Dilz

done, could have a whole thread about these questions, let us know your findings and good luck

What you needed to do was get a nice level back cut just above the bottom cut of the gob and leave a nice big bit of hinge. not wanting to pick too much but i would disagree, level or upto half a cm below the hinge, especially in that case... that way the hinge doesn't crack when the tree goes over meaning the hinge controls the tree all the way down and if done right the tree will almost always still be attached to the stump (unless you fell it high up)... if you have your back cut above the hinge the fibres break and let the weight of the tree do the rest of the work, cutting level or below allows the fibres to hold on, so even less chance of it going sideways, cutting above allows it brake making it often easier when snedding to roll the tree as it doesnt require another cut to get it loose from the stump or when you want the tree, branch, top etc to jump off. e.g you dont what big chogs hanging on too much so back cut goes above... as for a really wide hinge, not entirely needed a tree that size a hinge of 2cm thick would do the trick and certainly you wouldn't need more than 3cm, (for the mechanics of it....the psychology of it that's a different matter) i apologise for the rant but it does irk me abit when people insist you must put your back cut above the hinge and never below, and its a flaw with the training in CS31 imop,

In word word - Jammy! in a few words... i applaud nothing about this except you came here looking for advice, fair enough you 'had a go' but luck and not much else saved your pool house, and your skin.

i know what you mean about splices now, some are stupidly small, and its only something ive seen recently from the ropes from HB, next time i order ill be stating a bit more detail about my splices, as they are too tight espcially for those who use larger krabs.

Trees management and cultivation by bob watson will cover most things, the ISA certification handbook is also really good if a little expensive. - i think these are best for basic theory. a tree guide for sure, collins are top imop. if forestry is your thing then forestry for the agent and surveyor by cyril heart is a good start shigo can be a bit hard going and not the nest for getting your ground knowledge from but is well worth it.

easy old mill, know a few blokes who climb on prussics and they are damn fine climbers, know a few more who bought the lockjacks and didnt get on with em, and seeing as the lad is at college i doubt he'll be forking out for one just yet..... xtc is bomber rope ....i did the same switched from years on XTC to Poison Ivy, dying to try out some imori,

its taken a while, just constantly playing with different hitches, then different cord lengths and getting the right combination of friction cord and climbing rope, self tends after a few meters and grabs solid, helps having the bridge on the Tree motion shortened a bit as well so its all closer to you.

'woof' said mohammed

spikey spikey smashy smashy! although i do like abbing down rather that spiking down,

to get the best out of banks you have to put the time and effort in, each try and get you to come over as a new customer with good deals, in the knowledge most people stick with who ever they start their accounts with, so you have to keep moving, get you 2 years free banking then switch to another bank etc. and i had to call up to get them to make their charges appear on my statements which at first they didnt, as these charges are tax deductible

im fat and unfit, and i sweat Jack Daniels, does this qualify me for the uk team...... Seriously though i might have crack this year, never done a comp climb and never been noted for being that quick but they look like they would be a good laugh are they still running novice competitions? and if so is there an age limit or something or is it that you just haven't been in a competition before??

for light bits a krab is fine but then there is the issue of them possibly slipping, the quickest method i find for taking out the crown is using slings, have a bunch up there, and you can be setting stuff up whilst the last piece is being lowered, keeps the groundies working hard as well, but for big lumps, tie the knots, if your brining down big lumps on a krab then. Keep an eye slings you use though, especialy the narrow dyneema slings, which are great but can get worn out damn quick from my experience.

it could be the rope, i cant say i was ever fond of the geko, but have used it and gloves weren't needed just to grip. I find with gloves you often have to grip the rope harder, especialy if they are thermal ones. All gloves have their advantages and disadvantages, and you have to try a lot to get the ones that are right for you. I now a bloke who climbs wearing marigolds..... but mostly you just need to climb and get used to it. Being able to work with out gloves is good they nearly always get caught in your prusik or get in the way when tying knots. just find your self a woman who likes rough and tough hands and you'll be fine

one thing i would be interested in finding more about on is the effect of different fungi and pathogens on different species, having observed that where one tree species being infected with say ganoderma will barely show any signs of decay where as other species appear to suffer greater damage.

ear problems can really mess you up, also hangovers aint so great.....,but also not having your mind on the job, poor sleep etc can make what should be a easy tree appear stressful and ruin technique. Also climbing with a mate is fun, when i was at collage we use to muck about setting up targets, talking through new techniques, egging each other on. its a good crack.

prussik with a loop is the quickest to tie, split tails are good if you get the rope combinations right. Know pleanty of chaps who still use only prussik even after using a HC. Personally i use hitchclimber with a VT, it self tends very well, especially if you feed the rope in like on a spiderjack,

used to bail down on a munters hitch, and hope that you dont have to let go for any reason else the descent would get perhaps a little too quick.....we stopped doing it when we had to bin all our descent ropes due to glazing........

had the pleasure of seeing one of these types, the best ones are really modest about it to. This guy was quick and calm, and it really peed me off just how good he was with a throw line, with which i am crap! Though its also nice seeing some bloke make a right hash of it, take ages, tie him self to the tree then maybe brake something inexpensive, then i can feel better about being crap with a throw line....not that im insecure or anything .........

will be having a go a this, as soon as i stop crapping like a shaking dog....i blame the fish.........

bugger, just checked it aint working!

are there age restrictions for going over to oz to work?

Off work due to gut rot......so to cheer myself up i paid me self big old xmass Dividend and currently looking at what shiny stuff i can buy on the company account.....

cause - id say metal....hinge....i aint perfect but id say you were a little too high with the back cut, i always try to cut level or marginaly below so the hinge doesnt break too early...unless of course i want it to break e.g jump cut...

another thought is not to buy all our krabs of the same make, or if you go for the same make, try and get different coloured gates, this will help you quickly identify them when you need to and help prevent unclipping the wrong one, the ovals are great for the hitch climber set ups and they last long, but the larger HMS styles are better if you still climb on a split tail with everything clipped into one krab, they are also better for abseiling down on a munters hitch, and stowing gear on.

i was talking about this the other day, great vid... i carry my silky on my left side (all sharps on the left, so im constanlty pulling it across infront of me, very very carefuly i might add, perhaps i'll try it on my right hand side for a change....