Dilz

make a quick cut with the saw and jam the hook in, dont go too deep less you wreck some decent timber. I use the next size down from this bar for felling, and a big one with a hook for rolling, The little ones are mint, hit wedges in with it and then jam it in and stand on the back to get it over.

My 346xp runs like a bag of the proverbial poop. Its slow to pick up, often the revs dropping right off as i pull the trigger, and often requires a bit of feathering to get it up to speed. If i jam it right open then it can die. It doesnt like to start... even when warm but its a husky so... but also last time i had it out and used it all day by the end of it it would randomly drop the revs or stall when cutting and when not under load once i had gotten it up to full revs. To me it sounds like the saw isnt getting enough fuel or too much air, but I've done what i know - cleaned and adjusted the carb, airfilter is fine, no holes, fule filter looks fine, changed the spark plug, but its still not right. It has done this since i bought it. It was the last one in the shop as the 550's came out. Was only used as a back up saw as i got a 560xp which has more grunt to it. But as things are relatively quiet at the minute i've got the time to fix it. Wondering if i should replace the carb entirely? any ideas much appreaciated

pholiota squarrosa is sometimes not very aggressive, I most often see on trees that have exeprienced some sort of root damage but the rest of the tree was healthy - example in summer i crown cleaned a tall robinia, tree was in excellent condition, was on the same site in the autumn, large amount pholiota squarrosa at the base. The tree had suffered root damage due to construction. on the same site a dead cherry had pholiota squarrosa at its base but I doubt that it was the sole cause of the trees decline...but any way i digress... to the question in hand - it could just be coincidence - the thing to do would be to monitor the tree next year and see when it comes into leaf and when it sheds them. Even then there could be a number of factors such as south facing aspect, available water, wind exposure, genetics etc....though one area i'm willing to speculate is that - could there be potential for the fungus to encourage the tree to remain in leaf longer so as to make more carbohydrates available to the fungus....or is it the trees response to being attacked by the fungus, the tree itself responding to a need to bolster its defenses and that this will require more energy??? there are things we know that we dont know and things we dont know that we dont know etc etc. so the short is i havent a clue.

Has anyone used one of the Sherpa mini skidders? doesnt look like it has much beef as an Avant but I think it could fit most places, and as its lighter might not churn up lawns too much.

I believe our good man Tree man69 is expressing his own special way his struggles with getting to grips with the old SRT whilst using a rope wrench some perhaps a pantin type device and a hand jammer sort of thing if I'm not mistaken. The best advice is keep at it. Practice outside of work with no time pressures and if possible find someone who has experience of using SRT in trees and get them to show you some tricks. Lots of videos on youtube and such with good tips as well. It may help if there is any particular aspect that is proving difficult rather then just saying SRT is hard.

Thinking of a getting a new harness - got some wear and tear in the old lumber region - arthritis at the base of my spine and in the hip and a disc thats a bit unhappy at times - was wondering if there are any other climbers out there with back issues and what harness they find offers the best support?

Being handed a blunt saw - unless I'm about to sharpen it. eating all the biscuits / more biscuits than me.

My old poison ivy was stiff as a wirecore due sap and filth from these last few weeks. Usually wash it on a low wash but just realised I had it on 60c. Rope seems fine and very clean now it's out. Any one got any warnings about a hot wash on a rope?

old ms200 held together with spruce sap, a 14inch bar and full chisel chain - why complicate matters? - also anyone else find these days silky blades just don't keep their edge for long?

cant find 11.5's half sizes stop after 10.5 - size 12's are ok in winter as i wear thick wool socks - but causes me grief in summer on long drags - best pair of Haix i had were EU 46 2/3rds spot on fit but nowhere does them anymore

makes sense - more rope = more stretch = more force absorbtion. Its easy to see how much difference there is just by comparing ascending on a base anchor vs a top anchor - though why any one would fall with slack intheir system is beyond me...

Mallion on a prussik loop.

`the price is indeed shocking! i like to have large caritool with the gate taken off. Have the saw on a strop attached to the back handle attahed to a usual attachment point on the harness but you can then hang the saw by the front handle on the caritool - this is mint when sorting out rigging lines as the saw isnt hanging about like a big piece of snot getting tangled in everything.

also is the quick step foot ascender setup worth it? I do use SRT for just about anything i can get a decent line in.

how the andrews for fit? im usually 11.5 but you cant buy half sizes anywhere in any climbing boot! so if they are snug a size 12 will do me fine

dont like airstreams - Haix are big and clunky so thats no change for me - Steel toe is a must - as is chainsaw protection.

the main thing with learning arb work is time in the saddle and on the tools, and learning from those experienced in the industry - which really means being junior to some one - despite the courses- you probably wont know enough, and will not be able to compete against experienced crews - in the beginning a tree that would take you all day would likely take 1 hour from a climber with 10 years on the job - and as for getting the money in - unless your business is well established expect to be living on noodles for a couple of years! courses are good and teach you a lot - if you want prestigious go do the courses at Kew - but you and your family will likely starve....but its skill and experience that will earn you the money - basic arb set up is truck and chipper- a couple of groundsaws, rigging kit, pole pruners. your own climbing gear, - ita fair few grand you need to get really set up properly. Books there are many and many are very good - it depends what you want to know. are you planning more to be a manager and consultant or you want to be on the tools?

ive actaully had the same issue - back pain around the lowest rib - but i put that down to something else - but i have found it has a tendancy to ride too high up unless im wearing a jumper...or i tighten it until i can breath - i also noticed that the waist belt appears to have stretched over time as when it was new i could only just fit in it - now it feels to big - either that or going back to full time climbing has just stopped me from being so fat...

been a fan of Haix P'pros for a long time, my current pair are coming up to their 3rd birthday - but thinking of trying something a bit lighter... like the look of the Andrew quickstep boots as I'm rather fond of SRT... Pfanner also look like they could be good. i fit between 11.5 - 12uk sizes Anyone got any good feedback on boots?

how do you mean it killed you? nacker trapping? or back support issues?

I use to the say for DdRT until i got a lockjack... roll on the Akimbo! But the point about forces and such is very valid - though to be fair I now have a lot more respect for the strength in trees - though side pull is a big one - but again that can be sorted by using the right kind of redirects.

Rock E's ovals are mint, really like the Pirate krab - the down pull on the gate is nice if you have a lot of bulk with knots, tether, and pulley wheel. Petzel ovals I think are solid, ive had some years with no issues - DMM's i've had issues with the gates jamming up and not lasting as long as the RE's and Petzel

I tired the Austria 3.2 - its a good harnes but.... the lack of adjuatbility on the distance of the leg loops means that as a lanky type its a ball buster, my mate who is to be fair a short arse loves it though.

yeah - ive been using one for a while - I have big feet (12uk) and wear protector pro's which are a big boot - so i find the foot loop a bit too small and can be a bit awkward getting it on and off - however the device works well - its quite expensive and you can build a fairly effective version rather cheap, but for straight out of the box ease of use its perfect.

Can anyone tell me if there is anything key to distinguishing between Hypoxylon mammatum and Xanthomonas populi? is there any particular patern of rot associated with them? i.e was the wind snap I saw today a result of decay caused directly by the canker rot. or is it more likely to be caused by a secondary agent - e.g Fomes.