jrose
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Everything posted by jrose
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Lovely, many thanks!
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Hi all, Just on the off chance - if anyone within a 50 mile or so radius of Gloucester has recently cut any Walnut, or is planning to in the near future, I would be very interested in buying the timber. Must be straight grained sections, anything over 6" long and straight considered. Diameter not so important as long as its more than 6" or so. Must have some decent heartwood colouring! Cheers Joe
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I think most people will tell you 550xp and with good reason, they're a very good saw. I personally would throw another option in there and say investigate a 545 - I have one and love it, same saw as 550 in nearly all regards, without the higher revs but slightly more grunt for crosscutting, and cheaper!
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I've climbed on a weaver for 3 years, tried a tree motion and found it horribly uncomfortable on the gentleman's area! Didn't like the butterfly either, the only other harness I liked was the Tree Austria one but probably just going to stick with a weaver for now, can't see any real benefits in anything else to be honest
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I think the 562xp uses the large mount bars, so interchangeable with 372 etc... Whereas 560 uses small mount bars for 346xp and similar as well. Could be mistaken though
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Top handle, 550 if sectioning lots of 15" stuff, then 365 with 20", anything more and its the 660
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Looks nasty, glad you're all OK!
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Hi all, Just found this, never heard of them before - anyone tried it? I still haven;t got round to making/buying a pulley saver, quite tempted to try this one with a Pinto or something. Frictino - Friction and Cambium Savers - Ropes
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Try putting carabiner in the middle hole as opposed to the top, this helps move it away from the hitch slightly
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I'd go against the general trend of replies on here, and go for Oregon every time. Semi chisel on the ground saws, full chisel on the top handle - I've got a few Stihl chains kicking around as spares that I've barely used, really didn't like them!
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There's an efco dealer in the village who I buy files, chains etc from if you want his number?
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Hi all, I quite fancy a pulley saver as my old cambium saver failed its LOLER the other day. I'm going to try to make my own, so I need to buy a Pinto pulley (unless there's a better option?). My question is, the new version of the official Pulley Saver has a normal Pinto - am I better off buying this, or the rigging one? How easy is it to get something to fit through a normal Pinto, but still retrieve? Also, if the pulley is being threaded into the prussik (as opposed to spliced/tied direct to pulley), do I still need the spacer? Thanks a lot Joe
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I started with a distel and liked it, now trying out a vt at the moment.
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When I first started climbing I assumed the prussik cord was the same, and brought some from local climbing store only to be told that it was far to thin.. Think it was about 6mm or something, most arb prusik cord is at least 8mm and most are 10mm
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Glad its not just me!
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I just get black screen saying blocked in your country on copyright grounds? Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
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I usually go for "suuuummmmmeeeeerrr time, and the living is easy" myself, but each to their own! Well done mate, glad it went well.
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Don't know about that one, girlfriends parents have recently got world pay zinc which hooks up to your smartphone so you can use it anywhere you have phone signal/WiFi if that is any help?
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I got a second hand Komatsu Zenoah backpack off ebay for £150 from a company that deals in ex council kit, been absolutely brilliant! It's definitely worth investigating other brands than Stihl or Husky, especially for something like a blower IMO
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Make sure you get all your cuts right before pushing it off, a bit you didn't cut properly can peel down the stem possibly getting caught under your rope - not very pleasant at best!
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I always used Stein boots and never had a problem while self employed, I'm now an employee with issued Haix Protecter Pros and they seem fine as well. Probably best to choose a pair with a decent heel that will sit OK on the spikes
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Depends if it's someone who understands how to stack brash at the chipper, deal with the customer should they come out, see any potential problems and deal with them - or a lad with his hood up, earphones in and texting?
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I wouldn't say chains have a high risk of snapping - they can, but its not a common occurrence in my experience! Check chain for any signs of damage when you sharpen it and you should be fine. You're more likely to get overheated, dehydrated and tired in a jacket, especially if you're not used to using a saw. This makes you more likely to lose concentration and make a mistake!
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I wouldn't worry about getting a chainsaw jacket/coat, I have yet to see anyone ever wear one for work! I think the risk of overheating & exhaustion far outweighs the benefits for most work situations.
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Is it a vertex or the other one, alveo or something its called? Got spare sweatband for the alveo one if that's any use to you?
