richy_B
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Everything posted by richy_B
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Fuel filter is a good place to start - cheap! I've disconnected the battery and will leave it off for 30 mins. See if that makes any difference....
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Hello all, Had an issue with the Same today (Dorado 86). Stop light came on as well as flashing 'MEM' . The MEM indicates memory for the engine rpm, as you can set an engine speed and hold down MEM and it saves it. The manual says the light is either on or off though, not flashing - which I assume means trouble. The manual just says contact SDF when the stop light is on. If I turn it off and on again the MEM comes back after a few seconds and the STOP after 20 seconds or so. Only a mile from base so I got it home, apart from the warning lights it all seemed absolutely normal. Any thoughts?
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Does your Facebook business page bring you in work?
richy_B replied to Steve Bullman's topic in Business Management
Nail on the head there. Our local FB groups are full of tinkers. -
Similar stories. Our neighbouring yard is a highways contractor who runs several 3cx's, 32t grabs etc. They initially laughed at the MO as being a bit of a toy until they saw it in action. Its not going to be able to, nor is it intended, to compete with a 3cx for example- what is does is the work of 10 guys who did it before by hand or barrow.
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Sounds like the MO faired well though. I got mine stuck a few times in deep,clay based mud. I doubt anything with wheels would have done better. Had to use the bucket and telescopic to push myself back out. Self recovered without any help from any other machine. I have a set of 4 waffle boards now though.
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With any piece of equipment it is good to give it some time to warm up. I dont do anything in particular with my 7.3s - just keep the revs down low for the first five minutes and don't run any high flow implements. I always let it idle for 3 minutes at the end of the day before I switch it off as well (just habitat from diesel chippers).
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Yes and no. It certainly won't go though a larger root (finger size and beyond) but it would cause some damage glancing off it etc. I think the damage is negligible to the overall benefits.
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Hello, can I ask for opinions on using a vertidrain near trees? We have a lot of avenues of trees with compaction which we intend to aerate via an airspade but with heavy clay soils there is only so much we can feasibly achieve. I wondered if radial trenching in the critical root zone then using our vertidrain (150mm) from the CRZ to the just beyond the drip line. We mulch the entire area after. Benefits vs costs (root damage) - Any thoughts?
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Dodgy looking auction on eBay. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123706775557
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I bought a danelander 3pt linkage one and welded it to a multione bracket. Works well clearing up after large hedge cutting. Wouldn't be ideal on a manicured lawn.
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Timberwolf S426. I have one that we use for basal, hedge and planting prunings/residue. Does a great job.
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Agreed. What a beauty.
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Ive never understood converting a double cab to a tipper. I have a king cab tipper and that's questionable. Single cab with a tool store on roof rails above the cab - keep the back purely for chip.
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Something like a TP270 might work well for you. I've been on the look out for a tp250 for a while and the whole range seems to get pretty good feedback.
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Got an end of season deal on a McConnel flail arm for the Dorado. Just set it up now. After remov8ng the useless passenger seat the controls seem to fit nicely. Need to tidy the cables a little. Seems a really good size and weight for the Dorado.
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Is just touching the cables enough to do this? You don't need to break/damage them?
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Something like that.
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I assumed you meant agri trailer? Cant see it working on a 3.5t trailer, too much going on - weight in the wrong place and so on. Ive seen some american ones but these obviously have higher tow weights.
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The handling on rough stuff is my favourite bit about the dorado so I was trying to work out how to maintain this really. Saw there was a formula so thought I'd give it a try. I'm going to go with roughly a third front ballast of the rear implement. I don't have anything over a ton so should be fine. Appreciate the input guys.
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The manual states the front axle much have at least 20% of the unladen vehicle tractor weight ( so 20% of 3220kg = 644kg ). The weight distribution unladen is 46% on the front 54% on the rear. This is 1470kg front and 1730kg rear). From the middle of the front weight to the centre of the rear axle is 2985mm. From the centre of the rear axle to the middle of the flail (which I am trying to ballast) is 1374. So 70% distance ahead of the rear axle and 30% behind. So roughly the front ballast needs to be the rear implement / 2.35. A 1000kg implement would need a 430kg weight to maintain the 46/54% weight distribution. The maximum front ballast is 320kg but I assume based on the I have 826kg weight within the tractor (1470kg unladen front axle minus the 644 minimum). So I wouldn't need to use the all of them to achieve the minimum 20% but if I did put all 320kg I would end up with roughly 39% to 61% weight distribution. Do this make any sense to anyone???
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Anyone got a good idea of front ballast calculations? I am trying to work it out for my Same Dorado 86 but it is making my head hurt! I have got these as : T L 3220 T V 1490 T H 1730 G H 900 G V a 800 b 2185 c 774 d 600 I have tried it a dozen times and cannot get anything that resembles a feasible number.
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I carry my MO in a gh94 beabertail. Can't get any attachments on with it but it's a brilliant trailer to tow. Perfect behind a 4x4.
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I know a highways contractor who did just that. Came in super cheap on a bollard as it was one of the ten key items they had to quote for. They put in a price to supply and install for less than cost price of the bollard. Won the contract and the council ended up putting in bollard instead of railings as it was so cheap. Contractor had to novate on the contract after 3 years. It's got to standalone in my opinion.
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I have bid for and currently hold a few term contracts. You'd be crazy to put in for such a vague tender. My experience is you would be providing 20 or more prices for specific sizes/work combinations. You couldn't accurately price what you have there.
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All of the ethics/details aside trying to find a 'value' of something will be based on its returns. How much genuine profit is there in that £38k per year and how many years left on the contract are there? First times the second gives you a figure. I'd put your 'value' around 40-60% of that. Possible extensions to the contract may add some value but actual years on the contract is where it is at.
