treequip
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Everything posted by treequip
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You can use any of it for NC but its not as kind as using a pulley and friction device so your nice rope will get grubby and "fur up" Google Antal ring, (they are re branded as X rings). They are lighter than pulleys and very user friendly They give a little friction but not too much. Don't use them with Pollyprop or any UHMWPE (Dyneema and the like). Heat build up and low melt point materials can be a disaster.
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Haven't seen green mile but wasn't that Shawshank?
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But the point is they do have to pay
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That was on the Mac van I don't ask for "what's on sale", I ask for what I need
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Sirius would be my choice
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Those prices were on the van:thumbdown:
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Now I am not normally one to baulk at the price of tools but the last Mac franchise I visited had eye watering prices that would make the price gougers at Snap On wince.
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I get what I need from the local supplier, there are plenty of facom agents that operate out of a van supplying mechanics/various garages. For A/F you might have to special order As far as quality goes they are hard to beat, snap off will whore the brand out putting the name to anything from a spanner to a drinks mug, Facom make tool instead of making a tool of you. You do however need the fortitude to get over the "cheese eating surrender monkey" aspect:laugh1:
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What you are asking for is A/F sizes (fractional). You can get Facom in any size, they even do whitworth
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Well made vid, the part at 5:15 is particularly interesting, try that with your file:laugh1:
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I saw a display in a posh London shop where the nice man had just fitted several bar and chains, all the wrong way, to be fair he did realise they could be wrong but didn't know which way they ran:001_rolleyes:
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It will take a good edge and as long as you only use it as a marking implement it will be fine, retired files used to be used as scrapers. Heat treating can be used to alter the properties of steel, it changes the structure giving it different characteristics within the limits of its composition.
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I have been forging for many years and am familiar so I don't need to look it up, I have seen it before. I am not saying files aren't a ready source of high carbon steel but I am saying its not the ideal alloy for a knife, it is however common as muck and that's what makes it a popular choice. What I am saying is that leaf springs are also an excellent source of material but its not in handy little lumps like files
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This "mystery steels" thing is a bit of a workshop misnomer. Vehicle springs need to be and are consistent and predictable, the only difference in response will be due to dimensional differences
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Most of the people I know that put hammer to anvil use files because they are cheap as chips and in good supply. They accept the limitations if the material and many tailor the blade profile to accommodate the shortcomings Old files are indeed consistent, consistently the wrong material.
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Silky blades are good but need several and a lot of hammer work to get them to thickness and since they are induction hardened you loose those qualities, other than that they make a good fish filleting knife if you are looking for something fun to hit with a hammer, saw chain makes a good "damask" looking steel.
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I am guessing you mean unknown qualities. The properties of the steel used in leaf springs is as well known and understood as any other steel and just as easy to heat treat.
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Clearly no need for that, you have clearly stated it for all of us to read I thought getting the facts straight was helping fellow members, I do apologise if my "superior knowledge" has offended you but the facts speak for themselves
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Leaf springs are one of the better choices
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But you were preaching it like the gospel, same as you are preaching the files as material issue. Simple fact is that its not the correct material for a knife but it is for a file. In a nutshell there is too much carbon in files which makes them brittle and less than ideal as knife material. The reason there is a lot on the web about making knives from files is that they are made of something better than a plain mild steel, they are cheap, plenty full and are roughly the right dimensions from the get go.
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Me too, then I saw the light
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Some confusion surely? Annealing and tempering are different things, annealing improves/restores ductility where as tempering is used to alter the characteristics of hardened materials.
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Files are a tad too brittle for a general purpose knife but work well if the steel is forged into a softer body to make a composite blade. Making composites is a lot of skilled work and they are also much harder to sharpen than more conventional materials. A circular saw blade can be re used in knife making. Modern carbide tipped blades rely principally on the hardness of the tip for durability and are likely have a lower quality steel body than an "old school" blade, which would be my choice.
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Yes you can, if you couldn't they wouldn't be making them like that:confused1:
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The advantage of the tight eye is that it keeps the biner (or what have you) better aligned and reduces the chance of side loading.
