Alycidon

They do work but someone needs get up there to sweep the horizontal pipe every year, I know because I have one above a pellet boiler. External air kit will improve the pull, but the cause of the downdrafts which I suspect is a higher building or trees within 80 yards or its on the side of or at the bottom of a steep hill needs identifying. We usually use Brewer anti down draft cowls. Eurocowl ones are just as effective. A

If you can find a bank or post office near you these days. Electronic payment is so much easier. A

The look varies somewhat between manufacturers. I think you will have to take your installers word for whats been installed, if he has supplied it then he is liable for the warranty aspects. If you have the packaging the liner was supplied in that may tell you. 904/904 is made up of two layers of stainless 904 grade material, 316/904 has an inner of 904 and the outer is 316. 316 is a lower grade of stainless steel but almost impossible to tell apart. If you are burning solid fuel most of which will be illegal to sell from Jan 22 then the fumes are highly corrosive, thats why you want 904 on the inside. Its not really that important what the outer layer is as its not likely to be in contact with the fumes. If you are burning wood then 316 on the inside would have been perfectly fine unless attempting to slumber the stove which with a 2022 compliant stove is difficult unless you put wet wood into it. A

This is also dangerous, pipe where is fits into the flue flange on the stove should also be secured with 3 x stainless pop rivets or self tappers to stop an enthusiastic sweep parting the pipes.. The joint above is not all the way home, probably because someone cut the flue liner to short. A

The stove is a Morso 3116 Badger, as a Morso UK dealer I can tell you its one of the best stoves in the world, the colour which is a dedicated Morso colour looks original so that suggests to me that the stove has not been repainted. It also suggests that the stove has done very little work unless it has been repainted. Morso sell paint in pots for brush application or aerosols, these take3 or 4 very thin coats only to cover, If its been hand painted that will tend to show brush marks, that being the case the paint could be the issue as it will have been applied to thickly. Usually 4 or 5 fires of increasing temperatures will cure the paint on the stove ex works or an aerosol respray and any smells will disappear. However the quality of the installation work is poor, the gap at the sides of the stove while legal are insufficient to allow a good air flow around the stove to get the heat coming out in the room. You need at least 100mm each side, I would be surprised if you have that. The hearth looks fine, but wall paper right up to the edge of the opening is a bit risky, stoves get hot, wall paper is combustible. Morso recommend at least 800mm of clearance from the front to combustibles and soft furnishings. There is also an issue with the beam above the opening if its wood, minimum combustible clearance from any part of the flue pipe in a straight line to the beam is x3 the flue pipe diameter, so 375mm. If the beam is cast ( thus non combustible as its made from a type of plaster) then there should be no problem with it. It is wood then there may well be, The minimum combustible clearance above the top of the stove is 500mm, looks like you have that OK. I would like to see some pictures of exactly whats been done in the loft area if its not been flued into a brick chimney, that being the case also some external pics of the flue pipe and the roof . The advice above re a camera inspection carried out by a registered sweep is very sound, there will be nothing wrong with the stove believe me, I have sold them for 12 years without a single issue. My money is on a tar build up caused by slumbering an older stove, ( new stoves are set up in such a way that you cant shut them all the way down), they can still produce tar though if wet wood is put into them, One issue I have come across in the past is a new flue liner put into a tar lined brick chimney, the tar must be removed before a new liner is installed, otherwise the hot flue liner will melt/set fire to it. That will continue to emit smells for ever and be dangerous to boot. Do you have a Hetas (or similar) sign off certificate for the install, this will identify the installer. If there is a stainless steel flue liner within a brick or masonry chimney then you should have a metal plate usually kept near the electrical fuse box, this will identify the make and diameter of the flue liner, who installed it and when. If you have nothing check with your local building control office if they have a record of the installation, the installation of a stove is a notifiable requirement under the building regulations. If they do then that will give you installer details or you can check with Hetas to see if they have a record based on your address, Hetas will charge you £25 for a new certificate. But there are now other approved bodies apart from Hetas so building control would be my first stop. If building control have no record you need to speak to me or other trade professional as to how to proceed. A chimney fire over a stove non certified as safe to use will almost certainly result in any insurance claim being refused. Dont get here that often , to busy, so apologies for the late reply. A

If its a boiler stove, so one or two water pipes in and the same out do not run it without water in the pipes/stove. If you do the water acts as a barrier for the excess heat, no barrier and the outer casing may fail. A

