Dilz

any news on the new husky climbing saw which is due out? any one got their mits on one yet? i have my apprehensions about the auto tune, you need something you can fix on site if it plays up, but it is alas the way saws appear to be heading....

the few folk i know with auto tune on their saws get into trouble after about 20hours of operation, which could be a bad sign for the new T540 xp

give me a shout john if you find a comp to enter, i'd be up for it would be cool to catch up and remember the good old days of finding ways to annoy Mat.

probably more helpful than the Jack Daniels

also would like to add, in general there are two main types of reductions, 1) quick ones 2) good ones.

the issue i find with doing reductions starting form the bottom working up are these a) the branches you cut from the top get hung up on the branches below so you have to climb back down, b)when chucking branches down from the top you will smash that oh so perfect growing point that you busted a gut to get to, c) its harder (imop) to get the shape in. I start from the top, seeing as reductions are usually in height, get my groundy to sight me in for the top height and then work from there, your grounds man should know a good tree shape as they can point out bits that stick out or hangers and such to help save you time and energy. Another good trick is if you have poles or long pruners, or such, this way the ground crew can take care of the lowest branches for you which are often the ones you have to climb furthest out on and to get to and to get back from. I use a set of extendable loppers which reach several meters as well when im in the tree, using these i can bring in several tips from one working point and are excellent bits of kit as they can allow you to take off just the bits you need to rather than just the bits you can reach. Reductions are an art form, and requires good climbing skills, tool use and tree knowledge, and it is a very rewarding thing to look back at a tree you have reshaped well. Then there are those that you never look back .......

Cheers, thats Friday sorted.

Saw isnt oiling right, -when on tick over the oil bubbles out when the oil screw is turned up to max, but not enough considering the its turned up, when on full rev's hardly anything comes out, I've run some stuff through to clean it, but to no avail. Never had this issue before, New pump needed? Or can it be fixed? If so How? Cheers for any info

just watched the vid....did you use the rope wrench in a DbRt Style to come down from the last chog before felling? Also how does the RW work when you make an initial ascent into the tree to establish a high working anchor point? as i feel it would be more time consuming to establish a top anchor from climbing from the ground than using Dbrt? or would it be that you climb up using Dbrt and then switch? but then the RW cant be fitted midline can it??? confused i'd say i was

intereted to see what you have in mind

Weavers Rule

i cant splice (yet!!) so home madestuff is knots whic are a) weaker and b) too bulky

my issue with the pulley saver is the same i have with the art positioners, they cost a lot and its not a good idea to rag them out of the tree, though this is advised with all cambium savers but have done so for years with no ill effects, and before any one questions why i need a new cambium saver ..... i lost my old one in woods when i had to bail out of tree and dump my gear in a very disorganised manner in masses of brash due to eating the fish at lunch the day before......

money is in the bank, sales are on, got to get my shiny thing fix, among other odds and ends, i need a new cambium save, saw the sirius multisaver, thought that a 2 m length would be good, but never seen one or met any one who has used one so if any one has any feedback on these that would be cool, also the Harke smocks? any good for climbing / felling in the bad weather, need something thats hi'vis and up to the job. again any feed back would be cool

There alot of folk out there who put them sleves across as competent and experienced, I was nervous as hell when i went self employed and started subbying that i wouldnt quite make the grade, but the time i spent working for firms and studying set me me well up, walk before you run and to be a real pro takes years, learn from those around you and be humble and honest and you will do well

done, could have a whole thread about these questions, let us know your findings and good luck

What you needed to do was get a nice level back cut just above the bottom cut of the gob and leave a nice big bit of hinge. not wanting to pick too much but i would disagree, level or upto half a cm below the hinge, especially in that case... that way the hinge doesn't crack when the tree goes over meaning the hinge controls the tree all the way down and if done right the tree will almost always still be attached to the stump (unless you fell it high up)... if you have your back cut above the hinge the fibres break and let the weight of the tree do the rest of the work, cutting level or below allows the fibres to hold on, so even less chance of it going sideways, cutting above allows it brake making it often easier when snedding to roll the tree as it doesnt require another cut to get it loose from the stump or when you want the tree, branch, top etc to jump off. e.g you dont what big chogs hanging on too much so back cut goes above... as for a really wide hinge, not entirely needed a tree that size a hinge of 2cm thick would do the trick and certainly you wouldn't need more than 3cm, (for the mechanics of it....the psychology of it that's a different matter) i apologise for the rant but it does irk me abit when people insist you must put your back cut above the hinge and never below, and its a flaw with the training in CS31 imop,

In word word - Jammy! in a few words... i applaud nothing about this except you came here looking for advice, fair enough you 'had a go' but luck and not much else saved your pool house, and your skin.

i know what you mean about splices now, some are stupidly small, and its only something ive seen recently from the ropes from HB, next time i order ill be stating a bit more detail about my splices, as they are too tight espcially for those who use larger krabs.

Trees management and cultivation by bob watson will cover most things, the ISA certification handbook is also really good if a little expensive. - i think these are best for basic theory. a tree guide for sure, collins are top imop. if forestry is your thing then forestry for the agent and surveyor by cyril heart is a good start shigo can be a bit hard going and not the nest for getting your ground knowledge from but is well worth it.

easy old mill, know a few blokes who climb on prussics and they are damn fine climbers, know a few more who bought the lockjacks and didnt get on with em, and seeing as the lad is at college i doubt he'll be forking out for one just yet..... xtc is bomber rope ....i did the same switched from years on XTC to Poison Ivy, dying to try out some imori,

its taken a while, just constantly playing with different hitches, then different cord lengths and getting the right combination of friction cord and climbing rope, self tends after a few meters and grabs solid, helps having the bridge on the Tree motion shortened a bit as well so its all closer to you.

'woof' said mohammed

spikey spikey smashy smashy! although i do like abbing down rather that spiking down,