Dilz

it does all seem a bit too GRINDR for my liking...

sorry was just asking - what was i supposed to say in the private message? - hello here is a private message? you couldnt just send me a private message explaing this? you trying to keep it a secret or something - scared Spudulike is gonna hunt ya down?

Was wondering about opening up the exhaust on my 201TCM - Will the chip manage to adjust the carb? any thoughts or suggestions much appreciated.

I could, the question to ask would be why? and about what?

Just inherited a tray full of parts that have been sat around for a probably a couple of years, adding it to the spares i have sat around and with a couple of minor purchases (e.g piston rings and gaskets, airfilter) i will have enough to fully construct a 200T. Everything is in bits down to the last bolt. Just wondering as I aint a mechanical type by trade in any sense if there is anything i should watch out for when doing a rebuild using parts that have been sat around in a workshop for such a long time - (main concern being bearings). Thanks in advance.

too much to do with too little time and thinking too much that it matters so much to get it done - leads to shortcuts and making simple mistakes - mistakes when playing our game can be life-changing experiences or this case life ending. This stuff is tragic to read about, really sorry for his family.

Nah - last pair were Andrews... good boot don't get me wrong but not so nice for wearing the old pruning spikes as the Haix Protector pros and for pruning jobs its the arbpro evo boots - like slippers they are, in fact I'm wearing them now as im sat in the den smoking fine cigars and drinking brandy all purchased with my ill-gotten toppin and loppin gains.

i'll top it and paint it pink if the price is right - then i can worry about the state of my sole surrounded by fine wine and luxury.

brad? he's probably sat drowning his sorrows wondering how he screwed everything up so bad to end up as a subby climber, busting a nut for years and naff all to show for it apart from lots of climbing gear, a dodgy hip and rusting pickup with a cracked windscreen - trying to plot a way out of the mess he's got himself into but the thought of doing something other than tree work or idea of building up a company himself - dealing with customers? dealing with employees? - those kinds of thoughts got brad chucking the back his beer and reaching for the scotch and checking his diary is booked up enough over the winter season to pay the rent. myself? after the last 8 years of a 15 year tree life being a self employed subby? at 35? i'll keep being a rockstar for a just a little bit longer (but not too much longer...)

i switched from the 30cm(the one in the picture) to a 25cm. I like the shorter one a lot more.

So after getting one cheap when they first came out through freind of a friends brother who works at DMM - i actually used it today - Just wondering what systems / methods people use for hauling themselves across a traverse - I used the other end of my climbing line to attach the hook and then I used a VT set up and a hand ascender to give a DRT advantage - worked ok. but just curious.

I messed around with a few different ideas - and a lot depends on the job - but If i feel im going to climb lots on DRT then I just use the SRT for access and any work along the way, then have my DRT set up (which lives on another rope) and just set it up. FOund it great when doing big reductions where i can leave the SRT system set up as an escalator. e.g when the customer brings a coffee just swing back into where i left the SRT system set up bomb down on that and its nice stroll back up. Also means no more truckers bladder. My SRT set up is on cougar blue and lives in one bag by DRT set up is on Cougar orange and lives in a DMM rope bag / rucksack type thing, so if i want i'll just ascend with the whole thing on my back. Best thing is to remember to pull out the DRT set up first - that way when the rope guide/pulley saver gets stuck - its just hop back up the SRT access line. That said if im just skipping about dead wooding a nice tree or something like - i'll just climb SRT.

This was my original set up - recently moved to a shorter tether and i'm much happier with it. I notice the ZZ does stretch out a lot more than on DRT but I make up for it by tightening my sphincter on long open air ascents. Been using it for about 18months not noticed anything wrong with the ZZ yet.- wouldn't want to go back to a VT set up. (Also i just noticed that the instructions for the ZZ say you can use it on a single line with additional friction ( in the example they give they use a munters beneath the ZZ ) I once did an ascent with just the ZZ and no RW on a single line, worked well, as did my sphincter.

