richy_B

Yes, I feed it with an excavator or loader. Be good if it could all go behind each other!

Hello, got a new chipper to go on the tractor. It has a rear ball for an Ifor type trailer. Can it legally be used on the highway to pull a plant trailer with mini digger (to feed the chipper). Or is it purely off road use?

Minor contribution to the conversation - Its the same hyd couplings as the Multione loader.

Not usually one for these fail videos but I saw this one and thought it was worth a share. F*ck me I would have panicked. Sorry if it's a repost.

That would be great but as a 2018 plate is got to be pricey.

Yes, you'd have to be competent already I'd expect. They are just physically providing you with what you need for the test etc.

Is that a 7.5t? I'd have assume 18t from the bulk of it.

Don't get me started! I'm like a kid with an argos catalogue in November - I need very little encouragement to buy more kit!

Something like the m500 maybe. I used a smaller Jo Beau and got frustrated by it, too easy to clog, very limited capacity. If you have a big back garden then it's ok not for professional work. Would a timberwolf ph125 be too big? Cheap to buy, very capable little machines.

If your garage is doing a decent job of the regulars checks you shouldn't be getting many surprises at MOT time though, should you?

How well does a 3 way tipper work on a trailer? With it being quite low doesn't all the chip get inder the wheels and make it a sod to pull away from?

The thing about 10t vehicles is their scarcity. Having a quick look now there are no 10t tipper (and only one 12t tipper) within 150 miles of me. 7.5t and 18t toppers are in abundance in comparison. Easier if you are buying new but I don't have the funds, looking at decent 3 year old, 60-80k vehicles.

restricted.

I debated this with myself for a few weeks! It came down to cost and short term need. I drive transits around London all day long and I am very confident in my ability to use them. I had a tester lesson and the instructor said just do a few hours instruction and do the test. Equally C1+E is identical to the B+E test that I've already done. So it's costing maybe £500 to do these both. The test vehicle was an iveco panel van, no bigger than my t350 so didn't feel much of a stretch. I'm not confident I could jump in an 18tonner with drawbar trailer and get C+E in 2 days. Quotes I got were around £2k+. It's also time I am away learning to drive a lorry I am not earning. Overall It would be £3k real difference between the 2 options. I get that a C+E is the best to get overall but I can't see me using anything over a c1+E in the next 5 years. Time will tell if I am right!

Just going through it myself. Been holding off for a while but the new ULEZ is forcing my hand so I thought I'd I am changing vehicles I'd make the jump. My take - 3.5t is a great place to start but it's just that, a start. You have a pretty small legal payload and if it's your main vocation it's going to be holding you back. Something like an iveco 70c is barely larger than a transit but has over 3t payload compared the 1t if you're lucky. That's 10m3 of chip compared to 3m3. For me it's about keeping it legal and not 'getting away with it'. I'd rather just concentrate on my work and not have the worry of getting pulled etc. To get a C1E is costing about £800 including theory and medical (provided you have experience with larger vehicles and trailers). O license is costing me about £1500 with a company assiting with the paperwork. 10 weekly checks are going to cost a few hundred per year plus anything they find. In fairness this is not going to be loads more than the transit when averaged out. I got some instance quotes and interestingly they are the same as my transit. Overall it's going to cost more per year but compared to the time is saves with two or three trips to tip off I think it is worth it.

I had a Ifor 3017 tipper and only needed to charge the battery every month or so. It would easily do 50 loaded tips on the battery.

Just doing a C1E and O license and all the associated gubbins at the moment. It is primarily to replace my transit t350 tipper with a 7t tipper. I have looked at a 70c tipper. I have a 90hp tractor but I don't want to go down the tractor towing route, I want to keep it all clean cut and legal.

The 65c, 70c and 72c have a 11,500 GTW I believe.

Thanks for the replies. It's something I have been mulling over. I looked at mini artics (Iveco 50c SWB with a gooseneck trailer for example which could tow a plant trailer with a payload of about 5,500kg). Site to site I'm all normal roads but I operate in parks, nature reserves, open spaces and getting that last few kilometres across a damp field (not serious mud plugging) would be ideal. Have my vehicle, kit, etc near me is a serious advantage. I though a Ram 2500 or F250 on mud terrains might work.

Hello, I know lots of people have imported US pickups and get them registered >3500kg category by downplating but I'm interested in whether anyone has kept them 'full fat' and kept their full payload and towing capacities? A dodge Ram with a goose neck 5th wheel set up is the aim. C1+E, O license, regular checks are all fine.

I've started the thread so I'll finish it! Spoke with my 'closest' dealer. They didn't have any experience of the Dorado and were a bit reluctant to get involved. As per my previous post I diagnosed it as a speed sensor. I didnt know where that was not did the dealer but they were able to send me a picture of the sensor from their workshop/dealer manuals. From that I found the sensor and the problem. Looks like the sensor wiring had taken a hit. Wire had an obvious kink. I stripped the outer wrap to reveal the 3 inner wires, hoping it was a wire break. It was a wire break on one strand but annoyingly it had pulled out right at the sensor so I couldn't repair. So new sensor.... Dealer said they don't make the sensor anymore so it needs a new version, which wasnt compatable straight up. It needed a mini ECU to be added in and all wired up. They gave me a quote of £380 parts and approximately £800 fitting plus VAT. Ouch. So a bit of googling - found an brand new original in the midlands, fitted it, refilled transmission and tested. Perfect! £170 and 1 hour of my time. What Ive learnt : There are two sensors on the transmission that relate to engine input. One I believe is hydraulic and apparently can't be replaced. There is also a electric one (magnetic). This is the one I replaced. They are referred to as wheel speed sensor but it might be a translation thing - it is a RPM sensors relating to the input engine speed. I don't know if they government anything else or just provide the driver with engine information, ie speeds, pto speed. The fault is limits the engine rpm to 1800. Until the next breakdown, happy tractoring!

Yeah, I will tomorrow. SDF dealers are pretty far flung unfortunately. EDIT. My closest SDF dealer is having a look into it but by their own admission havent had much dealings with a dorado. In the meantime I managed to find a workshop manual. My fault code is M10 - apparently 'second wheel speed sensor' has issues (faulty or connection). The speedo is going mental as well, at stationary it is was displaying loads of different speeds so this tallies. I've going to try and find the unit on the tractor and see it is connected properly etc whilst I wait for the dealer to come back to me. A wheel speed sensor should be on the rear axle somewhere shouldn't it? Assume some sort of non-descript probe with a lead attached.

It's a fairly 'basic' tractor but I am thinking electrical issue. The 'memory' is some kind of engine speed regulator so electric sensor. I've got not idea where to start on that though.

No luck there. I found it comes on without starting the engine as well. Just turn the power on. Haven't got a code reader for SDF. It's a 14 pin set up.