Dilz

i switched from the 30cm(the one in the picture) to a 25cm. I like the shorter one a lot more.

So after getting one cheap when they first came out through freind of a friends brother who works at DMM - i actually used it today - Just wondering what systems / methods people use for hauling themselves across a traverse - I used the other end of my climbing line to attach the hook and then I used a VT set up and a hand ascender to give a DRT advantage - worked ok. but just curious.

I messed around with a few different ideas - and a lot depends on the job - but If i feel im going to climb lots on DRT then I just use the SRT for access and any work along the way, then have my DRT set up (which lives on another rope) and just set it up. FOund it great when doing big reductions where i can leave the SRT system set up as an escalator. e.g when the customer brings a coffee just swing back into where i left the SRT system set up bomb down on that and its nice stroll back up. Also means no more truckers bladder. My SRT set up is on cougar blue and lives in one bag by DRT set up is on Cougar orange and lives in a DMM rope bag / rucksack type thing, so if i want i'll just ascend with the whole thing on my back. Best thing is to remember to pull out the DRT set up first - that way when the rope guide/pulley saver gets stuck - its just hop back up the SRT access line. That said if im just skipping about dead wooding a nice tree or something like - i'll just climb SRT.

This was my original set up - recently moved to a shorter tether and i'm much happier with it. I notice the ZZ does stretch out a lot more than on DRT but I make up for it by tightening my sphincter on long open air ascents. Been using it for about 18months not noticed anything wrong with the ZZ yet.- wouldn't want to go back to a VT set up. (Also i just noticed that the instructions for the ZZ say you can use it on a single line with additional friction ( in the example they give they use a munters beneath the ZZ ) I once did an ascent with just the ZZ and no RW on a single line, worked well, as did my sphincter.

Over in mainland europe, i have found people tend to throw line more than use big ladders...when in the uk it was ladders up on nearly every job. I have two throwline sets. 1xstein cube (agree its utter poop) zing it throwline, has an old 12oz weaver bag and i think 300g courant bag. 1x courant pop throwline bag (the line can move about too much during storage but it doesnt self fold for no goddamn reason!) courant throw line (super nice) a 300g (maybe 350?) courant bag and a 12oz Harrison rocket bag A company I sub to has a big shot and I really like it and just had my own delivered today. Sometimes my throwing is ok, somedays its way way off. The big shot and SRT set up is the way to go on anything thats a decent size. Couple of guys i work with are really good at throwing and see it as the more 'pure way' (they like comps) - i just like using a giant catapult. I find having two throwline sets is great for when the first line ends up going too high or over the wrong branch and i can use it to set the second line on a branch i want-. I have extra throw weights which is handy if i want to isolate a branch with just the one throwline as i clip an extra weight on and I know for sure it will drop back down, and can get more momentum if i need to make it swing.

Took down a birch today for another company - it had canker like staining on the stem, and several big blisters in the bark - popped one with my spikes as bright red semi-translucent liquid came out - also the wood around the discoloured heartwood halfway up the stem had a pink tinge to it - for maybe 3 or 4 growth rings - kind of strange- not seen it before that i can remember. If anyone can enlighten me that would be grand.

Wondering what devices people like to use for measuring (accurate) tree heights. Looking at getting something electronic for speed over the manual clinometers.

alot depends on where you have been and what you have done. but unless specifically asked to supply a background check then you dont need to. Applies to the medical stuff. NZ is mint, Wish id stayed out there for longer

Was wondering what systems/software and devices folk are using for conducting surveys and mapping. More and more folk are keen for stuff to be electronic so it can be easily adjusted as works are completed, trees removed planted etc.

I finally picked up a 150 T today. It is a nice saw but it is quite slow to pick up speed. The plan is to open the exhaust when I get a spare minute. Just wondering if the carb will need some suitable adjustments or if it will be obvious if it needs tweaking.

