Dilz

Being based in Sweden the £30 shipping is a little off putting for anything other than a very large order.

0.050 going to switch to a .043 though when i first tested the husky it was on 3/8 0.043 12" standard nose and it too was gash hence why we tried the switch to 1/4" and dime tip bars.

brand new t535/536li switched to 1/4" 10" pruning bar and chain (husky) Chain leaves really ragged pruning cut and sometimes slips along the branch when starting the cut. tbh its rather crap. Any thoughts as to why??

Ive just ordered myself a basic set up for the T535li - Used a lot with in a company i sub to. We switched the standard bar to a 10" 1/4 pruning bar - makes it fairly rapid, and much better machine - 2 batteries and a charger. Will still be carrying around my modded 150T as the thing is as soon as you get on thicker stuff the battery gets eaten quick and there is fairly noticable drop in power when the battery hits its last bar, where as the 150T will chew through till out of fuel. That said the peace and quite, and fresh air afforded by the battery gear is damn right delightful. Had one issue in pissing rain with a battery not enjoying itself, Its a bit of a false economy if you are starting out as you are going to need to have a least one petrol saw as a back up. Was holding out for the echo dc 2500T but got impatient and I know the rest of the husqy battery range ive tried - hedge trimmers and pole saws are excellent bits of kit and get alot of work out of a single 300 battery. Got to say that the review is fairly spot on - i just recommend switch the bar to a 10" 1/4 and switch to a bigger saw sooner on the timber. For me though the biggest down side is you cant really rip cut stuff - and i have had it cut out when chasing a hinge a couple of times - which aint nice. Know its limits and you are onto a winner with the battery stuff- The new T540li looks solid - good test reviews here in Sweden, BUT its pricey and misses the point imop that battery tools individually should be cheaper, than the petrol versions as when without a battery.

Yeah my mate is on about a cheap copy and or a cheap band driven machine.... but reckon in a couple of years they'll be shot. Do you find the muck truck marks grass easily? is it easy to turn with a full load??

Yeah that's what got me looking. i bought an arbtrolley last year and thought myself a fool for not getting one sooner. Have used it with a motor winch on slopes but sometimes its not an option. one long slow drag is better than 10 quick ones. And mucktrucks seem to hold a decent amount of value if looked after...

Tis but a minor grammatical error. Im now leaning towards the cheaper mucktruck max and hunting down a powerlift attachment for it for timber and also using the muck truck to pull a wee chipper into back gardens.

Any one familiar with these? just saw on a message ck truck h- max video one using forks to lift a rock... reckon it could work well with short stocks and rings and could rig a kant hook off the back to hold brash maybe?? Would be for domestics / narrow access. Currently using an arb trolley with an additional front wheel but still requires manual handling to load and it can be a slog on soft and sloping ground.

Good point well made - we need exmaples of how the system is supposed to work in a safe manner rather than being told we must do it a certain way - it would help if they showed us - but then they would have to know how to climb trees with ropes rather than climbing stacks of paper work , But so far ive yet to see real video footage of a climber doing advanced work in a canopy using the two rope two sytems set up. (TRTS??) One point that came up in conversation was - with developments in techniques in SRT / SRWPT, there are comming into practice what can be called Hybrid systems. This is where the use of SRT/SRWPT is interchangeable with DRT/DdRT/MRT. I use these sorts of set ups my self. E.g DdRT technique is at my top anchor - limb walking out to the crotch, decide to drop through the crotch to work on the outer sections of lower limbs, A quick butterfly here, a karabiner clipped in there and im now working off a SRT/SRWPT system.

IVe only got to page 4 on this disscuison but felt the need to ask - Accidental detachment and cutting through of one system - this is human error, not following current practice regarding safety procedures. i.e Using a secondary line (side strop) when cutting or unclipping from the main system using a load bearing anchor point for it will stop falls. As for anchor point failure - I have had two mates bust their backs due to anchor point failure so I can support the decision in this BUT it should be for the climber to assess the situation - Both of those lads fell in small less than 10m high shitty trees. for me SRT or SRWPT or wtf it is getting called, Allows for a single line to be attached to multiple anchors. The use of the Multi saver also allows this. The biggest problem i feel is the lack of clear data - HSE i assume just have x number of accidents caused by falls or something and probably lack the detailed contexts and industry experience to assess if these accidents were user error / not following the current normal best practices. e.g not making sure you have a side strop attached to a load bearing anchor point when removing your main system - e.g to advance the main line. The thing is HSE are stubborn bunch - it sounds good to them so they will stick their claws in. It will be interesting to see if they push this and it becomes the norm if there is a drop in accidents - i personally dont think so - the types of accidents will change -I feel sorry the first poor sod who ends up getting strangled in a tree with a rope around his neck. I was just thinking on some big reduction jobs we can have 3 to 4 guys in a tree- sometimes with a little bit of rigging going on, quick speedline over a green house etc. And a rescue line installed / though used more for hauling gear, stashing saws and water bottles on. So that has potential for 10 lines being used! 6 is bad enough! plus side strops- Im sure you have been through all h

