Ben90
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Everything posted by Ben90
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Nice one. Hope the tech cert is going well, I'm due to start mine in september. I've already had a read through BS5837, it's thrilling stuff! What would be some good things to learn/brush-up on before the course starts?
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Yep, I've recently sent off the deposit for mine at Westonbirt, 1700 + vat = £2000
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Maybe if you duct-tape 12 helicopters together they can hold an 020!
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Great, it's about time I learned more fungi!
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She's b-e-a-utiful!
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Last 2 episodes of Top Gear
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Oh my goodness! Is that a 200t with a 16" bar?
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There's freerunning and then there's this. Incredible.
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Yeah, I heard that it's 'designed for aerial works only' Probably because it's only been tested at height since it was/is a rock climbing helmet. I'm sure it'd stand up fine on the ground too. All seems to be in order, unless you tend to work around molten metal...
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Can't beat it!
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Hey Sean, sorry to bother you but it appears on the first page of the bs3998, it says some guff about it being a draft and 'not to be regarded as the british standards.' I'm sure you sent the correct document, I was just checking if the content was the same in the draft as it is in the final version. Many thanks.
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or at all
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Woah, me likey the bookshelf!
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Aah Ginkgo biloba, the duck-tailed platypus of the tree world.
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Softwood is wood formed within conifers, or gymnosperms, such as yew, cypress, pine, spruce etc. and most often use sap Hardwood is wood cut from angiosperms, those are most commonly broad-leaved trees such as oak, ash and beech, lime the list goes on The names can suggest to some that softwood is soft, and hardwood is hard. This is not the case. It's all to do with how the 2 different types of trees reproduce and 'lay down' their cellulose and lignin to create wood, nothing to do with their comparative strength. Balsa wood, which is an angiosperm, is a hardwood but is very soft and brittle, whereas yew is a softwood (gymnosperm), but is very dense and strong.
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This is definitely the way to go. Spending a sunday afternoon tidying up/throwing out junk is not only therapeutic in the short term, it also makes life run more smoothly in the long term. It's all about working smarter, not harder.
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Hahahaha that's amazing
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Hey guys. The letter just came through today from Tree Life with a nice big list of suggested reading, a few of which are essential. If it's simple enough to email/photocopy/whatever me the documents below that would be brilliant. I heard it could be done, and I'd definitely prefer that to shelling out the cash for copies of my own BS5837 : 2005 - Trees in relation to Construction BS3998 :1989 (?) - Recommendations for Tree Work
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I'm going to go with number 4.
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I'm sure it's in a sub-paragraph somewhere about photo opporunitys. Great pictures by the way
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I keep a folding knife in my work bag and I quite often find myself using it to cut off old tree ties and tubes on the job. I've got one; our town council did a huge community tree planting project on a slope near the river avon, needless to say half of the trees can now longer be seen for brambles.
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Probably a good idea.
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Did you re-sit the cap properly? There's one position the Stihl cap ends up in which looks very similar to how it's supposed to lock but it's not seated quite right as it moves slightly. Make sure to give it a good push down when you turn. That is if the leak is coming from the cap side.. And Slash, doesn't it have to go through the worm-drive pump first? Which means the saw has to be run (with the chainbrake off) before oil can (or should) leave through that side.
