Dilz
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Everything posted by Dilz
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today's job...felled these oaks a few months back... client told me not to waste time stacking / stickering and clearing up....so i didn't. Ended up using the small log mill with 20" lo pro on the 661 for most of it. nice light and rapid.
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tis the dream...need a decent loader for shifting the logs and boards about though I reckon.
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yeah...I thought I'd have a go at milling to ease my self out of climbing as I get older... it's not to worst idea...well clearly it is the worst idea if I'm going to be using an Alaskan mill.... think I'll start saving for a skylift instead 😜
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yp - hes building a bench around his outdoor firepit and the planning some work tops for his kitchen. The job has been planned since march and hes sent tonne of emails and calls about how to sort things out and project ideas. He was a bit supprised / overwhelmed by how much work is involved with milling, storing, drying, moving the wood then all the work that is then required to make a final product to use indoors but has been really excited from day one about the project as a whole.
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a couple of pics from yesterday's job from my first paying client and the biggest log I've milled so far. First time really using lo pro chain and I liked it. Milled the short stuff in 3" and the longer at 1" 3/4....a faff to move them around his garden for the final stack but the old boy was loving it.. though my back wasnt...
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a greased nipple is a happy nipple
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Trailer was bought new in December. Stored in a garage and not used everyday. Shouldn't be due for a hydraulic oil change for a while yet.
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is aspen and poplar worth milling? got a fair few fells comming up with reasonable stems.
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sounds decent, will have to give them a call.
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Is that just a standard diamond wheel? not the one with fancy groove in that's meant for yellow jacket teeth? I guess it is easy enough to just work the tooth to get the edge back.
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Had a proper look today - Pistons looked fine, gave em a quick wipe and greased the pivot points and touch wood it all seemed to work a lot smoother after a couple of test tips to work the grease in.
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NZ is mint but the pay was crap...I'd probably still be there but ended up in Sweden. Havent touched leylandi for over a decade now. If you are young enough just get the working holiday visa for Oz and NZ Canada has a lottery for working holiday visas but know a few folks who got out there on standard work visas fine. But working holiday visas give you loads of freedom where as work visas you are tied and it's a faff to change company from what I understand from my brief jollyin NZ. You can also drop the tree work and go work at a ski resort /bike track... shit sod trees go work Whistler Blackcomb
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what diamond wheel do you have? Ive seen one with a special groove in it designed for yellow jacket type teeth but its seems rather pricy for the amount of grinding I actually do.
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it's only a small machine so shouldn't really be tackling the bigger stumps with it. Sharpening the teeth seems a faff. apparently need a special diamond stone but might find some place local that sharpens them. Will look at buying in bulk to save costs.
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Not that I noticed, seemed to be a bit of oil and black crud though but only glanced at it whilst tipping off today. Will have a proper look over the next few days.
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There is a lot to factor in like kit, holiday pay, sick days, the extra kit, replacing the kit etc. Working with different companies, freedom to travel to different areas for short term works etc, though alot depends on your personal situation - kids mortgage etc. Having a solid network is key. Good contacts with other companies and other subbies, machine operators etc, and its also easier to start picking up and planning in your own jobs if that's where you want to go with it.
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Cheers, will take a look and try that first.
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Debbon tipping trailer, first ram don't half squeal on its way up and down. Also twice now the trailer has stopped coming down when empty when it reaches the last stage. Has worked just lifting it again and dropping it whilst pulling down a bit on the bed but I don't think it's quite right. Any tips info on what could be causing it and how to fix much appreciated.
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well in answer to my own question...it was very much worth putting on the new teeth for the big poplar stump, very noticeable difference.
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got a lski / predator 360 SW . only had it 3 months. done maybe 50 stumps ranging from tiny bush stumps to 80cm conifer stumps. I switched the teeth round to the newedge for a full days work and didn't notice a massive difference and now swapping them for new ones because I've got agreedy poplar stump and a fair birch to grind tomorrow. Just wondering on how warn the old teeth are. No experience of any other teeth apart from finger teeth. Warn tooth ison the left. Doesn't look too bad tbh when compared to the new one. Figure there is maybe plenty of life left I them or??
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Reduce the harmful effects of exhaust emissions with Aspen Alkylate Petrol
Dilz commented on Steve Bullman's record in News
What's up with the 14hp Kohler ? I rhave one on my Laski 360 stump grinder. Not many hours but starts easy and runs smooth. Only ever use Aspen or other brand akalyte fuel in my saws and small machines both 2 and 4 stroke. Saws and machines run better on it though maybe use a touch more fuel but have had much less engine troubles and a clearer head at the end of a day -
AND...I could justify adding another mid range saw to the collection later....
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I'm located in Sweden. No where local has one, no place online. Second hand ones are like unicorn 💩. All saw shops here are struggling to get Stihl parts in.
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now had delivery of a 661 set back another 2 weeks for the 3rd time - total time waited about 8weeks so far... another local shop has got an 881 they keep trying to sell me...its tempting despite already having bought a 36"bar and lo pro set up for a 661 (teach me for counting my horses / saws before they come in I guess) really contemplating selling the bar and chains I've got and forking out the extra pennis (and its a few) for a 881 set up. But the whole idea behind the 661 is that's a saw that I will use also on bigger take downs...880s off a harness is something I'd like to keep as a distant memory if I can help my shoulders...but flip side is 881 is going to be handy if I end up getting some even bigger milling jobs - though it seems overkill as most the stuff I mill for myself is small diameter due to not having a loader to move bigger lumps about. any thoughts much appreciated.
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with the yellow jacket style teeth...is it best just to sharpen the flat underside or just the outer round edge? saw a special (meaning rather expensive) wheel for yellow jackets that had a special concave / groove that just sharpened the outer edge.