Over in mainland europe, i have found people tend to throw line more than use big ladders...when in the uk it was ladders up on nearly every job. I have two throwline sets. 1xstein cube (agree its utter poop) zing it throwline, has an old 12oz weaver bag and i think 300g courant bag. 1x courant pop throwline bag (the line can move about too much during storage but it doesnt self fold for no goddamn reason!) courant throw line (super nice) a 300g (maybe 350?) courant bag and a 12oz Harrison rocket bag A company I sub to has a big shot and I really like it and just had my own delivered today. Sometimes my throwing is ok, somedays its way way off. The big shot and SRT set up is the way to go on anything thats a decent size. Couple of guys i work with are really good at throwing and see it as the more 'pure way' (they like comps) - i just like using a giant catapult. I find having two throwline sets is great for when the first line ends up going too high or over the wrong branch and i can use it to set the second line on a branch i want-. I have extra throw weights which is handy if i want to isolate a branch with just the one throwline as i clip an extra weight on and I know for sure it will drop back down, and can get more momentum if i need to make it swing.

Took down a birch today for another company - it had canker like staining on the stem, and several big blisters in the bark - popped one with my spikes as bright red semi-translucent liquid came out - also the wood around the discoloured heartwood halfway up the stem had a pink tinge to it - for maybe 3 or 4 growth rings - kind of strange- not seen it before that i can remember. If anyone can enlighten me that would be grand.

Wondering what devices people like to use for measuring (accurate) tree heights. Looking at getting something electronic for speed over the manual clinometers.

alot depends on where you have been and what you have done. but unless specifically asked to supply a background check then you dont need to. Applies to the medical stuff. NZ is mint, Wish id stayed out there for longer

Was wondering what systems/software and devices folk are using for conducting surveys and mapping. More and more folk are keen for stuff to be electronic so it can be easily adjusted as works are completed, trees removed planted etc.

I finally picked up a 150 T today. It is a nice saw but it is quite slow to pick up speed. The plan is to open the exhaust when I get a spare minute. Just wondering if the carb will need some suitable adjustments or if it will be obvious if it needs tweaking.

Had the Arbpro evo 2's on today for the first time - some simple dismantles on spike and general clambering about - boots were super comfy - now wish you could get a pair with a steel toe and chainsaw protection

Thanks! so well i think i will plan to start with a new 150 - from what i've seen it looks really simple to open up the exhaust a fair amount. Also tempted to do my 201TC-M but that is my work horse so cant have that sat on a bench for too long if a cock something up.

the arbpros are for use in the tree only and not on the ground, and really only when its handsaw work as there is no chainsaw protection. A lot depends on your company set up - if he has been made aware that he needs steel toe cap boots and then chooses not to wear them even though you as his employer have done your legal duty to provide him with suitable PPE then the fault should lie with him. If he had no steel toecap boots and you told him to work in his trainers or whatever the fault lies with you - the difficult part is how lawyers could twist stuff about in court should something happen. The guys i work with who use pruning boots usually carry two sets of boots - pruning boots and chainsaw boots - one young lad though has just taken to wearing his scarpa boots the whole time - I've seen two broken feet on site and heard of quite a few more due to people not wearing proper boots - if it were me in you place - id say climbing boots for pruning climbs only, then the rest is up to your employee

fair point - any tips on cleaning a saw prior to dismantle would be much appreciated.

Just becuase i dont have enough broken stuff to fix i'm considering having a go at some modding - never done any before so very much in the research stage and have a question. Is there much point to modding the exhaust without advancing the timing or do the two go hand in hand - or is it really saw specific? (Saws im considering modding are MS200T, MS150T-C and Husky 346xp) Im checking through the US forums but the information is kind of all over the place and it can take a alot of reading to get specific info.

- SOoooo this may sounds a bit dumb - but my limited past experience has taught me that an airline just isnt enough to get years of crud off a saw (not always my saw!) before I attempt to fix it or at least dismantle it and forget about in a box for a year.... I live in a flat - and chainsaws are banned from the kitchen table. my workshop which is down the road also has no running water. So pressure washer isnt really an option. Was considering chucking the saw in a bucket and giving it a blast at the 'wash it yourself' car wash I take my van to - is this indeed a dumb idea?