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Alycidon

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Everything posted by Alycidon

  1. Use Poujoulat TI pipe, its combustible clearance is half that of most of the other brands. They also have adjustable wall mounting arms (200mm - 400mm is the most popular one) so the pipe can be off the wall by some way. We also use them on teh outside to save having to have two expensive bends going round gutters. We come off the wall and go straight up, cheaper and with no bends the flue works better. Dont forget the powdercoating option, make sure your supplier can do it, if not most local powder coaters should be able to do it. A
  2. This new govt statement allowing you to protect your property should help you. Good luck, I hope it all works out for you. A
  3. The volume you are after makes it hardly worth while. At this time of year anyone with 'hardwood logs that just need splitting' will have them split up ready for sale as firewood. I would suggest you have a look at other threads and pick up on members from your part of the world and ask them what if anything they have to sell you. Most will say firewood ready to burn only. You would be better asking this in March/ April for next winter. A
  4. Big job that and it limits where you can place the stove, twin wall allows you to place the stove where you want. a
  5. Normally you will have a ventilated plate on the top side and a magnetic ceiling plate on the bottom side. Mag plates are sold to the trade by Specflue. They are a Poujoulat product but I cant find them on their web site. If you have used Poujoulat product then they will be fine but if you have used something else you may be limited as pipe diameters are different between brands. Poujoulat is expensive but it is the best. A
  6. Nick Channing here could sort you. A
  7. Well you could use 45 deg but not 90 deg, you can only have 150mm of horizintal pipe in the whole system and a maximum of 33% of the whole flu length less than vertical. Remember you will need access to the chimney you would run into to allow sweeping and soot removal, the pipe from the stove is swept from inside the stove usually. To penetrate the ceiling you will need to use twin wall insulated pipe such as Poujoulat TI. The best idea is to go straight through the lounge ceiling then straight on up through the roof with twin wall pipe all the way. This is something we do almost every day. The pipe can be powder coated to match the stove and a white magnetic ceiling plate makes the lounge ceiling look nice and neat. In the loft a spring guard is fixed to the pipe to prevent combustibles falling against the pipe. A large lead slate is used on the roof assuming its tiles or slate. Dont forget that the installation needs to conform to Approved Document J of the building regs and needs signing off as safe to use by a competent person. This can be a Hetas registered engineer or a building inspector if you install it yourself. Failure to get it signed off will invalidate your property insurance if you ever have a fire and you will then also be prosecuted for breech of building regs, fine is about 4.5k. App Doc J can be downloaded from the Planning Portal website for free. Flue exits, if within 600mm of the ridge then 600mm above the ridge minimum, elsewhere on the roof no less that 2.3m horizontally from the top surface of the roof tiles. A.
  8. Agreed, its the installers call, he has the legal liability to sign it off as safe to use. I am assuming that most houses are reasonably air tight. A
  9. Certainly in stoves, I could not survive on log margins alone. Someone else may comment on processor margins but I imagine with only one distributor per brand per country they will be fine. A
  10. Easily enough power, I run mine on a 40 year old MF135 (40hp when new). I would think you could find a used one with manual rack for about 5-6k + VAT, think its 100% tax deductible at present. Output one man is about a cube an hour on log mixed diameter cord cutting at 240mm long, handles up to 250mm in diameter. Short logs (up to about 5 feet) are faster. I have to cut long ones in half first otherwise they jam on the rack as the log moves to the blade. I use a teleporter to load the rack, pretty slow without a log grab. A
  11. Yes it would, and be 5% VAT possably. Just wont be as nice to look at. A
  12. Most are looking for that but have got fed up of being caught with a load of 35% MC logs that wont burn. There will always be a market for crap as there will always be a market for a quality product. A
  13. Customer response when I deliver, just ask the lady of the household when her logs are rolled into her garage on a pump truck and left neat and tidy without her or her old man having to lift a finger. I have never had a customer go back to buying loose after buying in a bag. It stands you out as being different so you are not judged on price alone. All about added value. I process straight into cube meter bags, store and deliver in those same bags. A
  14. I am aware of some birch imported last spring, kept inside all summer, MC is currently 4%, way to low. Customers are no silly, well most of them are not, they want value. CW's advertised MC is 20-22%, just nail what your MC is in comparison. You will be cheaper so at a similar MC you should be the supplier of choice assuming you are able to deliver in the same way, ie bags on pallets. People these days do NOT want a pile of logs tipped on their drive. A