It's either a Villager or a pre bankruptcy yeoman, I think the latter. Send your pics to Mike at Arada, they are the villager parent company. They do have a direct sales facility for spares but you will get hit with carriage. Doing it though your local Arada dealer then providing they buy a fair wedge of stoves then there would be no carriage. I cover Northants, Bucks and parts of Leics, Beds, Oxon, and Warwickshire. The hinges look like Yeoman, think they protrude to far for Villager. That being the case the name was bought by Stovax but parts for pre bankruptcy models are now non existent, but if they can identify it you should be able to get bricks from specialist brick suppliers . Given sizes or templates then I could organise if needed. The bricks are vermiculite usually and 20 or 25mm thick, they can be cut with a decent wood saw so previous advice about getting a sheet of vermiculite and cutting your own is sound. On the install side the minimum distance to combustibles from a single skin pipe is x3 its diameter, so 450mm if it's a 150mm pipe. MCC on twin walls depends on the quality, the best Poujoulst TI are 50mm, the worst at least twice that. A

Fuelwood do a minimum weeks hire of a kindling machine at about 450 + VAT from memory. In a week you could convert many years of kindling I would think. A

I am a Morso center of excellence, assuming its a 2110 or 2130 Panther then I do have the bricks in stock, these are genuine Morso bricks and are made from a heavy clay rather than lightweight vermiculite board you find in the non genuine aftermarket. There are two different baffle plates depending on the model of Panther, I dont stock either, lead time from Morso Denmark is about mid April for the later one. Costs for the baffle plate is either £46 ( early models) or £50 ( later models )depending on the model, inc VAT. Morso no longer carry any stock at all in the UK. There should be a plate or sticker on the lower part of the rear heatshield, a pic of the plate would be handy, failing that a pic of the front of the stove with the doors closed, I am especially interested in the air control lever under the ash lip and if that ash lip is bolted on or part of the bottom casting. If it does not have a water boiler in it the models usually sold in the UK were/are: 1809 2110 2130 2140 e mail the pics if necessary to [email protected] Thanks A

Stove was built 88 - 95, so its at least 25 years old, but for a Morso thats not excessive if looked after. I think you [or someone else) contacted me as a Morso dealer about this last year and we were disappointed not to be able to help. If you have been able to get one fabricated i would be interested in the guys details so that I can put others in touch in the future. Thanks A

Fuelwood do a one week hire of a Kindlet, this was one of the first kindling making machines, good tool. Minimum hire is 7 days, that would turn out several years worth I would think. You will need an ample supply of suitable cord to put through it, either rings cut to length or I know some people using joinery waste. Kindlet Kindling Machine | Try b4u Buy WWW.FUELWOOD.CO.UK The Kindlet kindling machine converts timber off-cuts and round logs into kindling. Hire equipment to try before you buy. Read full terms here. No idea on bricketts, I have too say that people were very reluctant when we tried to sell them but if the material is costing nothing then its worth looking at but also consider how you would pack them for retail sale. A

Pellets are the thick end of £300 a ton now, when I put a pellet boiler in at home they were £120. A

Parts back up when needed may be iffy as they are not a common brand in the UK, several companies have tried to sell them and failed. A

Send the picture to ARADA stoves, that is the current brand name for aarrow and stratford stoves with a list of parts you need, send for the attention of Mike. I think its an old Aarrow its defo from the old Arada stable. Mike will sell you any parts needed direct if they are still available. You will be charged carriage. A

Its an ideal package solution, state of the art Charnwood wood burner in it, so high quality and long life. A

Work out the volume of the room in cubic meters, roughly. say 5m x 4m x 2.5m = 50 cubic meters, Then divide by 12 for poor insulation ( so 4kw), 14 for average insulation ( so 3.5kw) or 16 for good insulation ( so 3kw), that is the amount of heat you would need in total to get the temp in the room to 22 Deg C if its 1 deg c outside. If the window of glass area is larger than average then add in extra heat as heat loss through glass is a lot worse than through a solid wall. The rated output of a stove is what is known as a nominal output, the actual output will depend on the fuel you load and what volume of fuel you load. A 5kw nominal wood burner has a typical output rage varying from about 2kw up to 7kw. For optimum performance choose a smaller stove that is working flat out all the while, it burns cleaner, keeps the glass clear and gives you a nice flame picture. Glass hearth needs to be large enough to conform to the regs, in a corner then a tear shape would usually work but talk to your installer about what sie you will need, this will depend on the size of the stove you select and what is happening about the side walls of the cabin re fire proofing. (Are you siting the stove outside the Min Comb clearance of the stove or are you making the walls fire resistant perhaps with fireboard ( Not the pink backed stuff). Here are the links. Stove Pod - Charnwood Stoves WWW.CHARNWOOD.COM Morsø S11-42 MORSOE.COM The elegant, simple design of our S11-42 multi-fuel stove really shines. A

