Dilz

2,5 years in to my Pfanner Gladiator extremes - Still life in em by my reckonning but fancy something cooler and that leaves me looking alittle less like a raggedy tramp. I have tech extremes in the past when they very first came out - loved em but found em not long lasting. Pfanner vents seem good - but have heard people find em too warm. any feed back much appreciated

Made a raised planter out of some bits of pine i planked...its a start i guess...(Will get me a beltsander for starters - (i only own a RO sander and detail sander at the minute) . The ambition is to get a decent amount of larch from some place local for making fencing material out of to go around the property...and then build a sink cabinet for the workshop clean up area...and head board for the bed..and coffee table....window sills for the extention...new conservatory frame after the old one has been ripped down...greenhouse frame...etc etc.

yeah...i just quit my roaming subby life and bought a place with a bit of space so naturally bought an alaskan type mill dragged a couple of logs home and introduced myself to the neighbourhood one Sunday... just figured make some planks then find inspiration whilst waiting for then to dry

Also...little off topic... what thickness should i mill stuff to? ive done a mix of 1.5" and 2.25" stuff just to start off nothing massive as i have to handball everything.

So no need for stuff like a jointer / planer as that is the thing that most crops up on YouTube when looking up what to do with rough boards...

Complete newb here...bought a small log mill. planked up a couple of logs and stacked them in the log shed. What's next? I never got much past the "here is a piece of wood...sand it smooth... when at school... Got a year or two for stuff to properly dry and just begun to research how to turn rough cut timber into more useable/S4S planks and rails. Is it doable by hand rather than machines? is there any good literature out there that anyone would recommend??

But at least Greata wont be telling me off for using dirty 2 stroke

Got a Panther bar this weekend from a swedish supplier. Just ran it through a couple of small bits in the log pile. first impressions Its made the husky eletric cut much nicer. Exactly how i want it. Makes me wonder still why the husky chain is so bad? do they just make bad chains so you pay extra for the x-cut???

Sounds good! I'll keep my eye on the site.

Being based in Sweden the £30 shipping is a little off putting for anything other than a very large order.

0.050 going to switch to a .043 though when i first tested the husky it was on 3/8 0.043 12" standard nose and it too was gash hence why we tried the switch to 1/4" and dime tip bars.

brand new t535/536li switched to 1/4" 10" pruning bar and chain (husky) Chain leaves really ragged pruning cut and sometimes slips along the branch when starting the cut. tbh its rather crap. Any thoughts as to why??

Ive just ordered myself a basic set up for the T535li - Used a lot with in a company i sub to. We switched the standard bar to a 10" 1/4 pruning bar - makes it fairly rapid, and much better machine - 2 batteries and a charger. Will still be carrying around my modded 150T as the thing is as soon as you get on thicker stuff the battery gets eaten quick and there is fairly noticable drop in power when the battery hits its last bar, where as the 150T will chew through till out of fuel. That said the peace and quite, and fresh air afforded by the battery gear is damn right delightful. Had one issue in pissing rain with a battery not enjoying itself, Its a bit of a false economy if you are starting out as you are going to need to have a least one petrol saw as a back up. Was holding out for the echo dc 2500T but got impatient and I know the rest of the husqy battery range ive tried - hedge trimmers and pole saws are excellent bits of kit and get alot of work out of a single 300 battery. Got to say that the review is fairly spot on - i just recommend switch the bar to a 10" 1/4 and switch to a bigger saw sooner on the timber. For me though the biggest down side is you cant really rip cut stuff - and i have had it cut out when chasing a hinge a couple of times - which aint nice. Know its limits and you are onto a winner with the battery stuff- The new T540li looks solid - good test reviews here in Sweden, BUT its pricey and misses the point imop that battery tools individually should be cheaper, than the petrol versions as when without a battery.

Yeah my mate is on about a cheap copy and or a cheap band driven machine.... but reckon in a couple of years they'll be shot. Do you find the muck truck marks grass easily? is it easy to turn with a full load??

Yeah that's what got me looking. i bought an arbtrolley last year and thought myself a fool for not getting one sooner. Have used it with a motor winch on slopes but sometimes its not an option. one long slow drag is better than 10 quick ones. And mucktrucks seem to hold a decent amount of value if looked after...

Tis but a minor grammatical error. Im now leaning towards the cheaper mucktruck max and hunting down a powerlift attachment for it for timber and also using the muck truck to pull a wee chipper into back gardens.

