Dilz

its more a case to stop some types whom i foolishly let loose with em from using the wrong files, despite having been given clear instruction. Thats the sense bit, the issue with spares could as you say make it less sense to do so. Also having read about 7toothed sprockets i dislike the thought of loosing some of the low end grunt which can cause problems on the larger diameter pieces, correct me if im wrong.

were very helpful in helping me get insurance to cover me outside of the uk. Never had to make a claim (touch wood) so dont know how they are with paying out.

do what you feel comfortable doing, but take note if it goes tits up there can only be yourself to blame.....i rather dislike having workexperience types now....they keep saying things like, my tutor says you shouldnt do that.... or that isnt how they say in such and such a book....'very much a case of do as i say not as i do....I'd have words with a new climber about doing that....but if they had a few years under their belt then i assume they have assessed the risks to them selves that they have made the choice which best suits them.

would anyone recommend the gladiators over the standard arb type c's?

nothing ventured nothing gained i guess....will probably switch back to type A's in the summer any way....

right, my old hi flex are nearly ready for being put in the rag pile, tempted to try out the stretch air after many years of the hi flex. Any one got any feed back on them? the gladiators appear to be class 2 im guessing they might get a bit toasty.....

i know and trust the 200t its a reliable work horse....how is the newer 201t holding up? I'm looking at getting some more climbing saws so wonder if i should stick with old faithful or go for the newer model. Also wondering if i can switch over to .325 pitch chain and bar on my climbing saws without any issues, would i need to change the sprocket? helps keeps things more simple with files and guides etc.

but are its water retention problem as bad as some people are saying?

been on P'ivy for the last 3 months but with a HC, its a nice rope, very nice in the hands, though i'm starting notice some signs of wear and it will be interesting to see how well it lasts. It runs through pulleys and such very nicely and though its a dual core and needs milking it in no way requires it on the same level as the blaze, i think my mate got about 2 feet of slack off after milking his blaze. Planning on buying a short rope, and though i really like the P'vy i might buy a different brand, just to try em out, though with winter coming i reckon i'll switch back to good old 13mm XTC so i can grip it with gloves better as i was thinking of the Imori but as i will be usining it mostly this winter then if it gets wet and stays wet it aint so good for me.

can they take crampons?

points well made.....she doens't appear to keen about not having two spliced eyes....appears they don't teach them that you should know and trust your knots before relying on such niceties as spliced eyes, i showed her the one rope does all system which she had never seen before....i tell you these swedes are all about the shiny things......

We have a work experience girl with us this week, she is on a course...the course....the only one in the whole country of sweden that deals with arboriculture. Like so many newbies she is keen and asks lots and lots of questions..... also like a lot of newbies who get a loan....she rushed out and bought lots of kit....some of her choices are fine but there are couple of things i think she should have waited to buy. But any way to get to the point.....'She purchased the Yale Blaze 11mm from a well known uk supplier, she requested a spliced eye in both ends (upon the advice of her instructor () said uk supplier sent this rope as requested..... now the Blaze i think is well noted for needing quite a bit of milking, and as a dual core rope it shouldn't have a splice in both ends as it means you cant do this... she climbed on the rope a few times and it is already playing up and she is planning on cutting an eye off. Now i have told her she should contact said uk supplier and ask them 'why! did they not inform her that the blaze shouldnt be spliced at both ends?' and i personaly think she should get a refund for at least the splice. So do you think that suppliers of arb equipment should be able to explain to customers when they make slightly foolish or misinformed choices regarding kit?

i and a work mate had similar issues...,check for slight damage to the air filter, often caused by over vigorous cleaning with out an air line. But it could be any of the others. as well.