  15. installing a stove comes under Building Control regualtions, this is a legal statute, failure to comply with it could lead to a fine of over 4k. When the stove is installed someone needs to sign the installation off as being safe to use. No sign off then no insurance if you ever have a fire and you will then also be prosecuted fro breech of building regs on top, 4k fine. A Building Inspector is qualified to sign off an installation as safe if indeed it is and has been installed to approved Doc J, as it a Hetas registered installer. A Hetas installer will not usually sign off other peoples work as he/she is legally liable for the consequences if the system is actually not safe or fails due to poor quality parts such as those commonly found on the web being used. The decision on a vent comes down to the installer, if he is happy that the existing ventilation is permanently open and complies with the regs then he may sign it off. BUT the stove you are looking at is big, I suspect 20-30kw, the free air requirement in laymans terms is about 1 x 22mm diameter plumbing pipe per kw above 5kw. We would probably core drill a 127mm hole in the wall and install a standard Stadium vent with anti draft baffles. A few holes under doors etc would not be enough draft. A A
  16. Wrong, all stoves over 5kw need an air vent in any building, in sealed houses ALL stoves of any size need a vent. The vent must to in an outside wall and must be located in the room where the stove is located. A carbon monoxide alarm is also now a legal requirement, again must beb located in the room where the stove is. The stove in the pic looks like a chinese copy of the Broseley 30B Hercules 30B Boiler Stove | Broseley Fires Ironic as the Broseley is also chinese but of decent quality. Company selling seem to be a bit iffy by the looks of their other items, I suspect they are selling an ex display model and they are based in Ireland so you will have maybe £100 carriage. I would suggest that if you already have a condensing boiler in your house that you speak to a good plumber before going any further. Providing you have a cold water tank in the loft then the plumbing is reasonably straight forward but if you dont then one would need to be installed to allow excess heat to escape in the event of a power cut. Condensing systems are pumped, no power = no water flow=boiler stove that will boil about 5 mins after the power cut, create steam, possibly explode. The Esse Centralizer or a similar device from Dunsley could be needed. A
  17. I dont, I point them to the Nottingham Energy partnership web site so they get independant accuracte advise on costs and CO2 emissions which are of concearn especially to the ladies. I also have my log price list on the wall, A
  18. Another option I am finding increasingly popular is electronic payment, you do need to be able to access your account on line to make sure they have paid though !!. Costs for that are the same as a cheque. A
  19. I get charged 3.3% by Nat West for credit cards, debit cards 35p, it is legal to pass this on. There is also a minimum monthly terminal rental charge of £35 if your 3.3% comissions dont come to that. A
  20. Keep an eye on the classifieds here, as regards people selling them Fuelwood have a decent reputation here. You tend to get what you pay for but I have found them fair to deal with. Dont think there is anyone down your end of the country selling them. I may be looking to sell my JAPA 700 + JAPA manual log rack but not till at least next year and maybe even the year after. I am though in Northants. A A
  21. Thats a good Vosa link, thanks for that, there is other interesting info on small trailers as well. Do you not find that your ropes come loose?. Your idea of tying the 4 loops together is something I will try next week. My bags are on pallets and pushed up with a teleporter, then I have a tall loading ramp at the rear and a ladder rack at the front, tops of the bags are about level with the tops of the ladder rack and ramp. Bags are very tight front to back, and have sides on the trailer about 15 inches high. I have yet to find a binding that stays tight, maybe tying the loops may help. Given the chance logs will move, I had 10 bags on a farm trailer recently, 2 rows of 5, on pallets, overhanging the sides by about 15cm each side, went over some slightly uneven ground , next thing I know one bag has decided to plunge off the side of the trailer, 500 logs on the ground. In a field its inconvenient, on a road it might be deadly. So we would need trailers with solid metal sides, most have them, surely a curtain above would be good enough to stop flying logs in the event of an accident. Some blokes round here just plonk 4 builders bags onto the back of a flatbed LWB Trannie van with a small crane on it and off they go, no ropes, no sheets, no sides, no nothing. The only other way is a box van but they are hard to load more than one bag into. A
  22. Problem is what happens if the machine fails and someone is injured as a result?, will your insurer cover that and if so at what cost. CE approvals are in force for some products and are I think coming to processors soon, I think that all that top brands are CE tested anyway. A
  23. I have seen somewhere some heat output figures on MJ of heat output per kg of log depending on moisture content, it does nto differenciate between hard and soft. Thought it was on the Hetas site but cant see it at present. A
  24. Excellent advice, 20% cheaper for soft is where I am. I get customer comments liek 'I have never had wood that burns liek yours does, its fantastic'. Thats pine, larch by and large, bit of conny bvut no pop. Am burnign poop at present in the showroom, goes ok but have allowed the moisture to creep up to about 20% to slow the combustion rate a bit. A
  25. I used to ratchet them but 200 yards down the road the straps are loose as the load is live and moves. Most of the time now I use nothing, ( Sky hooks !!), occasionally if going through a town I will use a net and if raining a sheet. I use a GD85 IFW at present. This will change as its no longer big enough. I would have thought that the load can be deemed secure if you can stop articles from the load being thrown out. Drop sides on the bottom with curtains on the top would I would have though resolved any potential issue. Has anyone here been stopped and warned(or worse !)by Police/Vosa on this issue?. A

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