Any one familiar with these? just saw on a message ck truck h- max video one using forks to lift a rock... reckon it could work well with short stocks and rings and could rig a kant hook off the back to hold brash maybe?? Would be for domestics / narrow access. Currently using an arb trolley with an additional front wheel but still requires manual handling to load and it can be a slog on soft and sloping ground.

Good point well made - we need exmaples of how the system is supposed to work in a safe manner rather than being told we must do it a certain way - it would help if they showed us - but then they would have to know how to climb trees with ropes rather than climbing stacks of paper work , But so far ive yet to see real video footage of a climber doing advanced work in a canopy using the two rope two sytems set up. (TRTS??) One point that came up in conversation was - with developments in techniques in SRT / SRWPT, there are comming into practice what can be called Hybrid systems. This is where the use of SRT/SRWPT is interchangeable with DRT/DdRT/MRT. I use these sorts of set ups my self. E.g DdRT technique is at my top anchor - limb walking out to the crotch, decide to drop through the crotch to work on the outer sections of lower limbs, A quick butterfly here, a karabiner clipped in there and im now working off a SRT/SRWPT system.

IVe only got to page 4 on this disscuison but felt the need to ask - Accidental detachment and cutting through of one system - this is human error, not following current practice regarding safety procedures. i.e Using a secondary line (side strop) when cutting or unclipping from the main system using a load bearing anchor point for it will stop falls. As for anchor point failure - I have had two mates bust their backs due to anchor point failure so I can support the decision in this BUT it should be for the climber to assess the situation - Both of those lads fell in small less than 10m high shitty trees. for me SRT or SRWPT or wtf it is getting called, Allows for a single line to be attached to multiple anchors. The use of the Multi saver also allows this. The biggest problem i feel is the lack of clear data - HSE i assume just have x number of accidents caused by falls or something and probably lack the detailed contexts and industry experience to assess if these accidents were user error / not following the current normal best practices. e.g not making sure you have a side strop attached to a load bearing anchor point when removing your main system - e.g to advance the main line. The thing is HSE are stubborn bunch - it sounds good to them so they will stick their claws in. It will be interesting to see if they push this and it becomes the norm if there is a drop in accidents - i personally dont think so - the types of accidents will change -I feel sorry the first poor sod who ends up getting strangled in a tree with a rope around his neck. I was just thinking on some big reduction jobs we can have 3 to 4 guys in a tree- sometimes with a little bit of rigging going on, quick speedline over a green house etc. And a rescue line installed / though used more for hauling gear, stashing saws and water bottles on. So that has potential for 10 lines being used! 6 is bad enough! plus side strops- Im sure you have been through all h

used aspen for 10 years, wouldnt go back on mix

the problem is - tree climbing isnt super spectaor friendly - every one gets a stiff neck looking up and only other climbers really understand the technical ability involved. Its like kite surfing - all the hard core kiters love freestyle / wake style tricks because they are solid technically, but for TV / red bull etc its all about Big Air stlye which (althoug not easy) is all about doing massive jumps - Take tree climbing vs timbersport - hitting big bits of wood with an axe - jo public get this, skipping out on a branch so lightly that a knacker on a bit of sting doesnt touch the ground - meh. Mean while i'll find a link to a speed climbing comp some guys i know up in stockholm sorted out.

Depends - on what sort of second climber - you got second climbers who are up and coming and then old Pros who are easing off a bit and letting the younger lads take their turn - older pros are worth paying well if they have the right skills - they are more like crew leaders - young un's should just get beaten and be thankful

i do like the timberwolfs...but its something to fit down narrow gates, sides of houses on domestics - chip small piles in the garden / boarders or get down narrow access paths - over walk way bridges etc - so road towable isnt exactly what im looking as right now.

Never really used a small gravity fed wood chipper before - only bigger PTO ones - for narrow access jobs and dragging around narrow tracks by ATV or power barrow - considering something that takes 4" (10cm for the youths ) e.g TB100 and anything that doesn't fit is either firewood or habitat.

what sort of Yorkshire man are you? Impostor says I - bet you drink tetleys and put the heating on instead of a jumper as a true Yorkshire lad would have packed the wound with sawdust an gravel, topped off with a bit of moss and held in place with a grubby handkerchief if need be- and if it got a bit funky, rinsed out with a bit of spit and best bitter when suppin after the days job - waste good money on plasters? - no yorkshire man i know ever would!