i dislike how i sit with the flip line in my central ring, however having the flip line in a figure of 8 configuration i am told has the similar effect of not making you part of the loop should the top rip. These events can sometimes catch us by suprise, i hate using my flip line in a figure of 8 as it rubs across my knot. I recognise more now the kind of trees where this is likely, mostly if they have a forward lean, there are way we can cut to aviod this such as boring in behind the hinge so that the hinge is already formed as it is usualy the tree trying to go with too big a hinge that causes it to rip down in this dangerous manner we are talking about, or using the double sink cut technique...though this means you have less control over the direction (with the double sink cut) but if the stem or branch has so much of a lean its going that way no matter. Also I have noticed over the last few weeks here in sweden how the instances of tearing increase this time of year and i guess its the same in the uk, due to the changes in the sap wood, so i make my cuff cuts deep, especially on the oaks as these have caused me grief in the past and when the temperatures get to around -15 and below well......its all rather experimental.......i spoke with some real old school foresters out here and even they say you can never be sure what is going to happen when the trees are frozen...

that vid is good, i'm going to show it to some folk, although it did need you to 'go for it' and id hope that most of us can tell when we hit something metal and stop quick... especially when jamming an 880 with a big bar in to a nail and being then handed the file...... but it does prove my point that you can cut through them, and with an 020 as well... i was thinking it would struggle...

indeed - one conclusion was form the chat i had at work and a point we agreed on, you'd have to be not on the ball that day of just a bit of an idiot to do so....

should i mention about the time you cut your thumb with a chain saw there jenksy?

truth! i also find plugging the cut with sawdust and moss helps to stem the bleeding.... i once used spray on plaster, it hurt like hell and did nothing....

So today's heated debate at work was....'flip lines are chainsaw proof' said he......'i think not' says I ' though they do offer some protection against cuts you can still mash through one, especially with a big saw' any one agree or disagree or have any experiences? My old boss who's name i shall not name as he floats around here once nearly cut through the big old blue swedish strops with either the 660 or 880, there wasnt much left holding it together...he manage to realise what was happening in time. Also why is it so difficult to get some to accept that they need to have a soft link in their flip line if they use a cam or grab???

sorry...i meant it in an endearing manner.... Climbers round these parts get called it a lot, chimps are damn fine climbers i reckon...... i didnt mean to come across as insulting.. as you had imop hit the nail right on the head! why is it a problem if a customer says could you just... of course there are the little things that are really no bother, but if its a bit more than that charge em...your already there earning on the current job you are doing... and if they say in that case no then fine.... you can get back to your days plan as it where

when i worked for a company in oxford we use to start work early to avoid this...and try and miss the tush hour back....but until the next plague hits and wipes out half uks population then the traffic is as inevitable as bad weather.... i don't for a minute believe we can solve every problem we come across...but there are some that we can find solutions to or at least take steps, or change our point of view to realise that it really isn't that much of a problem ( the could you just?) and its by using these forums and information we can improve our industry but only through collective effort and sharing of knowledge etc. I am intersted to see which things crop up the most and not surprised so far.

thats why we get called in in the first place isnt it? cos the bloke down the pub with a saw from netto cant fell the tree....but agree unless we use big cranes its a pain, i'm so glad i havent had to drag through some ones front room for a long time now....

Agreed! or at least in part this group are a major thorn in the industry as they take alot of the bread and butter work away from us.....is there anything we could do??? what actions could be taken?> or at least attempt? (legally mind - i'd rather turn the isle of white in to some interent tv fight to death reality shoe for these swine....but the isle of white doesnt desreve such bad treatment) are these people affecting solely private clients? or are they nicking the bigger works as well?

give this chimp a gold star! 'of course i can just do that and seeing as i am already here that will only be an extra £(enter you desired amount here).

you forgot the customer who doesnt bring out a cup of tea the customer who has built a greenhouse full of Ming-vases and rare orchids direclty under the tree in the time between the quote and turning up to do the job and seemed bemused as to why you inform them it is now going to cost more as it is not the same job. i have a work phone and private phone, work phone goes on to answer machine only when its non work time, so i dont get that problem, how can we stop your heavy handed work crew busting up your kit? impose fines or rewards for not doing so? is there a problem with the kit that the manufacture might be able to fix? Customer awareness seams to be a very strong issue, tey dont know nor appreciate what it is we do....i agree, i want to solve this, not sure how....we can send leaflets, but who is going to pay? who is going to read? who is going to care? Any other ideas on this?