spudulike

The one I was working on was like a boomerang. I think in the end it came back to a load of sawdust in the fuel tank, flushed it out and a new carb did it in the end......it depressed me tbh.

Normal - check the fuel line, the carb for the normal stuff, the drum/sprocket, needle bearing, oil drive arm and oiler. Just clean it up and check as you go.

I think this bit of kit allows dealers to appear to be some sort of saw magicians but in reality, as long as it goes through the cursory checks, they tell their customers that nothing is wrong and it stops them using their grey matter to diagnose the faults in the traditional way. The diagnostic is a bit wobbly and there are only three bits of info it lists that can be construed as useful.

Unlikely any oil will cause a saw to leak from a crankcase join. You may be able to sort it by doing up the crankcase screws either side of the leak but don't tighten too much.

This will show you the parts - looks like you are either missing a rubber seal or it is out of place - http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna 254.pdf

What you could do is stick in an underrated power system and spend the savings on a fire extinguisher and a pair of trainers! I love it when guys ask a question and argue when they don't get the answer they desire...no disrespect to the OP whom I hope is looking for a logical explanation and think he has it now!

Never seen that before.......they don't half go, one shoe shot around 20 yards away and the drum span down the drive like a scalded cat!!!!!

Had the first courgettes, tomatoes, lettuces and the cucumbers have been the stars of the crop, had around 6 so far, small ones but really good flavour. Got the runners beginning to form beans now, won't be long!

I also like to fix things rather than binning them but often find that I am spending hours fixing a customers part with the charges being close to a new part so it makes little sense not to purchase a new part. Hope it all works out, don't want that part to fail!

I think the Parts Counter are about right. It is likely the caliper is pitted and hat has taken out the seals. Just fit nice new callipers, bleed the system and bingo, brakes that work.

That was someone getting clever with the ECU programming..... no steering wheel activity="special" environmental programming, steering wheel activity = just get on with it performance setting. Would have been quite clever if they had got away with it! Nothing to do with OBD2 though!

Yes a coil change is fine but not a carb swap, that needs CST! Us scummy independent self employed guys are not worthy

From memory, I thought al the earth connections join on the top coil connection and this wire goes from the top coil screw and ends up joining the engine just behind the flywheel. I try to avoid these saws, bad experiences on them!!!! Not sure why you have so many earth connections on yours, one should earth the coil laminations and the other provide an earth to the kill wire....you seem to have two earth connections and a spare one???

I never understand how you can purchase the test kit and then not get the access to the access code, why just not sell the test kit in the first place - found the same on Stihl and Husqvarna, both the same. Same happened with car manufacturers with OBD2 ports, they were protective over their diagnostic systems but didn't get away with it as they were told by governments to standardize and make the technology widely available. Means I can find any fault code on my car with a £3 module and a £1 phone app.....ahhhhhhh Fixing it is always another issue!!!

These saws had either a permanent oiler - on all the time even if the chain was stationary or one like on most modern saws where they only oil when the chain is spinning. The oiling has been good on all the machines I have tried. The oiler is adjustable so try it on maximum and if that doesn't work, purge the tank, clean the pickup filter and pump and check the oil pinion.

It will soon be appointed dealers only so they will be your only place to get work like this done which will be an interesting one as all I hear from my customers is they lack knowledge and have a stupidly long turnaround on repairs. Up to the manufacturers to make their rules and if they don't work.......???

Yup, you can't just slap on a new coil on these AT machines, you need the CST (Common Service Tool) software and interface to link the new carb and coil with your saw!

If the failure is just down to the fact the key on the flywheel has broken then as long as the keyway is clean, the crank taper and the flywheel hole is clean and grease free and it is well torqued down, there should be no reason for it to fail again. Just check the flywheel to coil gap after torqueing it down as it may change a little. I don't know why the original would have failed, sometimes, excessive use of a rattle gun on the clutch can loosen the flywheel or it may have been taken off at some time and not tightened sufficiently.

The moulded in key can shear during starting if the flywheel isn't torqued down correctly, just make sure both the crankshaft and flywheel jointing surfaces are clean and grease free then I usually crank the locating nut down pretty hard. The only exception is if the flywheel central boss isn't solid and can crack under extreme pressure. If you do a load of them, you know how hard to torque....I am sure ADW (Mr Torque Wrench) will give you the correct Nm figure!

Most will make a vac/pressure connector out of a spark plug with the centre knocked out and a pipe let in. You can use the impulse line on some saws or modify a sealing plate if it suits.

Nice picture, have you been watching a Youtube "drawing with charcoal" vid Reckon that carb is about as old as you!!

If the metering arm is level with the base, as soon as it is pressed, the pressure on the needle should be released and fuel should flow. Easy enough to check, just connect your pop off tester or Mityvac to the fuel inlet, pump it up and lightly depress the metering arm, you should get an immediate loss of pressure. If both carbs had the same fault, it is possible the issue is somewhere else. Did you pressure and vacuum test the complete inlet side up to the point the carb is joined to the engine? Those plastic inlet manifold parts can crack with age! The carb should be set so you can just see the slightest bit of light around the throttle plate, with it set like that, unless the throttle is being kicked open by faulty throttle rods etc the only reason the saw will race is a relatively large air leak as the carb should be shutting off fuel and air and a bit of extra air will make it race and a lot of air will stop the saw completely.

Level with the floor on the metering arm. If the diaphragm has a slot cut in the central nipple/stud, make sure it is hooked on to the metering arm if it has a forked end. If it is solid with no slot, just fit it normally. No need for any sealer. Try 1.5 turns out on the L screw and see if that works. Fit a new fuel filter if not done already.

You were a lot younger.......sorry!

I made a tester....Gunson lo gauge for pressure and a brake bleeder for vacuum, it worked reliably but the Mityvac I have now is easier. I often use the lo gauge on pressure testing big air leaks as I used a bicycle pump and it puts a lot of air in making it easier to find big leaks. Unless you are doing this as an on-going hobby, semi professionally or professionally/commercial, a pressure and vacuum tester is a bit of an indulgence but it is one of the most used bits of kit in my workshop, great on engines but also carbs and fuel lines!