Had the Arbpro evo 2's on today for the first time - some simple dismantles on spike and general clambering about - boots were super comfy - now wish you could get a pair with a steel toe and chainsaw protection

Thanks! so well i think i will plan to start with a new 150 - from what i've seen it looks really simple to open up the exhaust a fair amount. Also tempted to do my 201TC-M but that is my work horse so cant have that sat on a bench for too long if a cock something up.

the arbpros are for use in the tree only and not on the ground, and really only when its handsaw work as there is no chainsaw protection. A lot depends on your company set up - if he has been made aware that he needs steel toe cap boots and then chooses not to wear them even though you as his employer have done your legal duty to provide him with suitable PPE then the fault should lie with him. If he had no steel toecap boots and you told him to work in his trainers or whatever the fault lies with you - the difficult part is how lawyers could twist stuff about in court should something happen. The guys i work with who use pruning boots usually carry two sets of boots - pruning boots and chainsaw boots - one young lad though has just taken to wearing his scarpa boots the whole time - I've seen two broken feet on site and heard of quite a few more due to people not wearing proper boots - if it were me in you place - id say climbing boots for pruning climbs only, then the rest is up to your employee

fair point - any tips on cleaning a saw prior to dismantle would be much appreciated.

Just becuase i dont have enough broken stuff to fix i'm considering having a go at some modding - never done any before so very much in the research stage and have a question. Is there much point to modding the exhaust without advancing the timing or do the two go hand in hand - or is it really saw specific? (Saws im considering modding are MS200T, MS150T-C and Husky 346xp) Im checking through the US forums but the information is kind of all over the place and it can take a alot of reading to get specific info.

- SOoooo this may sounds a bit dumb - but my limited past experience has taught me that an airline just isnt enough to get years of crud off a saw (not always my saw!) before I attempt to fix it or at least dismantle it and forget about in a box for a year.... I live in a flat - and chainsaws are banned from the kitchen table. my workshop which is down the road also has no running water. So pressure washer isnt really an option. Was considering chucking the saw in a bucket and giving it a blast at the 'wash it yourself' car wash I take my van to - is this indeed a dumb idea?

Today i had a go using a bowline on a bite, cinched it on the life line side with a 3-way locking krab - worked well enough for advancing the system to a final tie in point and the Krab doesn't get side loaded so long as it doesnt magically twist around when you are pulling up - hasn't happend yet. I think i picked up the idea from Treebuzz

Im using pretty much the same setup - It works well and its not too much trouble to swtich back to a DdRT set up. - I also have a 30cm tether and reckon a shorter on would be a bit nicer with it.

its different for different people and depends on your set up - I use to use a hitch climber because of the extra hole. now i climb with w wrench and zig zag with a D-shackle in the top hole - so i clip into the D shackle. I prefer to clip low down / on to the hitch as this really helps advance it. Check out the simarghu tether. it has an integrated attachment loop.

8mm on 11m climbing lines - maybe 11.5mm. everything else 10mm - 11.7nn line with 10mm hitch is a winner for me

Alas i fear it would just be an inferior blend of Aspen, redbull infused piss, and spit tinged with just the faintest hint of Marlborough lights, but i doubt I (nor the groundies) could tell the difference.

you have a few options - alot will depend on what you will use - e.g neck or chest thingy - or even the good old over the shoulder lanyard. I use to have a small bit of throw line to make a loop on the wrench itself to help advance the system - doesnt work so well with a chest harness mind - You can do the saw to the pulley wheel - just have a little loop of throw line running through the eyes and then clip into that - another option is either make a loop on the stiff tether or buy the stiff thether with the little attachment loop already in it - i like this set up when using a chest harness - but i usually use a neck bungee now though.

Ended up using my pulley save to make a retrievable top anchor. Dont think i have read about it any place but it did seem to work well and pulled out ok despite going through a couple of NC re-directs- the set up was the same as when i use a normal cambium saver in this set up - using a Alpine butterfly backed up with a krab - the only danger i really see is the pulley wheel busting - the load could be a bit oddly balanced on it - but figured the becket would stop any major accidents. Anyone else used this method? Also - the tail end that runs to the ground for retrieval - could this be used as an emergency access line?

well ive gone for the Arbpro evo'2 s - it states that they shouldn't be used for ground work because of the softer grippy soles so - sorry lads - get dragging!

I fell out with my 4 SRT foot loop - I bought the one meant for chainsaw boots but it was too tight to get right over my size 47 canoe like Andrews, this meant it sat funny on my toe end and it also wore through after about 2 months as it was a massive pain to put on and off so it got stomp around on the ground a fair bit - hence the desire for something where it the loop is intergrated into the boot.