Dilz

Today i had a go using a bowline on a bite, cinched it on the life line side with a 3-way locking krab - worked well enough for advancing the system to a final tie in point and the Krab doesn't get side loaded so long as it doesnt magically twist around when you are pulling up - hasn't happend yet. I think i picked up the idea from Treebuzz

Im using pretty much the same setup - It works well and its not too much trouble to swtich back to a DdRT set up. - I also have a 30cm tether and reckon a shorter on would be a bit nicer with it.

its different for different people and depends on your set up - I use to use a hitch climber because of the extra hole. now i climb with w wrench and zig zag with a D-shackle in the top hole - so i clip into the D shackle. I prefer to clip low down / on to the hitch as this really helps advance it. Check out the simarghu tether. it has an integrated attachment loop.

8mm on 11m climbing lines - maybe 11.5mm. everything else 10mm - 11.7nn line with 10mm hitch is a winner for me

Alas i fear it would just be an inferior blend of Aspen, redbull infused piss, and spit tinged with just the faintest hint of Marlborough lights, but i doubt I (nor the groundies) could tell the difference.

you have a few options - alot will depend on what you will use - e.g neck or chest thingy - or even the good old over the shoulder lanyard. I use to have a small bit of throw line to make a loop on the wrench itself to help advance the system - doesnt work so well with a chest harness mind - You can do the saw to the pulley wheel - just have a little loop of throw line running through the eyes and then clip into that - another option is either make a loop on the stiff tether or buy the stiff thether with the little attachment loop already in it - i like this set up when using a chest harness - but i usually use a neck bungee now though.

Ended up using my pulley save to make a retrievable top anchor. Dont think i have read about it any place but it did seem to work well and pulled out ok despite going through a couple of NC re-directs- the set up was the same as when i use a normal cambium saver in this set up - using a Alpine butterfly backed up with a krab - the only danger i really see is the pulley wheel busting - the load could be a bit oddly balanced on it - but figured the becket would stop any major accidents. Anyone else used this method? Also - the tail end that runs to the ground for retrieval - could this be used as an emergency access line?

well ive gone for the Arbpro evo'2 s - it states that they shouldn't be used for ground work because of the softer grippy soles so - sorry lads - get dragging!

I fell out with my 4 SRT foot loop - I bought the one meant for chainsaw boots but it was too tight to get right over my size 47 canoe like Andrews, this meant it sat funny on my toe end and it also wore through after about 2 months as it was a massive pain to put on and off so it got stomp around on the ground a fair bit - hence the desire for something where it the loop is intergrated into the boot.

from reviews i have read im kind of looking at the Evo 2's the main reason being if i buy the andrew quick step i'll end up forking out for (yet another) foot ascender - although that does look handy for SRT work.

yeah i own the Andrew chainsaw boots - they are good - though not light weight. I'm tempted by the Andrew none chainsaw boots for pruning in as i use a lot of SRT so the quick step would get used.

i'll only use em for pruning so spikes doesn't matter. I have quite wide feet - are the clip n steps really narrow on the feet?

These youths i keep working with are stomping around trees in their lightweight scarpas and ive been convinced to give some climbing / pruning only boots a try. I fancy something with a clip loop for using with a HAAS like the arbpro evo 2s but also like the idea of the Andrew quicksteps (none protective ones.) Any feed back on these type of boots would be much appreciated.

needle bearing was replaced last time it was on the bench two weeks ago. Had the saw out today and reset the auto tune. I checked with the crew and they said the saw was bought last Autumn so it hadn't been used in anything much over 10C and this last week we have been hitting 20C on site. The idle is still a little rough though - sounds a bit too low but it doesn't stall anymore. Only thing is now is that sometimes the piston catches savagely when starting the saw. But that's another problem for another day.

ah! you mean it might need re calibrating! could be... it has got really warm and i think the saw is quite new so might be struggling, will check with the company tomorrow to find out when it was first bought but if it hasn't done a summer season then it might be it. Mind you i was wondering if the carb has got some crud in it, as the problem described sounds alot like when a bit of sawdust sits on the diaphragm, but concerned that by taking it off and apart to check then it might bugger up the automatic management.

That annoying as the local dealer is a more than bit annoying...hence why I'm learning to fix saws and getting asked to fix em

Got a MS261 come up that apparently isnt running right- Havent had chance to start it yet and see or myself so just going on what my co-worker has told me. and one thing I'm thinking is a possible issue with the carb... thing is i have yet to strip one of these ItelliCarbs (TM..) Not too sure about them or if I can suspect to have any problems I just treat it like I would the good old regular fix it with just a screwdriver carbs of yesteryear. Any tips or advice much appreciated.

managed to have a check on the airfilter screw and yup - there are bits busted of the back of the screw so 100% certain this is what caused it.

A lot depends on oil type, the setting and then the temp - now things are warming up most of our saws are chugging through oil nicely - though I think it is kind of design that the oil tank doesn't empty vs 1 full tank of fuel - this is in case whoever refills the saw forgets to fill the oil.

Considering getting a pressure testing kit as i dont have one yet and figure it could be good to save rebuilding saws to then strip them back down when something is wrong as well as helping to find out what is wrong. Are they worth getting and if so any none too expensive options out there people recommend?

you checked the filter in the oil tank? I had a saw that had air blown into the pipe leading to the tank and it popped the oilfilter off and no one noticed and thus the pump kept on getting clogged. Other than that do what haironyourchest said and see if that helps.

Thanks. Next question...for the oiling after reasembly. Should I use something specific? All my saws are run on aspen (swedish rules) in case that makes a difference.

I think spud has it. There is a bur on the inlet where the bit of the screw must have hit. Its been bugging me what it was that caused it. Will make sure to check it. Is there a decent method of cleaning the bearings incase any small bits of chewed metal have worked their way in or a is it better not to risk it and just replace them?

So took this ms200t apart today as a part of my teaching myself about how to fix stuff project. Not sure what caused it - but its a new piston for sure. There is some damage in the crankcase where what i guess is the bit of skirt that drop off has gouged into the metal a bit - Figure i can get away with smoothing that down with a dremel and some wet and dry - or is that not going to work? I notice some soot or something like in the crankcase - is this normal?? (pics below) Also - due to my location getting parts for stihl is a nightmare - i ususally get stuff from Ebay - but does anyone have any recommendations for ebay sellers selling new pot and a pistons - lot of ships from hongkong on there - though if those parts will work ok then thats cool - but they are a bit too cheap....

Some new regulations rumored to be coming into place in Sweden saying that when using a saw which any bigger than a climbing saw class 2 protection is needed - some muppet stuffed a 361 into his leg with his finger jamming it on full revs - his leg didnt like it too much....and now the equivelant health and safety is pushing for all operators to wear class 2 protection in case we jam a saw into our legs with it stuck on full revs - ¨ I have some class 2 type C gladiators....i wore them once in -15C on a day when i didnt have to move about very much - in anything warmer or more active i find i sweat buckets and they are about as flexible as a lead pipe. Short of it is - what can class 1's actually stop? i need to get off my behind and find all the various chainspeeds for saws and bar setups - but just trying to arm myself for the inevitable inquisition as to why I justify wearing class 1 (apart from obvious heat stroke issues)