Dilz

i'm wondering if the back on my TM is just too old and worn soft. Its a mint harness when set up right for pruning though its crap as soon as you hang anything bigger than a 192 off it. I have the bridge set up really short. as i found it helps with self tending of my vt. I hang of my front D's when doing work positioning but on the sides for stem work. My mate spikes using the front d's - i tried it but i'd need to make the bridge longer for it to work.... When putting the harness on i have found that the best thing to do is nearly kill myself putting it on as tight as possible on around the waist and then it sits right as soon as i start to climb. Not sure if i wear it too high but i wear it wear it feels it gives my back the most support. I know some one who as the 3.2 but they have it in small...and i couldnt even begin to fit into it!

Ah! like the additional D rings on the bridge of the TM - which is one feature i really like! think i shall give it try buy as it has now ticked all the required boxes. As for thhe lock jack (which i have just ordered)... well i am not 100% convinced on them - i love my VT but i have played around with a LJ, and i'm not yet very smooth on long descents, but i found when i used it on some pruning jobs it was very useful, fine adjustments were easy and coming back in from branches and back up through forks was a breeze - my biggest problem was pulling up too much as i'm so use to accounting for the sit back of my VT. Time will tell if its a worth while investment.

Hello James! Glad to see another of the 'Riseholm massive' is still tree bashing! You still cruising in the yellow 2cv?? I'm still living in Sweden - soon be 6 years out here! Had a golden eagle flying over head whilst i was working in nature reserve last week, and had to explain to the project leader that the trees that had been felled into the river had been done by a beaver and not us, so its kind of cool - bored of freezing my ass off though. Im almost tempted to stick with the TM - i hate it but it is also awesome...but all the austrias i have tried in the past are like a pair of well worn slippers - but the tool loop configurations are really important. - The saw really needs to be hung off the middle to given maximum reach on both sides, and there must be a way of clipping a krab to run the rope through on the outside of the leg pad (stops the rope getting spiked and im changing over to a lockjack so its useful for that as well). Its crap in Sweden for trying out gear as there arent really any good shops where you can get you hands on stuff and see how it is and try it on.

prussik loop tied above your main hitch if you are rescuing the fat boy from a heart attack.

and does it have options to attach a krab to the leg pad?? (very important!)

and can carry tools be fitted to it??

Out with the old in with the new and shiny. Time to replace my tree motion - i kind of like the TM but its not the best harness for spiking - im almost tempted to buy a weaver for my take down work and a TM for pruning.... I quite like the look of the Austria 3.2 has any one any experience of the these? do they have a central saw attachment point in the back like the TM? i use both sides alot for cutting so this is a must really. whats it like for sitting on spikes all day? ( i dont mean for an hour or two, im talking about all day) any feedback - much appreciated.

a true story from a company i worked for in the southern hemisphere - who shall remain nameless - Drive back from a hard and hot days work, with the standard case of beers in the truck picked up on the way home - myself and the driver both supping on one as we drive into the yard. Cleaning tools having a beer and the boss comes up for a beer and a chat. Boss - ' Right lads im going to introduce a random drug testing policy in the company - can you pass me another a beer ' Groundy - 'can i have two weeks notice before the test?' Boss- ' That kind of defeats the object' Groundy - 'fair enough - have you got some sciccors?' Boss - 'Sure what for?' Groundy - 'I need to cut up my weed for this spliff' Boss - 'Oh...Can you pass me another beer' Dog then runs past us with a cactus in its mouth Boss - 'Dogs in for an interesting night' Me - Hang on is that a San Pedro cactus? (contains mescalin) Boss - yup Me - Where did he get that from Boss - They are growing in the wood chip pile Me - How did they get there? Boss - I planted them for a laugh. Me - oh, ok. Boss - So about the drugs testing.. Crew Leader - you'd have to fire us all.. anyone for the pub? ahh memories...vague memories...

move a tarifa, become a kite sufring instructor.

Thanks for the replies. i talked to the owner about how removing such a large limb will effect the mass dampening when i first looked at the tree. Though i am aware of mass dampening all i can say is calculating exactly how the tree will be effected by removing this branch is for me little more than educated guess work.... However one thought is that by taking the branches back this will reduce alot of the torsional moment created, the remaining part will then allow some of the forces that are transmitted through the main stem from movement of the rest of the crown to dissipate along the long stubs. The tree is also going to have some thinning and some light reduction work, Though this will be kept to a minimum on this visit to avoid stressing the tree too much and stop it from growing mad with epicormics. The branch in my opinion is actually a bit of a mutant. It comes out of the main stem about 2 meters from the ground and bends up to about 30degrees. The actaul tree diameter is probably a touch over 1.5m at ground level. The concern is that if the tree fails in a high storm it will make a hell of a mess of the buildings and in the past a tree has failed and caused damage. I'll may end up doing a resistogrpah test on the tree, but it shows no obvious signs of internal decay, but it would put the customers mind at ease, and due to the size and age of the ash tree its not impossible that there is internal decay but its not showing any obvious external signs. Thanks again folks!

