Justme

You seem to be confusing C1 with class one. If you have BE then take C1 7500kg you can still only tow 750kg with eth C1. Dont take BE take C1 & then C1E you then get BE as well FOC. Class 1 is a lorry up to 32000kg towing a trailer over 750kg up to a 44000kg GTW unless you also hold an STGO

For arb work I really strongly suggest you look at C1 & C1E. Virtually all 3500kg vehicle will be overloaded. The rules on 3500kg vehicles will eventually be the same as for bigger ones so get ahead of the game now. With me BE costs £650 inc test fee To gain C1 (up to 7500kg) costs:- medical £70 Theory & hazard course & tests £70 Practical course & test 700 If you need DCPC course & tests £220 To add C1E to tow a combine combination up to 12000kg will add another £700.

We currently have a 4 month waiting list.

Is £50 more really that much?

NO it does not.

Can you read numbers on pumps & then check spec?

I think its more could it cut the full 18" & I would say no. The bigger the log the battery life drops dramatically. I wanted longer for ease of use not the cut length. The frictional difference 2" will make when not actually cutting would be tiny. 4" of extra friction on top of 32" but in a log the demand will be lots more.

I have a 220 I bought it with the 2" above standard bar. I think that makes it the 16" With standard chain spec.

If I put all the log deck parts on the trailer with full fuels ect then the trailer actually weighs 3650kg. When coupled up I have the nose weight bag on 150kg so the trailer is then bang on 3500kg. Every time I want to modify it I either have to remove weight some how or load deck on vehicle. I am tempted to up rate to electric brakes so I can increase the MLPM to the full 4500kg that the axles would allow. But thats quite a cost option as I would also need new hitch & brake controller too. Plus an engineers report as I cant see Iffor doing it. I did want the Tajfun 480 but that weighs a lot more than the Dunn420. I can see my next build will be on a 7500kg 4x4 chassis cab. That should give me 3500-4000kg of build allowance. Then can have powered deck, bigger crane & bigger processor. Possibly even a solution for over sized logs too. Also much easier then to prove exemption from O licence too.

At the moment I am not sure. I want to do more jobs with the big one to see if I can keep it busy without the smaller jobs. I have a splitter & power pack for ring jobs too.

I love it. Me & my son can do 25 IBC's per day from lengths or man handelable sized arb waste lengths (2-4 foot) & nearly that on suitable rings. Its small light & easy to look after. I did put it up for sale once to buy a newer WP36 but that fell through. It could be up for sale at some point as I now also have this monster with deck, crane & its own engine. But the WP30 is good for the smaller house sized jobs.

The cheap ones have you moving in odd ways so the back will still have issues. If you cant keep it in a large dry shed it wont last 10 years especially the cheaper imports. You will also have quite large running costs over that 10 years too. Even just chains & bar lube add up quick never mind the fuel. (made up numbers of top of head) That £50 per hour will have about £10 per hour or more just for the chains oils & fuel. Another £10 for maintenance & another £10 for the cost of buying / replacing the machine. You will still have those costs too so only saving the labour element by doing it yourself. The smaller cheaper ones are also still quite hands on / manual work. Which ever way you go good luck.

I have a WP30 the older slightly lower spec version.

They dont come up very often & sell quick for good reason.

I would say dont buy a processor for that amount of use. A 25T load would be about 2 days work for me & if you were local that would be about £800 to hire the processor & two operators. I am sure you will have a local processor that will be able to offer similar or better rates. Take into account running costs, purchase costs, depreciation and that your not doing the work (if you were it would take a lot longer than two days) its a no brainer. Other option would be to buy a walking floor trailer load already split. The cheap imports all seem to be quite low speed units. The one you quote is particularly bad, still needing lots of manual work. Its also sold under other names too. Rima Rock Note how much movement the operator has to do, reach up to pull saw down, reach down to hold log, reach left to split log, reach to the side to move log, pull the log when partly cut ect ect. After doing that dance all day you will hurt. It will also seriously reduce the amount you can do in a day. In the Rock video at 4.04 seconds watch how long it takes from touching the saw handle to do a full cycle to touch the handle again. Just a tad under 20 seconds. In that time I would do 4 cycles. Are they better than a saw & axe yes. But you might be better with a used professional unit or as I said hire in as you need it. Also most are not road legal in the UK (not sure on Irish rules).

2450 & 1850 but not at same time lol. So with driver about 700kg of load. Thats not much for an arb truck. A 20ft tree is easily going to weigh that. I recon I can see an easy 1t+ in that pile. Your pic seems to have plenty of logs in it too. From memory that model has what look like odd shaped springs.

Weight it & find out. I bet you are surprised in a not so pleasant way.

We never took up the B96 but do accept it from other countries.

Actually any alternative fuel would also be the same.

So what number do you chose? 4.3 4.4 5.0? Got to be a cut off at some point. They did not have to give any extension at all. Personally I think you might as well do the C1 & get lots more capacity as the approved courses are only available from a few place so will be a premium price.

If you do an approved course you can drive up to 4250kg elec vehicle on a cat B licence

Its a super light all Ali trailer base so could just be under 3500kg (but I think the 6 bag load might have put it over). However IF that Ram tow vehicle was imported without down plating it could be a C1 vehicle & you could go to 8250kg with a UK C1E 107 or IF the trailer has active brakes then you could go up to 12000kg with a full UK C1E.

With just 0.8m3 of storage how can they realistically season their own wood?

This seems to imply that small producers might be exempt & that it might actually be ready to burn / it is dry even though you have to also give a note that says its not dry & must be dried for 2 years. Have they now removed small scale from the regs too? How small is small scale? Or is that just for the first year? Selling wood for domestic use in England - GOV.UK WWW.GOV.UK What you need to do to supply, distribute and sell wood for use in domestic heating appliances in England. Crates or trailer loads of wood You do not need to get wood fuel sales of 2 cubic metres or more certified. You can include a note when you deliver the wood to explain it is dry. Suppliers who sell wood in volumes of 2 cubic metres or more must provide customers with this notice that explains how to dry, store and check the moisture of the wood before it is used. This also applies to small-scale wood producers.

The official over 2m3 notice has been updated. No mention that home meters will read 25% when its at the legislative 20% limit. They have kept the two 2 year scare tactics statement. Updated 26 March 2021 If you sell wood in volumes of 2 cubic metres or more in England you must provide customers with this notice: “This wood is not suitable for burning until it has been dried. You should not burn wood until it has a moisture content of 20% or less. “Wet wood contains moisture which creates smoke and harmful particulates when burnt. As well as being harmful to your health and the environment, this can damage your stove and chimney and is an inefficient way to heat your home. Dry it in a sunny, well-aired space for at least two years, keeping rain off in the winter. “Radial cracks and bark that comes off easily suggests wood that is ready for burning. Test the wood when you think it is ready for burning, ideally with a moisture meter. First calibrate the meter and then measure a freshly split surface to get the best reading.”