used aspen for 10 years, wouldnt go back on mix

the problem is - tree climbing isnt super spectaor friendly - every one gets a stiff neck looking up and only other climbers really understand the technical ability involved. Its like kite surfing - all the hard core kiters love freestyle / wake style tricks because they are solid technically, but for TV / red bull etc its all about Big Air stlye which (althoug not easy) is all about doing massive jumps - Take tree climbing vs timbersport - hitting big bits of wood with an axe - jo public get this, skipping out on a branch so lightly that a knacker on a bit of sting doesnt touch the ground - meh. Mean while i'll find a link to a speed climbing comp some guys i know up in stockholm sorted out.

Depends - on what sort of second climber - you got second climbers who are up and coming and then old Pros who are easing off a bit and letting the younger lads take their turn - older pros are worth paying well if they have the right skills - they are more like crew leaders - young un's should just get beaten and be thankful

i do like the timberwolfs...but its something to fit down narrow gates, sides of houses on domestics - chip small piles in the garden / boarders or get down narrow access paths - over walk way bridges etc - so road towable isnt exactly what im looking as right now.

Never really used a small gravity fed wood chipper before - only bigger PTO ones - for narrow access jobs and dragging around narrow tracks by ATV or power barrow - considering something that takes 4" (10cm for the youths ) e.g TB100 and anything that doesn't fit is either firewood or habitat.

what sort of Yorkshire man are you? Impostor says I - bet you drink tetleys and put the heating on instead of a jumper as a true Yorkshire lad would have packed the wound with sawdust an gravel, topped off with a bit of moss and held in place with a grubby handkerchief if need be- and if it got a bit funky, rinsed out with a bit of spit and best bitter when suppin after the days job - waste good money on plasters? - no yorkshire man i know ever would!

I agree - though its probably personal - and due to not using SRT exclusivley - but i can climb around much quicker and more confident on DdRT - On big trees I use SRT for access and then leave this line in as an emergancy line, tool line and as an express elevator line - no more missed cups of tea, no more busting bladder - just climb back to the SRT system swap over then zip down. YOu can even forward plan and think right - im going out on this side of the tree on DdRT and then i'll finish up down there so i can then pre set zagnwrench system i use to be around that heigh, so I skip around on the double rope down a side and then access back up to the top with SRT. That said its hard in the begning because it is different, it is a lot of faffing about, a young bloke i work with just hauls himself around on a double rope system, he's at the top of most trees by the time every one else has clipped there ascenders on and sort out anchors, BUT he is going to blow his shoulder out in his 30's like a lot f people i know have done (myself included) - and that is one of the biggest advatages as has already been said that once you get use to it, and it gets smoother, you save alot of energy on big climbing days.

Its time to ditch my Austria 3.0 it was an ok harness, though its never really got on so well with my back - though the additional bulky shoulder straps made it really great for hanging a big saw off - i got sick of the TM ending up around my armpits on big reduction days - the thing never seemed to stay in place - but then im built like a racing snake - or at least early 30 something me was when i had the TM but at least when it was new it felt like really solid back support. Thinking of switching back to TM but the Petzle sequoia 2019 has caught my eye but also interested to hear what folk have to say - I have lower and middle back issues, nothing major just the muscles struggling to keep up with the brain, that and a spot of arthritis. Any feedback much appreciated.

I have a IML Resi F-400 with the electronic unit I got for a bargain from a retiring Arborist. I used it fair bit the first couple of years i owned it but not so much now. The thing is the yearly calibration costs - quite high with the electronic unit - IM wondering if it's entirely necessary as i don't use it very much and it says on the website that it is advisable, not compulsory to have it configured every year. That said a juicy bit of inspection work is looking like its heading my way - I'm wondering about using the Resi as an additional tool for some sonic tomography. This will be a full written report job for a government agency - Will I be potentially at risk for including the findings of the resistance drilling in the reports using a device that has gone past the date for annual calibration (by a couple of years....). In my own mind yes - I'll be better off sending it off for calibration and service just to make sure I'm covered - but I wish they would have a setting per number of readings made rather than run of an internal clock.

Hello! Looking for some recommendations for companies offering the LOLER competent person course - preferably close to North Lincs.

Though it aint about the cost - its about the snap hook.

The blood runs a thick blend of Scotts and Yorkshires finest - so spending money is something my genes take to without protest.

crikey - never thought of that... - Yeah the doubles are great - I honestly can't see why they changed them.

5 years of use - to me = 5x(365x8) = loads of life left in it yet - they say use is one week per year for 5 years - thats way conservative imop (probably covering their arse) Its like the Treemotion only has a lifespan of 3 months (at least when i first read the small print some moons ago on the TM)

So what is it for flip lines then?