Dilz
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Everything posted by Dilz
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They were epic for smashing through ivy covered ash trees - saw a bloke nearly slice one with a 660 in the tree...i manage well with 13mm - though the cover does make a difference.
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that sounds about right - not too much harm in changing it now - there has started that whisper of - am i sure this is a sounds bit of kit - and that has always been the prelude to changing it out - that said I've got 15 year old krabs that I feel sound on. And i guess i could get use to not using the old two-way snap hook - but to be honest it will be very sorely missed having tried other karabiners and the 3 way snap hook.
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id guess mine is - its an old yale one though - it is the same type that the guy was using the broken - but it was maybe 12 years old....
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A while back a lad in Sweden took a fall as his flip line had rusted behind the thimble - apparently couldn't been seen as it was under the rope cover - anywhoo - my flip line has a good few years on it (6/7??) - and i dont want to change it as it has the good old two way snap hook on it - I have no idea what the shelf life of a flip line is....but my current one looks alright to me. I am pretty much of the mind though if I'm starting to question it is best to replace it.
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You think deep and dangerous thoughts! But yeah - a top tie with SRT generates a lot less force on the anchor point.
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Exactly - the rope (black marlow) has a fair amount of stretch in it and I think this system would give it a lot more stretch to absorb to logs when they first drop onto the line.
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Yeah a mate ive been chatting to has just brought that up - the ring at the top would have to take the load from the running end of the speed line and down to the base - but then the angle needs to be taken into account - A very rough calculation (and not allowing for any shock absorbtion and based on the log being snatched to a stop at the end of a rope) a 200kg log dropped 0.5m (generating 625kg of force) with an angle of 70degrees at the top ring would generate 775kg of force at the top point (387,5 at the base and other end of the speedline This is i reckon is quite a fair bit over the forces that should be generated using the set up i have in mind but its just a rough calculation
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more looking for confirmation on this question - but - it relates mostly to when having to drop stem pieces on a speedline when the line is set on the stem (i.e just below the chog about to be pushed) Instead of tieing off the speed line rope using a running bowline or timber hitch at the top - would a base tie and running the rope through a ring on a whoopie sling or similar at the top allow for greater energy absorption due to the increase of rope in the system? To me it makes sense and tomorrow i will try it out . I also think the forces will be better distributed rather than everything focused at the top.
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that's a fair motivation - alas i don't have a mortgage. Debt free = carefree = cripple
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wheres the fun in that?
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It's rare i slip, but mainly get knocks when going for it, jumping and swinging around having a good old time of it, most the time it isn't a problem but sometimes I misjudge or slip, Only got one set of knees and they haven't exactly had it easy.
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Any one use knee pads to help protect against knocks when climbing? Was thinking of trying some military flexible type ones - i can imagine it will limit some movement but my knees have rather high mileage and take a bit longer to get over being bashed.
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Bejeeezus...im glad im a) setting my own rate and b)living a long way from brexit island. -
Nah not really - pros and cons - when subbing quite a few jobs i get put on are charged hourly to the customer ( usually city clients or fussy garden owners - Charging hourly came about from being on a day rate when the employees were by the hour - I was trying to smash through work and go home and they wanted long days - after a couple of weeks of roundabouts and no swings (10-12hr days no flyers) it just wasnt going to work as my daay rate was based on an average of 8hrs - so i switched to charging hourly. ( and i aint that cheap so financially im pretty sound) This company gives me heaps of work, and its only rare when i get anything less than 6 hours paid for the day - Yeah sure the odd dropped hour adds up but if so do the odd extra hours... though i miss the lets get this done vibe home by lunch with the money in the bank - but as a result - with that company - accidents and breakages are pretty rare and usually due to noobs rather than rushing, and its usually relaxed working with the crew.
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I asking more about when working as a freelancer/subby to another company vs pricing your own jobs.
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I agree - if its a day rate - but what about hourly agreements?
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does this include driving inbetween sites on multiple job days?
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I think most people charge a lot more money than they did 15 years ago - I know i did - i earn the same in 1hr as i did in a day when i first started dragging - just over 15 years ago... actually... I understand that its different for different situations - its kind of how I work - I live in Sweden so drives can be very long - so, for example, a very well paid gig that was 500 miles away - the agreement was a minimum number of days to make it worth the while. Another gig that was for a few months work but a 12 hour drive away was a two way fee to cover fuel and coffees and food for the trip, but any extra trips home I paid for out of my own pocket. Short stints at distance have been full expenses plus extra for my time. But more local work is different - when on my own jobs i factor in payment for fuel and travel time - but often when subbing i don't know where I'm going to be from day to day, and it's pretty easy to rack up over 100 miles in a day.
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Just wondering what people think about a) being a freelance climbers / subby etc or b) hiring freelancers / subbies and charging /paying driving times and mileage? There are times when doing both where I have only charged or paid for time on site. There are times when doing both I have charged or offered a lower rate of pay per hour or distance for driving. There are times when doing both I have charged or paid full rate for driving, both hourly plus a mileage fee. (this is my favorite to get paid but least favorite to pay if I'm honest about it) The clock sometimes starts from when I and whatever crew leave my yard or if needed from the yard of whatever company I'm working for, I dont charge time and mileage for getting to another yard but i start the clock as soon as i get there. Day rate / job rate is agreed upon with no additional mileage or driving charges asked for or given - though now for me most stuff is done on an hourly basis.
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How many hours do you put into your business?
Dilz replied to Stefan Palokangas's topic in General chat
Im down in the south so its a few hours of darkness. You need to be north of the artic circle for it to be full on 24hr daylight. And thats nuts. Doesnt even try to get dark. -
How many hours do you put into your business?
Dilz replied to Stefan Palokangas's topic in General chat
Yeah and no - Ive worked in some grim trees in grim conditions, and I can hack it as well now as I ever could - I guess i've just been spoilt by 3 weeks of wandering around Stockholm University doing an inventory in my shorts eating ice creme to be that keen to be back out in the dark freezing my nuts off because after this weekend - it starts getting that little bit darker on an evening and winter will be back soon enough. -
How many hours do you put into your business?
Dilz replied to Stefan Palokangas's topic in General chat
I agree, this job gets into the blood. At least the climbing and felling part...stumpgrinding just doesnt give the same buzz....and i sure dont feel so blessed 30m up in a sleet gale in January... -
How many hours do you put into your business?
Dilz replied to Stefan Palokangas's topic in General chat
work to live not live to work -
In what way is the avant 313 like nothing else? I like the look of the 313 as its light enough to fit in the back of the van along with other gear.
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Im looking small loaders and skidsteers. Small enough to load into the back of a panel van and access small gardens. The avant 313 ticks most boxes so woondering if people have experience with them, reliabilty issues etc. Also considering sherpas 100s as they can be fitted with a little timber grab and things like muctrucks but lifting is still involved with those and not sure if they would be good for dragging brash. Any feedback much appreciated.