so having a disscusion with a fellow tree head about a mature ash tree thats having some work done - a large limb needs removing - now if it is taken back to the trunk the wound diameter would be around 1m. A normal reduction of the branch tips wont remove the hazard. What we have been talking about is - is it better to cut the branch back to some epicormic growth about 6m from the trunk, that looks to be about 5 years old or take it back to the the stem. My personal view having looked at the tree is that this is preferable to leaving such a large wound on the trunk - and then go back to the tree in a few years to thin out the regrowth where the cut has been made. Making such a large wound on the main stem in my view is just inviting decay to start forming in the main main stem. My mates view is 'well that isn't how your supposed to do it and is opting for taking the branch back to the main stem' Be interested to hear some different views on this.

yeah go for it. I have worked in NZ and Sweden having come from the Uk..in fact im still in Sweden. for 5 years...i just wish i had made more use of working holiday visas and done OZ and Canada as well! Auckland although expensive could be up your street, Some big companies lots going on, You have surfing in Murwai and Piha but the rips are savage! But found the locals really friendly the only thing is if you work all week your stuck with the weekend crowd line ups. Your only a hour or two from surf beaches further north and then also you can do a weekend trip up to Shipwreck Bay. Seriously go for it!!

Thanks ben. after asking around and checking some books came to the conclusion it was Peridermium pini.

WHen i was 22 i use to go to work and slog my guts out, head to the pub and get smashed and party the rest under the table, wake up, coffee and fag for breakfast and do it all again.. Now i need two coffees but i have time for that as i quit smoking...i think it all depends. I'm now 32. I have some muscular problems with my back. (mainly caused from driving long distances and time sat at a computer and not doing my exercises....The biggest difference i think that comes with age is firstly recovery it takes longer and secondly mindset. Older people tend to have a tougher mind set (i.e they winge a lot less and just get on with it) Experience makes life easier in the tree. The older a person gets i think the more prone to injury they can become and the more important it is to do proper exercises like stretching and Like Paul Jenks says, build on the core muscles as a strong core is vital. If you jump straight up a tree from sitting behind a desk for 25 years, you may struggle...but i met a guy who will now be in his 50's ho did that in his mid 40's was told he shouldnt even think of becomming a climber. 3 years after being told that, he was tough as old boots with a six pack despite how much ale he supped. Also know a woman who is about 5ft tall and in her mid 40's when she started...she wont prune trees as she doesnt have the body strength to pull her self up on a rope with out ascenders. But she can spike around a fell as good as most climbers who are 1 year out of college and swing branches in. She just pushes off smaller chogs than the blokes and climbs out a bit further.

Come across a site today of 9 pine trees all with dead tops, not just dead brancehs but the stem is dieback as well. some signs of white exudates on the dead wood, No obvious fungal fruiting bodies. No changes to the ground level or other ground disturbances. Any ideas?

the 25% referes to the amplitude reading . i.e how high up on the vertical axis the graph is. The higher it is the higher the resistance. So what you are saying is that the actual level of resitance recorded does not correlate to the actual strength of the wood? But by taking the baseline (which has been done in this case) a comparison can be made regarding the differeing levels of amplitude from other readings taken from the same tree, thus for example, if the base line and 2 other readings average out at an amplitude of say 60% but then another reading produces an amplitude average of only 25% then this could be suggestive of an area of inherent weakness with in the stem. or at least cause for a bit of chin scratching....

THe process itself is very simple. Its the interpretation of the data that is important and in my mind the most difficult part, as well as how it effects the recommendations of a tree report. Just because there is decay found doesnt mean the tree is any greater risk, like wise just because there isnt decay doesnt mean the tree hasn't the potential for failure.

Just looking at some IML resitance drilling results as part of a learning process. One thing about the results on an oak tree im looking at this evening is that the amplitude of the reading is below 25% for the nearly the entire drilling. Does this indicate low wood strength? i got give the results for a maple to look at and it was off the scale so thess ones look really low.... Any feedback much appreciated.

THanks for the link! Im putting together a system using some different software that will hopefully allow for data to be collected electronicly regardless of the operating system and also then produce something that can be sent to the client. Expereimenting with open software for creating databases, forms and will have a ponder into excel when i get a bit more time on it. The mapping side of things is rather out of my area of expertise but i think i have found some software that will allow for specific page maps to be created on which the trees marked accordingly but cant get it so detailed as to actually draw the canopy spread and root zones but i am aiming this to be used for initial tree surveys. When the map for specific area / street is opened it will allow the user to simply click on the tree id number at it will open the relevant survey data. Have yet to figure out how to automatically update the map from the data sheet (i.e if the work has been completed) It should also mean that job sheets, quotes and any thing else can be accessed via the map page. - Some issues are that the mapping takes a bit of time. Nothing is automatic and as im only usuing a trial versions not every thing i want to achieve can be done. So im looking into what other systems people are using, both software and hard ware and how these work, pro's and pluses. - So far it looks like the mapping software will be around 180 - 200 quid. It is something i have only recently started looking into and have contacted arbortrack and down loaded a few things i have found for surveying.

any one got any experience of any tree surveying or tree mapping software?

hang on is it 3.1 or 3.2??

Does the Austria 3.2 have the option to fit a carry hook on the back for hooking the saw into ? i.e its the bungee is clipped in and when i want i use the hook to hold the saw close in either via the ring on the bungee strop or via the handle??

if you want it go for it. the tickets will give you a foot in the door. how well you get on, work ethic etc will depend if you get booted out. some folk may say that 30 you are too old, thats bull. your back ground will do you good. its a rewarding but hard job the money is crap.

are they any good? can you use em for srt? is it better to just stick to a vt?

not with the money you offer Danny