Alycidon

Hi, 1000 should get you a nice stove, but you need to allow for the flue parts needed to install it and the actual installation and safety sign off ( a legal requirement) costs. These will vary from area to area. Assuming thats done then look at stoves that are actually made in the UK or Western Europe. A lot of Uk names are selling stoves made in China or eastern Europe and others are assembling stoves in the UK from parts made in these countries and are legally allowed to call them made in England. So for 1000 for a 5kw nominal heat output freestanding stove ( suits a 5m square room given average insulation values) I would recommend, Arada Ecoburn 5, made from scratch in Axminster Devon since the 1960s. Lifetime casing warranty Charnwood, Country 4, C4, C5 or Aire, latter two are a shade over budget though, made from scratch on the Isle of White since 1972, 10 year casing warranty providing bought from your local approved dealer who registers the warranty. 1 year warranty otherwise. Morso, 04, Swift 1000, S11-42, also look at Badger 3112 or 3116 ( 1100 ish) Made in Denmark since 1853, 10 year casing warranty on most models , 5 years on others. Esse. Number 1, 500, 525, made from scratch in Lancashire since 1854, 10 year casing warranty, Go for a well known brand, sooner or later you will need parts for it, many times I have been asked for parts fro cheap imported stoves and in almost all cases these are simply not available. A

If this is a New Island 2 then it is approved for Smoke Control area and is around 30% better than the 2022 Ecodesign efficiency and emissions requirements. I have sold a few and everyone is pleased with them, we also have one on live display in one of our showrooms. Modern stoves are designed to burn CLEANLY and EFFICIENTLY, they are tested and have to attain certain UK and European requirements, start messing around with the air vents and you will invalidate any warranty. How big is your room, Island 2 is an 8 kw nominal stove with a max of around 11kw depending on fuel type and load. That wants a room of around 120 cu meters volume given average insulation and window area. I would expect to have to reload it every 40/45 minutes with hardwood or 35 minutes with softwood. These times can be extended slightly by burning larger pieces of wood. It wont slumber overnight, doing that creates tars and moisture in the flue which can lead to chimney fires, rust inside the stove and vastly increased emissions levels. Cut you wood the length of the firebox less around 50 - 75mm, load wood cross ways in the firebox. Aim to load 2 bigger peices rather than 3 or 4 smaller ones. Not such a glamorous fire but it will stay in a bit longer. If you want 3 or 4 hour refuel periods if its the older multifuel version the use Anthracite, if its the new BLU version thats a dedicated wood burner with no facility to put air under the fire that solid fuels need. A

Hi and welcome to the site. I am a Morso UK Center of Excellence so probably better qualified to answer than most. Squirrel is a good little stove, suited to a 4m square room given average insulation in theh property and small/average glass area, if was designed and launched over 50 years ago, at the time it was cutting edge but things have moved on since then. There are several models of Squirrel, 1410 is the most popular, fitted on boats a lot, not approved to burn wood within a smoke control area, 2 doors, 2 rotary air controls, one on each door. 1412, this is an internally updated model and is approved to burn wood within a smoke control area, 1 door, 2 rotary air controls, at top and bottom of door. 1430, the most popular in domestic houses, better air control than 1410 and 1412, larger glass than 1410, 2 doors, one rotary air control on bottom door, slide below ash lip for secondary air control. Not approved too burn wood within a smoke control area. There are others but these are the usual ones, So if you are out in the sticks any one should do, smoke control areas are usually in medium/large towns and cities. Squirrel is a cast iron stove and does not take kindly to water running down the inside of the flue pipe, usually as a result of slumbering the stove or rainwater getting down the flue. Water sets up rust which can literally destroy the stove. First signs are the rear flue exit plate falling off, the fixing screws having rusted through. While all parts are still available they are not really cost effective to fully rebuild if the top has been forced away from the rear or sides. Frankly I would avoid a used Squirrel, I have advised several clients to change them when they are looking close to failure. Save a few more pennies and buy a new Morso Swift. This internally is a 1410 squirrel but with a single door. It is not approved for burning wood within a Smoke control area. So to all intents and purposes it is a Squirrel but not advertised as such and is not on the Morsoe UK web site at all as its quite a bit cheaper than 1410. https://morsoe.com/media/com_hikashop/upload/safe/72107000_-_1000_the_swift_eng.pdf 1410 and Swift are likely to be discontinued by the end of 2021 as they do not meet the 2022 efficiency and emissions requirements, 1430 has already been discontinued. You will though still be able to use your stove for a s long as it lasts, you just wont be able to buy a new one from Jan 22 that does not meet EcoDesign specs. I would advise you to use your local Morso dealer for the purchase and not buy it on line, you have a problem and they are close by. PM me if needed, A

One of the probs with that is that Red Deisel is on about 10 days delivery due to a shortage of delivery drivers. That combined with farmers trying to get fields drilled after teh wet autumn has delayed my start to processing for a week or so. A

Most stove manufacturers use a flat self adhesive rope to fit between the door and the glass for exactly this reason. Most stove shops should stock it, usually 10mm x 2mm, trim to suit if needed. Not aware of what Stovax use as I am not a dealer for them, A

4mm is the industry standard, make sure you change the rope under the glass, do NOT overtighten the fixing screws, the glass needs to be able to expand a shade when hot.

