Dilz
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Everything posted by Dilz
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from reviews i have read im kind of looking at the Evo 2's the main reason being if i buy the andrew quick step i'll end up forking out for (yet another) foot ascender - although that does look handy for SRT work.
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yeah i own the Andrew chainsaw boots - they are good - though not light weight. I'm tempted by the Andrew none chainsaw boots for pruning in as i use a lot of SRT so the quick step would get used.
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i'll only use em for pruning so spikes doesn't matter. I have quite wide feet - are the clip n steps really narrow on the feet?
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These youths i keep working with are stomping around trees in their lightweight scarpas and ive been convinced to give some climbing / pruning only boots a try. I fancy something with a clip loop for using with a HAAS like the arbpro evo 2s but also like the idea of the Andrew quicksteps (none protective ones.) Any feed back on these type of boots would be much appreciated.
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needle bearing was replaced last time it was on the bench two weeks ago. Had the saw out today and reset the auto tune. I checked with the crew and they said the saw was bought last Autumn so it hadn't been used in anything much over 10C and this last week we have been hitting 20C on site. The idle is still a little rough though - sounds a bit too low but it doesn't stall anymore. Only thing is now is that sometimes the piston catches savagely when starting the saw. But that's another problem for another day.
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ah! you mean it might need re calibrating! could be... it has got really warm and i think the saw is quite new so might be struggling, will check with the company tomorrow to find out when it was first bought but if it hasn't done a summer season then it might be it. Mind you i was wondering if the carb has got some crud in it, as the problem described sounds alot like when a bit of sawdust sits on the diaphragm, but concerned that by taking it off and apart to check then it might bugger up the automatic management.
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That annoying as the local dealer is a more than bit annoying...hence why I'm learning to fix saws and getting asked to fix em
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Got a MS261 come up that apparently isnt running right- Havent had chance to start it yet and see or myself so just going on what my co-worker has told me. and one thing I'm thinking is a possible issue with the carb... thing is i have yet to strip one of these ItelliCarbs (TM..) Not too sure about them or if I can suspect to have any problems I just treat it like I would the good old regular fix it with just a screwdriver carbs of yesteryear. Any tips or advice much appreciated.
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managed to have a check on the airfilter screw and yup - there are bits busted of the back of the screw so 100% certain this is what caused it.
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A lot depends on oil type, the setting and then the temp - now things are warming up most of our saws are chugging through oil nicely - though I think it is kind of design that the oil tank doesn't empty vs 1 full tank of fuel - this is in case whoever refills the saw forgets to fill the oil.
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Considering getting a pressure testing kit as i dont have one yet and figure it could be good to save rebuilding saws to then strip them back down when something is wrong as well as helping to find out what is wrong. Are they worth getting and if so any none too expensive options out there people recommend?
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you checked the filter in the oil tank? I had a saw that had air blown into the pipe leading to the tank and it popped the oilfilter off and no one noticed and thus the pump kept on getting clogged. Other than that do what haironyourchest said and see if that helps.
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Thanks. Next question...for the oiling after reasembly. Should I use something specific? All my saws are run on aspen (swedish rules) in case that makes a difference.
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I think spud has it. There is a bur on the inlet where the bit of the screw must have hit. Its been bugging me what it was that caused it. Will make sure to check it. Is there a decent method of cleaning the bearings incase any small bits of chewed metal have worked their way in or a is it better not to risk it and just replace them?
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So took this ms200t apart today as a part of my teaching myself about how to fix stuff project. Not sure what caused it - but its a new piston for sure. There is some damage in the crankcase where what i guess is the bit of skirt that drop off has gouged into the metal a bit - Figure i can get away with smoothing that down with a dremel and some wet and dry - or is that not going to work? I notice some soot or something like in the crankcase - is this normal?? (pics below) Also - due to my location getting parts for stihl is a nightmare - i ususally get stuff from Ebay - but does anyone have any recommendations for ebay sellers selling new pot and a pistons - lot of ships from hongkong on there - though if those parts will work ok then thats cool - but they are a bit too cheap....
