Dilz
-
Posts
1,022 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by Dilz
-
Cheers, will take a look and try that first.
-
Debbon tipping trailer, first ram don't half squeal on its way up and down. Also twice now the trailer has stopped coming down when empty when it reaches the last stage. Has worked just lifting it again and dropping it whilst pulling down a bit on the bed but I don't think it's quite right. Any tips info on what could be causing it and how to fix much appreciated.
-
well in answer to my own question...it was very much worth putting on the new teeth for the big poplar stump, very noticeable difference.
-
got a lski / predator 360 SW . only had it 3 months. done maybe 50 stumps ranging from tiny bush stumps to 80cm conifer stumps. I switched the teeth round to the newedge for a full days work and didn't notice a massive difference and now swapping them for new ones because I've got agreedy poplar stump and a fair birch to grind tomorrow. Just wondering on how warn the old teeth are. No experience of any other teeth apart from finger teeth. Warn tooth ison the left. Doesn't look too bad tbh when compared to the new one. Figure there is maybe plenty of life left I them or??
-
Reduce the harmful effects of exhaust emissions with Aspen Alkylate Petrol
Dilz commented on Steve Bullman's record in News
What's up with the 14hp Kohler ? I rhave one on my Laski 360 stump grinder. Not many hours but starts easy and runs smooth. Only ever use Aspen or other brand akalyte fuel in my saws and small machines both 2 and 4 stroke. Saws and machines run better on it though maybe use a touch more fuel but have had much less engine troubles and a clearer head at the end of a day -
AND...I could justify adding another mid range saw to the collection later....
-
I'm located in Sweden. No where local has one, no place online. Second hand ones are like unicorn 💩. All saw shops here are struggling to get Stihl parts in.
-
now had delivery of a 661 set back another 2 weeks for the 3rd time - total time waited about 8weeks so far... another local shop has got an 881 they keep trying to sell me...its tempting despite already having bought a 36"bar and lo pro set up for a 661 (teach me for counting my horses / saws before they come in I guess) really contemplating selling the bar and chains I've got and forking out the extra pennis (and its a few) for a 881 set up. But the whole idea behind the 661 is that's a saw that I will use also on bigger take downs...880s off a harness is something I'd like to keep as a distant memory if I can help my shoulders...but flip side is 881 is going to be handy if I end up getting some even bigger milling jobs - though it seems overkill as most the stuff I mill for myself is small diameter due to not having a loader to move bigger lumps about. any thoughts much appreciated.
-
with the yellow jacket style teeth...is it best just to sharpen the flat underside or just the outer round edge? saw a special (meaning rather expensive) wheel for yellow jackets that had a special concave / groove that just sharpened the outer edge.
-
Got a Laski 360sw recently. It's my first foray into stump grinder ownership. It came with what look like yellow jacket style teeth (can turn 180 degrees to get a new edge). Wondering what is the best way to go about sharpening them...( though the set that's on has plenty of life in them they will inevitably get worn down )
-
i live in Sweden 😎
-
Ended up getting a Laski 360sw. Local saw shop / agric workshop started to sell them. Did my first real sized stump today. It's decent enough. The pivot is well worth it, and the machine fits in the side of my van.
-
To reduce wear on the chain...The logs had been sat on grass for about 6 months and this after being section felled on muddy ground outside a school so even after a good go with a wire brush I wouldn't consider it clean... and can't think of any reason as to why to keep it on
-
debarked and milled a couple of short cherry logs that had been sat on the ground for 6 months... first time hitting a screw from setting up the ladder 😬. Still impressed how well the echo 620 just chugs on through stuff.
-
apart from the obvious... what items do folk recommend having on site for a chainsaws milling job? All my milling to-date has been at my own place so everything has been to hand..random bits of wood / extra screws / crowbar etc.. Got a fairy comprehensive kit list but wondering what other folk have found useful / must have when milling away from the yard??? thanks for any input
-
Good stuff! It sounds like for the 661 lo pro is probably the way to go - might chance it and go for 42" bar..can always mill small stuff with a bigger bar but probably harder to mill bigger stuff with a smaller bar??
-
what are you milling? how much? what size? how often? what's a low budget as it's all relative. Do you already own chainsaws? if so what size? do you weld/ fabricate stuff. ? Do you want something portable or a bigger stationary set up? what sort of end product quality do you want?
-
I notice all the panther milling kits on the website that are 3/8 are low pro. is this the preferred set up? Right now for a 661 seems like folk are saying that something like the the 40" mill with 36" bar would be a way to go that wouldn't be too much stress on the machine or??
-
spoke to a guy with an f2+ and he says that getting it level is the biggest hassle when moving it to a new site. He also added that due to this you have to move to the logs to mill so a loader is a godsend. I guess it's one of the good points for Alaskan style mills is that you can mill a log in place or not have to move it very far and doest require the log to sit level but takes time setting up the first cut and maybe more work if cutting beams and and rails rather than just boards.
-
a little while like 20 minutes or a couple of hours???
-
How transportable are these logsol f2 / m7 mills? It looks like it can be broken down into sections quite easily...but I figure looks can be deceiving. Idea would be to have it so I can store it my garage when not in use, and also transport it and set it up in folks back yards for a bit of on site milling.
-
I'm in Sweden...so probably cheaper if I buy direct 😉
-
seeing as I'm waiting for a 661 to show up I've been idly looking at different mills. kind of set my sights on a panther mill but remembered about logsol f2 though it's the f2 + I'm more interested in ..Any one used these? a mate bought an f2 but has had no prior milling experience.used it for one day so far... Said hes not got the hang of it yet...but they look like a good portable set up for back garden milling. or are they a massive faff if just doing the odd log ??
-
First crack with the edging mill practice at roughing out a beam (that got turned into stickers) Also tried out the new ripping blade on my table saw. rescued a few bits of mulberry that was one of the first logs I tried milling and stacking.... trimmed off the sap wood and restacked indoors.
-
I've just ordered a 661 - plan to use it for milling as well as on bigger fells. its not going to be in for about a month... So now its time for looking at a bigger mill set up ( currently only using a small log mill) My research has come up with a 661 will run a 3/8 lp set up to about 42" but is maybe a lot of stress on the machine? what are folks thoughts? better to run a smaller bar length and not knacker the saw? Also at what point does a winch on the mill come in handy?? are they worth it??
