I will send up those carpet slippers and this months edition of Gardners World......what happened to the Matty I knew, looks like you have got a bit soft ooop north The older 362s had similar clutch problems to the MS261, I don't know what Stihl did but have just scrapped another MS261 this month, 6 years, in good overall condition and little use! Not seen many 362s in TBH. The M tronic gives it a bit more go but have never felt that these saws were a belter. A bit bulky and flat but....they all cut wood!

Thanks, all cleared up now. I always had them down as cast and he statement threw me. Glad all is cleared up now.

I think either tapping the hole oversize or using an insert rather than a helicoil if the hole is badly worn could possibly do it. The issues look to be the fact the hole has gone and the raised turret looks to have gone so it will need a bush of some sort. Also the screw that holds the handle in place has some sort of screw thread rather than a typical screw thread......good luck! If that lug goes...it is one expensive repair and a short bottom end may be the solution.

On the latest saws, one half was pure magnesium and one half (I think but not100%) was Magnesium alloy. You have to be careful with magnesium as it can go up in a big way. I remember the early days of magnesium motorbike mag wheels, basically they were catching fire in accidents where the bike burnt!

Yes, EPA again

All non strato/autotune saws are on borrowed time so if you are looking for a 395, 390 and any other saw or this generation, grab it now as these saws if looked after, will be banging away for 15-20 years!

Something nagged at me on this one. Couple of things - when I look at pistons, I see casting flash, slight unevenness in inner surfaces or casting witness marks and then machining to the critical surfaces and parts. The piston body shows obvious signs of casting - the machining will be common to all pistons. I then remember my days on bikes and being able to fit Wiseco "Forged" pistons and then thought, if all pistons are forged, why make such a thing out of being forged. So...basically, cast is molten metal in to a moulding cast and forged is battering solid metal using heat to soften and "forge" shape - like a blacksmith making horseshoes! I then Googled it and most pistons are cast but the top end ones for racing or high revving engines are forged.....ah, reconciliation in my head once more Sorry but your statement is wrong, perhaps you have come from only using race pistons - come across them in bike and car track racing and drag racing then assumed....... No offence meant and don't intend any ridicule but this one just "niggled" at what I understood to be fact!