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smiles

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Everything posted by smiles

  1. I could be wrong - mines only a WP30,but I thought that the chain oil was pumped by the small cylinder by the hydraulic pump,set the stroke of the cylinder to govern the amount of oil dosed each time.
  2.  

    <p>Hi Tim</p>

    <p>I know the post I saw was a few years ago,but are you still keen on getting hold of some woodchip,I'm quoting for a job down your way,but my yards up on Ashdown forest,so a local drop would be good if you do still want it - no connie!</p>

    <p>Many Thanks</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  3. Must stop the short bits dropping out and getting caught on the wheels I guess - although that could well be down to my crane skills!
  4. Hi SMG,probably a stupid question - but did it come with four pairs of bolsters? mines only got two pairs and I always think it could do with some more - perhaps they are just spec'd as required? Cheers Steve
  5. CP Machinery in Newhaven had them available for trials a few years ago - think they might also hire them out,they were very helpful when I enquired about them.
  6. Thanks All for your help - much appreciated. Tomtom,you have a PM! Cheers Steve
  7. not been tipped in my ownership,not sure about the previous life though! the oil level on the tractor is going down,quite alarmingly now. Slew cylinders,thats the right word - not noticable as to which side it is - seems to start leaking as soon as the tractor starts pumping the stuff. Guess I need to find some new seals then. Cheers Steve
  8. I've had a gentle leak on the kingpost (i think it's called) on my 38D and was wondering if anyone can confirm where it's coming from? It's no longer quite so gentle,in fact a bit of a gusher now! The oil is coming out from the large flange above the rotating cylinders in the picture. I'd assume that one or more of the rotating cyliders is leaking and the oil coming up through the top flange/swivel,but would welcome any advice that anyone has to offer. Cheers Steve
  9. Parts are easily available from TrackMaster in Burgess Hill,Blades are kept on stock and weren't too exorbitant last time i bought some - I'd imagine that TrackMaster do a pretty good parts delivery if you don't have anyone closer. Lots of careful snedding and go gentle with the wet connie! Cheers Steve
  10. I got a bigger one,might have been 15L - can't remember exactly,from Ray Fosters at Turners Hill last year I think - worked out to be very good value !
  11. I think that once split it will last considerably longer that when left in the round - because the bark retains moisture and the split faces can let the moisture out.
  12. Speak to Natural England about a license,they can grant the license for working near - or even above a sett - helps if the sett isn't active during the proposed works.The people that I've spoken to have been very helpful.
  13. Love this dragon B C Trees - is it open to the public at all,right up my boys street?
  14. Yeah - just leave the brackets a fair bit loose,not broken any brackets yet,but it is only a 130 twin cab tub,so dosen't carry the weight of a 110 full length,a mate has broken several brackets on one of these. If the brackets are loose enough you can wiggle the bar either way to enable the tailgate latches to operate.
  15. Birch and Hazel both do nicely in mine,have heard conflicting reports about chestnut,some say don't bother whereas others say its the best thing! need to try some when i get round to it
  16. Thanks for all the replies - I know that Merino is the best,can't avoid it - mate imports it fom Norway (Nordiclife) and is a little evangelical to say the least ! but can't bring myself to put it through work/snags/bonfires . Forgot to mention the need for the zip,So thanks Swampster - will be giving them a go. Cheers Steve
  17. Can any of you chaps recommend a decent,thin baselayer fleece - my usual get up for this time of year is a Brynje mesh (string vest!) with a nice thin fleece followed by the company t-shirt,but struggling to find a nice thin fleece for around the £15-£20 mark,all my old ones are getting embarrassingly battered,the thick ones just get too hot - so any recommendations gratefully recieved. Cheers Steve
  18. From an expensive experience I can say it's down to you - when the service engineers appear on a call out they ask for your drawings,and then start tutting at your blank expression! You should have drawings from all the utilities companies before you start digging - and then consider a CAT type scan if there are any shown near to the digging site to identify the runs for those that are detectable - also worth a look at your insurance,mine had this procedure word for word pretty much - so the £2k came out of my pocket
  19. Always great service from Rob at MCA Kingstone.
  20. There was a thread on here that had heavily subsidised training at plumpton - but don't think it actually led to an assessment,the next course was at the beginning of Sept.
  21. nice vid Woodworks - how long does the gassing phase last with your set up? Do you find that both barrels process at the same rate,mine seem to do it at very different rates,sometimes one finished nearly an hour before the other!
  22. I sell my small selway bags for £5.00 direct and for £4.50 to a couple of retail outlets - who then sell on for around the £6.00 mark - so reckon your about right. Struggle to get anymore than 2kg into these bags though,so sell for £2.00 a kilo in feed bags to local fetes etc.
  23. ARMCO barrier - not sure of the spelling,but the stuff they use for roadside barriers,has been good for this,like rails!
  24. Pull mine out of the back on a loadhandler,then when you get to the tipping point,a sharp tug and stand back!! most of the time the bag lands openside down,then just hoick it off using the handles on the bottom of the bag and you're away!
  25. I would have thought that another strut or two horizontally between the barrels and another leg or four should do it for the frame,but then be careful that the barrels don't deform with the heat and the weight of the char wood!

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