jrose

When you set up your page, what name did it ask you for exactly? Guessing it's something like PMHTreeSurgeons?

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Still not there...

And the same to you

Says profile unavailble to me... Mine is http://www.facebook.com/JRoseTreeCountryside yours should be very similar but with whatever your name is after the forward slash I think...

Something I haven't been able to work out, if I have unlimited data allowance does this still count when I'm using phone as a hotspot? Or am I open to charges then? In answer to the question never asked, don't plan to - I don't want to give the impression I'm going to spend all day tapping on my phone/laptop instead of working! Would only ask if I needed to find local dealer or something for emergency bits, even then it would be absolute last resort.

Chainsaw gloves are pretty crap really in my experience, I don't know anyone who uses a saw regularly who chooses to use them - they're expensive, cold, wet, slippery, no protection against thorns etc... Get yourself a decent, warm pair of normal work gloves would be my advice, keeping your hands warm and dry is more important than cut protection. If you need chainsaw gloves for the assessment, get a cheapo pair and chuck them into the back of the shed once you've passed. At least, that's what I do...

No, don't know an Oli I'm afraid, it's an Andy

What size? Know a chap who has a compact tractor and winch, he's not on arbtalk but can give you his number if needed.

FS450 are OK, but in my experience tend to have a couple of issues - if you get one of these, the screw which holds the handlebars onto the plastic likes to snap off in there when you adjust handlebars, so get a couple of spare screws for your toolbox! Also heads seem to break quite easily, but maybe I'm just too rough.

I'd go for a 40cc or bigger, with a mulching blade. I like Kawasaki as I am quite tall, and the shaft on these is longer than usual so no stooping, but others will differ! There's a chap on ebay called harrythecat who has a lot of ex council, EA etc kit for reasonable prices, I brought a couple of saws from him and they've been good. At the moment there's an Echo which would do the job for £195... harrythecat178 | eBay

2 pairs of hiflex I acquired free, and a pair of SIp freedom I paid actual money for when I did the climbing course. Prefer the SIPs really, but they are a bit heavier than the hiflex...

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Here's mine - body was off an ex army 109, plywood greedy boards is a temporary measure going to get some ali boards made up that can be easily removed as and when...

where are you?

IMO if you're actually going to make this into a vehicle as opposed to a computer project, lose the tool lockers altogether and just have a standard pickup as the base model. I'm sure tool lockers are nice on a Transit or Iveco, maybe even a single cab 130. But on a 110 you just can't afford to lose the space. Saws on the back, a good chain to stop light fingers or even better make use of some of the wasted area on the standard pickup and make some saw boxes into the wheel arches, before and after the wheels (here's a technical diagram of what I mean ). Even if you lost the ladders and moved the roller doors forward, you'd still gain a bit more load space. Also, those black bars on the back - what are they for? Are you going to be doing that much off roading you need a roll cage, it looks like it would be in the way when trying to load timber/brash from the side. Don't get me wrong, I'm trying to help - I love projects like this just got my 110 almost how I want it now! Cheers, Joe

No real load area - I assume from the pics the bed would be a similar size to a 90 pickup? Ok for a bale of hay, but you won't get many logs/chip on there. Could you get away with losing the access ladder behind the doors? After all can always stand in bed or on bonnet to load if needs be. Maybe some sort of changeable bar at the back, so when you need to carry longer ladders/hedge trimmers/sticks you can have it supported over the rear as well? Also I'd suggest tailboard should be full width rather than the standard land rover design, mine used to have one of these and it was a pain to empty. Other than that, looks good

Personally I wouldn't worry too much about chainsaw gloves, normal work ones are fine. Boots trousers and a decent helmet is a must though. If you can make it to one of the shows this year, that might be a good place to get a deal on some of the kit...

Bo in the woods cutting Ash, only had him a month but he's taken to the arb/forestry lifestyle like a duck to water

Cheers chaps, looks like another visit to a garage first thing in the morning then...

Hi all, Need a bit of advice please! I had my Landy 110 converted to a tipper before Christmas, using a secondhand pump & ram off a transit. Yesterday I went to tip it and nothing, dead. Went back to the chap who did the work for me, and he reckoned the solenoid had gone after some prodding with some magic electrical device. He couldn't do the job, but recommended a commercial vehicle garage. Went there, and they straightaway said they would bypass the solenoid with a piece of wire, and did. Got it home - now it tips, but sounds like the battery is flat? Eg slower than it was before, sounds "strained" if that makes sense. Also, once it gets to about halfway smoke starts coming from the wire they bypassed it with. Was bypassing the solenoid a good idea? Or should they not have done this? If it should have worked, why isn't it very happy? Wrong wire guage used? I don't do electrickery Cheers, Joe

Umm well just did a quick google images and couldn't find a clear pic... Whereabouts is he? I'm happy to pop it in the post on the off chance, not sure where else you'd go for kawasaki spares I'm afraid.

This starter any use?

I got a dead kbh33, not sure if it's the same starter? pics coming in a minute when I remember how to do it...

A-Plan is £615 for me - 25 years old male, 4 years no claims, no speeding tickets etc. NFU wouldn't touch me as there's no engineers certificate for the tipper, and no one else was interested either.