Alycidon

It occurs to me then that ash should be felled now while it is uninfected, no doubt getting permission for that would be impossible, probably just as well !! A

How much volume/weight?. A

Cheesboards, I did buy some of these a couple of years ago, the guy said oil them occasionally with Olive oil applied with a brush, wipe off the excess before it dries. I have found them very slow sellers so I would not make a huge pile, I was selling from £6 upward for spalted beech ones. A

Geodis maybe?. A

Agreed, burning pop in my stove showroom at present. Burnt willow at home for most of last winter. A

Typically this year my hard is going out at 16-19%, this time last year with a dryer summer was 10-15%. This is stock processed spring/summer last year and kept in bags in a barn with three covered sides. Have put 30 bags or so this summer in a barn with one covered side, be interesting to see how that comes out. A

Decent well made stoves, Contura are owned by the group that also own Nordpies and another Scandinavian brand. A

Got a friend that might be interested, have txted him about your post. A

Just be carefull that the stove does not get to hot burning soft, you can easily get the external temp to 500 degrees. This is called over firing and can seriously damage a stove. Use a stove pipe thermometer. A

Downwind of Chernoble round there, hope they dont glow in the dark !!, A

Pop in and see me and I will give you step by step instruction sheet that I write for all the stoves I sell. For the rest of you: A, Burning wood, set the fire on a bed of about 16-20mm of ash, this ash will protect the grate against the fire burning through it. To light, primary (lower) and secondary (upper) air supply full open, once fire is established close the LOWER air supply and regulate the stove using the upper (secondary ) air supply only. Let the ash level build up, wood burns from the top downwards. B, Burning smokeless fuel or Anthracite ( natural smokeless coal). Set the fire on the grate which is reasonably clear of ash. Open primary and secondary air supplies fully. Once fire is established leave secondary (upper) air supply fully open, regulate fire using primary (lower) air supply. When refuelling move excess ash down into ash pan to allow oxygen direct access to the fire. These fuels require a lot more oxygen than wood. C, Do not burn ordinary house coal in a stove, in burns very dirtily and can in low oxygen situations explode if the door is opened and a mass of oxygen allowed to enter the stove, the blast is called backdraft by firemen. Hope that helps. A

A piece of wood contains so much energy, when you put it into the stove ( or open fire) the first thing that this energy does is to evaporate the remaining water. The remaining energy is then converted into heat, so the dryer the log the more heat comes from it. All wood when it burns it gives off gases, these gases contain creosote. In shutting the stove down you are asking the stove to spread the heat release over maybe six hours instead on one hour. What happens when you close the oxygen supply to the stove is that there is no top air coming in, so black glass, the temperature after maybe a hour drops below the combustion point of the creosote, the creosote then gets into the chimney where it condenses and lines the chimney with tar. If you then have a max burn the next morning you may well set fire to that tar in the chimney. So if burning overnight with wood fill stove with big bits, allow to get nice and hot and them close down maybe a third, no more. Your stove will still be warm in the morning and you may have some embers left to start the next days fire. I would recommend using smokeless fuel or anthracite for overnight burning but be aware that: A, the grate needs to be clearish of wood ash as these fuels burn from the bottom up and are regulated by the primary air supply bringing in air under the fire ( secondary air supply is fully open to keep glass clean. these fuels require more oxygen than wood) B, Smokeless fuels are almost entirely imported, they have a very high sulpher content, when burnt under low oxygen the flue gases contain Sulphuric Acid which will attack 316 grade flue liner. A full power burn the next day will help get rid of them but for regular smokeless fuel use then 904 grade liner is a must. The warranty on most 316 grade liners only cover burning wood with occasional smokeless use. Think I have covered most points, will add another post if not. A

Depends really what you are selling, if inconsistent length and diameters with un split logs in the bag then its a budget product. I sell a cubic meter in a bag, split, consistent length and diameter, MC 13-16% at present, so a premium product, all Ash, Cherry, Beech or Sycamore, 115.50 for hard, 84 for soft including VAT. A builder bag is 80x80x80 so half a cube. I take the view that the delivery costs are the same for a half cube as a cube so it makes more sense to deliver a bigger bag and make more money. If the prices on your post are for half cube I would suggest they are a bit high. I have people here selling budget from £60 per full cube. Mixed hard and soft on a 50/50 basis then 100 + VAT (105) would be fair for a cubic meter, so £50 for half a cube + VAT at 5%. Delivered free within 5 miles. A

Recommend you use a HETAS registered installer. If not make sure you get it signed off as safe to use by a building inspector or you will be open to prosecution for breech of building regs. I usually advise that in the case of a fire your insurance would also be invalid but someone pointed out earlier this week that this may not be the case. A

Have a look at the Nottingham Energy partnership costs comparison chart. Last time I looked that showed logs at about the same price per kw as gas currently is. A

Good man, given time it works, let the wind blow through but keep the rain off if yo can. That will burn nicely and give a lot of heat. A

bag supplies, 800x800x800. 3.35 ea + VAt + carraige in 50s. SG Baker Ltd also do some but prices seem dearer, quality look ok at teh APF show. Have used Bag supplies myself for a couple of years, decent quality bags.

Suggest you chase Gerrymet for a cost. A

Suggest that you go and see what and how much they bought, take a moisture meter. A

Its all about energy saving and energy efficiency ratings that all new building must reach. A

If it has been through a harvester these can strip some of the bark which will let some of teh moisture out. I would guess that the MC as it stands would be about 25%-27%, process it put it under cover for a few weeks and it should be down to 20% ish. Best results are with a MC of 12 - 15%, so what you have is sellable, most log sellers are selling 25% + stuff but if you can it will be far better processed now, stored and sold from next July onwards. A

Funny on a previous reply that someone mentioned that 90x90x90 was a cubic metre of firewood!!! And that is a company that do a lot of firewood using timber generated from railway line veg clearance. I would be surprised if he is not a member here. A

Well for use as a log grab AND as a bag holder on the end of the conveyor for a single handed set up then the RIKO arms look like conventional fork lift arms which fit bag loops and work acceptably well as a log loader. The Riko can be in your shed for 1200 less members discount so maybe 1000/1050 + VAT. The Albutt looks a far stronger bit of kit but the arms are too thick for my bag loops and it will cost double. This is fine for a dedicated loader working 5 days a week loading a rack or similar but the Riko in my current set up would be more versatile. Horses for courses really. Has anyone here had a bad time with the Riko log grab?, equally who else has used one and how have you got on with it?. A

So what we need are hard and fast (ish) figures of say Ash and Larch or Spruce. Has anyone produced those?. The other issue is that those gases contain crerosote, if its not ignited due to low fire temps then it will condense in the chimney setting things up for a chimney fire. A

I implied that I was unsure, thanks for that link, I have been looking for it for some time. Got a feeling there was something on the Hetas site as well but i cant find it. I dont dispute your figures but with less water to evaporate there must I would have thought be more energy available to turn into heat. Anyone care to comment of shall I start this as a new thread. A