My little JAPA 2/4 way splitting wedge frpm my processor has managed to bend itself halfway up the main part of the shaft, have tried to straighten it using a drivall and a telehandler without joy, Fuelwood say do not heat it as it makes the steel brittle, so I need someone with a 100 ton or so press, anyone any contacts ?. Thanks in advance, A

Women have the final say in what goes into her house, and all she is usually bothered about is how it looks, she wont by and large like that thing. A

Tyres are to small in diameter and the axles to close together for an FW, looks like a big telehandler maybe. A

Fair enough. A

Was not aware this was a sales section !!. If so I could also slap up clearance stoves, object here is to give sound advice not peddle our wares. A

Not sure but its up to the industry itself to drive itself forward, all forward thinking retailers now need to join the SIA. Last week they corrected an awful lot of the misinformation in the press. A

I run my Japa 700 on an old MF135, handles it easily enough, that had when new about 38hp at the PTO, 7700 hours later its probably a bit less now. A

No but the original poster used 700 degrees as a temp, no way could that be 700C. I was just clarifying matters, A

I have sent you a PM on the issue and probable cause; Direct air ( air coming straight into the rear of the stove) is a good thing, it ensures inlet air pressure always matches that at the top of the chimney thus preventing smoke back when the door is opened to re fuel. If burning wood to light open all the air vents, once going nicely close the vent under the fire and manage the fire with the secondary air lever only, thats the one controlling the air coming down the inside of the glass. Wood does not need air from below. 700 degrees F for some time will seriously damage the stove, run at no more than 500F. Get the installers back before using it again. Leave the stove cold for them, A

Dont do that, not enough life and spent a year or two modding a board that was full on trolls. A

You just burn some 20% external hardwood, and see how it goes compared to something at 16% or lower, it will burn yes but not very well; 20% softwood will on the other hand burn fairly well. Recent research by one of the UK s largest stove manufacturers agrees that 10% - 12% is best for lowest emissions. A

Nope, max moisture level of 20% is far to high. I told Helen that at the Arb show when they launched the scheme back in 2014/2015 time. A

Ok, my eyesight is not what is was, old age. A

Semi season for a couple of years, split and process into vented bags March, store under cover in a pole barn with three open sides, fairly sheltered, will be ready to go by October at about 12% if you have done your semi seasoning correctly. A

Thanks for that, we learn something every day. I would suggest that you notify your insurer and get their approval in writing that the stove is not signed off and that they are happy with that, and keep that letter somewhere safe. A

Nice job, just fit some cover plates to cover the hole in the ceiling around the pipe. The pipe needs boxing in within the room above. Morso 6843 is a great stove for sure. A

What is the wall to the rear of the flue pipe constructed from ?, plasterboard maybe ?, how far is it from the wall to the nearest part of the pipe. Pipe looks like single skin pipe, not fully insulated. if so please dont light it. If it is fully insulated pipe then what is the minimum combustible clearance on the pipe you have used. What is the minimum combustible clearance on the rear of the stove ?. It looks a nice job providing you do not have a combustible rear wall within the minimum combustible clearance of the pipe or the rear of the stove. If you have then talk to me about how to correct matters, A building inspector should pick up of these points when they sign it off but many dont know the finer points of the requirements. A

Not sure about the regs in Scotland but cant see why they would be any different from the rest of the UK. In the UK anyone can install a stove, but it then needs signing off as safe to use by a qualified person, usually a building inspector for which there is a charge. Hetas and Oftec both have solid fuel qualified persons schemes. If an unqualified person puts it in and its not signed off if you ever have a fire your insurer will pass your claim to a loss adjuster. He gets paid a percentage of how much he is able to reduce your claim. So your Hetas/Oftec engineer or building inspector will register the installation of a stove in your property in whatever room its in with your local Building Control office in your town hall.. You have a fire, your insurer sends your claim to the loss adjuster, first thing he does is to ring building control and ask if there is a record of a stove being installed in whatever room of your house, if not then your insurance is usually invalidated and your claim refused. Loss adjuster then collects on your claim while you have a badly damaged house and no cover. By all means get your mate to put it in but make sure he is conversant with the regs, Approved Doc J 2014, the front half of the document. Then get it certified as safe to use. Or use a qualified installer who will install and self certify. A

Gents, Those of you who bring in container loads of kiln dried logs from the Baltic and elsewhere. You will be aware that for the last couple of years we have had to be registered with the Govt as an importer of timber products and most containers are checked for disease by the FC. In Dec 19 a new set of regs came into place with one days notice, again requiring registration, from what I can see this only applies to living timber or unkilned timber with bark attached. I rang the FC for guidance as to if I needed to register and they had no idea, so I did not register. I have today had a chase up. Has anybody here registered under this new scheme ?, if so I might need some of the questions putting into plain English if I also need to register. Thanks in advance, A