Hi, I own two retail stove showrooms and have been advising people about stoves for about 12 years. I can though only comment on the regs as they stand in England, approved Doc J 2014, the front part only as openspaceman has advised. Summer houses, sheds, log cabins etc do not come under building regulation above with regards to the install of a stove. None the less it needs doing properly and above all safely. Thus I would recommend you abide by the building regs. The major issue you have is a wooden floor and probably plasterboard walls and ceiling. These are all viewed as combustible. So let's deal with the easy bits first. Where you want to put the stove is fine given that its either far enough away from the combustible walls or steps are taken to fire rate the walls in the area of the stove. Stove manufacturers will usually advise their minimum required clearance to combustibles in the technical notes on their web sites. You will need a non combustible hearth to stand the stove on, the thickness of this hearth on most good quality modern design stoves is a minimum of 12mm. Anything that is non combustible can be used, looking at your floor then a glass hearth would work well. Most stoves work through a process of radiation, the flames heat the metal of the stove body, this then radiates that heat into the room. However the sides get very hot, thus needing quite a large minimum clearance to combustibles. You could use a convector stove, this radiates heat to the front and top but the sides and sometimes the rear have air gaps between the side of the firebox and the side of the stove itself. Cool air from the room is drawn in the base of the convection chambers under the stove, rises up via convection and emerges from slots on the top of the stove as heated convected heat. Two benefits, a. Slightly better efficiency and b, reduced minimum side clearance to combustibles. My first choice stove for this type of application is the morso S11 series, morso also do a fully insulated flue system for use in cabins etc but it's only approved for use with their stoves. The flue route with the morso system would be straight up through the roof. Charnwood have recently released their stove pod system for use in conjunction with their Aire3 stove, only 50mm clearance to combustibles from the outside of the pod, the base of the pod is also a legal hearth. A very neat installation specifically designed for this type of install . PM me your e mail address and I can send you links if you wish. Hope that helps. A

Good idea, if I can buy it at the right price. Its not viable to pay £80 a ton plus VAT for cord to make 2 x cube, cut it up, season it, deliver it , pay for vented bags, and then charge a price that competes with the web. I have seen seasoned at £60 a cube for hard wood, might all be pop agreed. I can make money selling imported crates and I can get £600 worth onto my trailer, for loose seasoned wood a load is worth £250 as it takes far more space. I do sell seasoned yes, mainly fallen timber from my brothers farm but the market is changing towards kiln dried rapidly, dont really know why but it is. A

I only bring in couple of containers a year, but cant get any new supplies until late Feb at best so will just sell seasoned for the rest of the winter, thus my next container will arrive in June by which time the dust should have settled. Containerships who handle the shipping have brokers so will use them certainly to start with to handle the import declarations, cant see that there will much if any cost. You will also have seen the UK requirement from Jan1 that all packing crates must be marked as heat treated, one company I use were heat treating but not marking but they are now changing that. A

200mm should fit just about everything. 250mm would fit a Squirrell but new smaller stoves such as Charnwoods Aire 3 for small highly insulated places need shorter logs. The ARADA Puffin needs 200mm from memory, I am not aware of any stove that needs shorter than 200mm. A

Magnets on the prop shaft. A

Auto every time, my last 2 Discos have been auto diesels, plonk it in drive and off you go. I pull trailers loaded to about 2.7 tonnes 3 or 4 days a week, no downsides at all. But its a one way street, its a pain having to go back to a manual. A

Most manufacturers today build the majority of their stoves with a one piece steel body and a cast iron door. Less joints for air to get in than a cast stove and far lower production costs as the body can be folded from sheet steel by robots. Cast will hold the heat somewhat longer than steel but you would be hard pressed to see a difference. Clearview were good stoves in their day, but technology moves on and efficiency levels increase, Clearview have stayed rooted in the past. In 2014 the minimum efficiency levels changed from 55% to 65%, in 2022 its going to 75% and 2025 to 80%. You will note that the Clearview web site does not show many efficiency levels, yet all other manufactures do, it is I believe a legal requirement to advise prospective buyers of energy and efficiency levels. Stoves from Chanwood, Arada and Esse are all made from scratch in the UK, Morso in Denmark. Not assembled in the UK from Chinese or eastern European parts, these are allowed to be called 'Made in the UK' . If you want a traditional cast iron stove then look at the Charnwood Skye and the Morso Badger 3116, highly efficient, minimal emissions, 2025 compliant, made in the UK or Denmark for the Morso. Costly yes but heirloom quality products. A

You should be Ok, just dont go pileing lots of logs in at a time, one or two is fine as long as they are not to big.. A

Cant speak for Stovax, fortunately I am not a dealer. But Arada, Charnwood, Morso and Esse who I do act for generally have a price increase of about £20 a stove a year, however this year their price rises were due in May, due to lockdown etc they all held off until November ( Morso 1 Jan). So yes there are rises but not to the 30% level. A