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Some new regulations rumored to be coming into place in Sweden saying that when using a saw which any bigger than a climbing saw class 2 protection is needed - some muppet stuffed a 361 into his leg with his finger jamming it on full revs - his leg didnt like it too much....and now the equivelant health and safety is pushing for all operators to wear class 2 protection in case we jam a saw into our legs with it stuck on full revs - ¨ I have some class 2 type C gladiators....i wore them once in -15C on a day when i didnt have to move about very much - in anything warmer or more active i find i sweat buckets and they are about as flexible as a lead pipe. Short of it is - what can class 1's actually stop? i need to get off my behind and find all the various chainspeeds for saws and bar setups - but just trying to arm myself for the inevitable inquisition as to why I justify wearing class 1 (apart from obvious heat stroke issues)
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First time doing a bit of a fix on a MS261. Needle bearing disintergrated on it. Wanted to remove the clutch to look for any debris and to just to check it out due to some other reported issues with the saw, but couldn't get the clutch off so the saw was handed to me. Can not for the life of me get the clutch off. Two issues - one is before i had a go it was attempted to be removed by being turned the wrong way using an impact wrench... Secondly I'm really struggling with the piston angle and jamming a piston stop in - it just keeps getting pushed out or even the usualy bit of old knotted thorwline trick.... perhaps i need to get one of the screw in stops...?? I took the clutch off an old 360 just to check i wasnt being too retarded and had no probelms... any tips much appreciated.
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A 560xp stop oiling. When i got it I emptied the oil tank - found that the metal oil filter had come off the pipe - which is probably why the pump got clogged and the saw stopped oiling. I then noticed some pieces of black stuff that i assume are from the gasket - its the only thing i can think that it is to get in there like that as the pieces where not so small - There are no oil leaks and the saw runs so I guess its from some over lap of the gasket hanging into the tank that has some how perished? maybe from the oil over heating when its been trapped in the tank? Or is it likely something else? (i.e do i need to strip the saw and replace the tank gasket)
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At the moment i prefer the ZZ and wrench set up over a VT - I climb on cougar blue and orange, I thought it was nice and smooth on ascending, and the real winner for me is using it when branch walking as I dont have to give it a bit of shove to get moving like i did when using a VT and RW, there is virtually no sit back and i find it much more comfortable walking in and slack tending with it. It works well jsut grabbing the tether and shoving the system up - something that with the sit back on VT isnt as effective imop -also the ZZ looks more shiny.
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Hello! was wondering if anyone has any opinions on using Treetags vs GPS locating every tree. Understand tree tags can come off but I have never used GPS for marking tree locations - maybe time to hire some computer wizz kid...
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I been using a tree runner p500 bollard for years now and would never go back to a crapstan, and to be fair the p500 copes with just about everything. ITs the winch part of the Stein that is interesting / useful and the fact that it is removable and thus you dont have to take the full thing out to every job is a really good idea. It looks like its a lot easier than setting up a serperate lifting system.
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So the stein 3001 bollard and winch - is it any good? apart from being less than half the price of GRCS.....
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just switched to the Andrews after a decade of Haix protector pros - I too have weird feet - i bought the 47s which at first felt massive and stuck and extra insole in - it took a week or so the break em and at first they were not very comfy but now they are getting there - I prefer the Haix PPs for spiking and ground work as the higher boot is better for those swampy areas... That said I'm not doing so much line clearance and more pruning work these days and the grip is top notch on the Andrews though they are not a light weight boot...but great if you have wide feet.
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SRT devices banned from the Swedish Climbing comp
Dilz replied to Dilz's topic in SRT (Single Rope Technique)
also i want this years event to go ahead as i plan to be a judge or something.....got to get those CEU's!! -
SRT devices banned from the Swedish Climbing comp
Dilz replied to Dilz's topic in SRT (Single Rope Technique)
Well when I asked the event organizer why after the RW being available on the market in various forms for what? 10 years ish? is it now all of a sudden a problem that it is not CE marked... the answer i got was that some one made a complaint and the German Trading standards banned it...but as to who brought up the issue that resulted in not only the sale of the rope runner and BDB but the RW as well i can only guess...on that note anyone bought the spiderjack 3? not seen any in the flesh yet... and anyone remember when Germany banned its nationals from using a chainsaw in the tree...funny how that didnt apply to the rest of the EU...
