Dilz
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Everything posted by Dilz
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Thanks - yeah I did a lot more research then actually had a proper look and due to the difference in the tang the LP chains don't sit right on the bar nose sprocket, so reckon its gonna cause stuff to wear and risk chain breakage so just ordered a couple of standard 3/8 lengths.
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Running a echo cs620 with a standard solid 20" on the small log mill. Picked up a couple of extra chains and realised id ordered the low profile chains instead of the the standard. Will these chains be alright on the standard 3/8 procket and a standard (non LP bar)? I have milled one log with it and it seemed to work but would rather skip learning the hard way that it will wear out my sprockets after a short while.
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Done some more research...the pm 14 is also limited to a 22" bar length and advises on log diameter of 35cm so will probably just upgrade / extend my Granberg small log mill for now and maybe get the mini mill and have a crack at quarter sawing.
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Started using a granberg small log mill, (because it was cheap beginner set up) milled a few things, quite enjoy it when I get the time to do it, a few people want stuff milling for them, but im limited by the supposed 20" bar limit (running on echo cs620X) Im going to hazard a guess that the issue with adding a 24" bar instead means the cut might wander off as the nose of the bar isn't supported in any way? is this right? Also been looking at the Norwood portamill pm14 set up with ladder rails to up grade and save the back a little- Any one had any experience with them? what sized timber can they take?
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Any good apps out there for carrying out site vists than can store all the relvent on site photos, maps, make notes etc relvenat to the address... Just using my phone and hand written notes at the minute which is fine until I realsie i have a dozen quotes to write up then eventually generate the relvant workorders, to include the photos and maps etc? Any tips much appreciated.
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Big tree SRT, short SRT, DRT set up, Fruit tree rope, rescue kit, Two zig zags lock jack sport and hitch climber with rope wrench. 5m side strop with pinto , wire core with positioner, base anchor (snake) Thimble top anchor for SRT / pulley saver for DRT... all krabbed up and bagged up ready to grab ( and then there are all the extras..e.g Dmm hook with belay, figure of 8 etc etc... travel light move fast.
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We dont actually have LOLER over here, we have a rule that says 12 month inspection by a competant person, and its very vauge as to what counts as a competant person, but basically if you have some kind of climbing quaification you are pretty much counted as competant unless you are in a big rope access company. My main issue is, using a single sheet for all the kit, then all the serial numbers etc need constantly typing / writing up again, Figured individual sheets would last as long as the kit and then its easy to add in new stuff... that said...i havent counted all my bits of kit just for climbing...but there is fair amount, 10 page worth of karabiners at least...and then there is the rigging...but thats not PPE and its only the PPE over here that needs to be inspected.
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As a sole subby cant say ive been very good at keeping regualr records of inspections but rules are touch different here, (i.e you get away with it unless something goes really wrong if you are a one man band) BUT have been called up on it and muttered at and also raising my game as bit. Question is,,, is it better to have an inspection sheet for each indvidual item (like is found in say teufelberger manulas) OR one big sheet listing all the kit that gets filled out every inspection? Just thinking which would actually produce the least amount of paper / printing / storage and work better.
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In this instance, Making a bit of thing for using when hainvg an SRT a canopy anchor. You cant buy anything ready made like what i want / have made. the EN 759 B relates to anchouring devices and slings etc. So long as all the parts use conform to this EN standard its good to go Or not? I made one using 9mm prussik cord that was only tested to EN 564 - accesory cord, and got a grumble because its not technically tested for anchoring. Figure this is a grey area with TF making all their CE made lanyards etc. Most the time id say where one could place their EN and CE marks, and its a dark and sunless place...but alas times change and days of being a rock n roll subby are slowly being exchanged for long and dreary acts of responsibilty.
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it's the ones less than 6' that ruin me these days....(both ascents and women)
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yeah I'm. moving back to thicker ropes. My big old paws don't like gripping the skinny stuff...ropes I'm on about but applies to women...and sandwiches also.
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anyone got any experience with cousin black widow rope?
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looking at getting the black widow. Is it any good?
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Did you get the rope? Is it any good??
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I learnt to reverse properly, who needs mirrors when you are hanging halfway out of the driver's door?
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Considering a small tipping trailer. Alot of the jobs where I use a small trailer are tight access, or the trailer has to be taken off due to parking. Currently use a small 8x5 single axle Looking at a 10x5 twin axle but conserned it will be a reet PITA when having to shunt it by hand, and for hitching back up, especially on solo jobs. Just wondering if there is good reason for my concerns. Weight of the trailer is about 750kg.
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The ART seems to get stuck alot more than the pulley saver. Pulley saver is cheaper... both are good for choking off on a spar but this advantage is made redundant when you use srt... I personally use the pulley saver for Drt. Multi saver is nice but the mail advantage of being able to anchor in two stems is redundant when you learn srt techniques. thimble saver is good cheaper option for an adjustable cambium saver but pulley saver is the way to go if you do lots dismantling
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Just going to add pfanner have got the zips all wrong. Those on the leg vents sit under the harness leg pads when open and get mashed into the back of the thigh...the waist pockets are also placed in away that can be uncomfortable in the harness.... but mostly its the leg vents... shame as otherwise they are really nice
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Just been trying to find the torque recommendations for my cheap chinese chipper blades it is basically the exact model as the GTM Professional 1300, but not having much luck - IT feels like its a fine line between bolts rattling loose and stripping the threads...judging by these comments i should be aiming for 60Nm or just under or? - any suggestions / reccomendations would be much appreciated.
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HAHA I bet i know which individual over here in Sweden has been spreading such rumours! Not had any issue getting parts for the greenmechs at the crews I work with so as far as I know any supply issue with Greenmech in Sweden is rumour and BS.
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going to give thrse 270ltr bags a try. The sack barrow also means its going to be fairly easy to off load full bags up ramps and onto the trailer. Reckon they won't be full to the brim but guess around 80-90kg a sack with what the little chipper produces
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For any future folk hunting for info.. I got the pfanner black vent type As...decent fit, bit snug but they will loosen a bit. Good flexibility, feel like they will last year's...bit toasty but then its August and 27C so most things are gonna feel toasty...but found husky tech extremes more airy than these vents but tech extremes are made from tissue paper.
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about the same volume as a small wheelie bin...5 ish loads to 1m3.... good enough for me and my wee chipper.
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Due anyone have a rough idea of how big the stein arb trolley sack is? 60lts??
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My extremes are long leg and so are my mates ventilation. no issue with the leg length at 6ft 3 (6ft 4 after a visit to the chiropractor)
