carlos
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Everything posted by carlos
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could you expand on this. " updating" is this in the form of a course or just an in house session, im guessing it would have to be all documented. i wonder how many of the climbers on here have done documented ariel rescue training in the last 12 months??? carl
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i reckon keeping your rope tidy and free running is a very important aspect in self rescue, i keep a rope bag at the bottom of the tree to help with this. always thought that if it was a rigging job then using the rigging system to bring the casualty down would be very quick, prob not best practice though.
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it can be a bit stubborn to get out somtimes, its reversable too so may not need a new one. (530)
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id say it could be good but the bridge thing looks pricey! always good to see people try to push things forward though.
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what is your nearest dealer , ie what do they stock , whats there turn around on repairs, back up etc? id say stihl, husky and echo will all do the job fine.
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are these saws particularly heavy on bars then? could get expensive once youve used up your 40! lol
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you might of been better off with pull rope on a section of that size as most winches are a slow pull , where as a person can give it a fast pull. that and a bigger hinge or trying to find some better holding wood.
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id say he was just giving you some handy first aid tips! but you seem to have it all figured out any way ;(
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anyone else find the noise from the 560 absolutely earsplitting ?? i find myself going for the ancient 361 instead which isnt too far behind performance wise imo.
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i found the original chain that came with mine cut pretty badly , i swapped for a stihl full chisel chain this made a big difference to the way it cut, so could be worth a try,
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we got a pretty high quote for a new crank and labour .
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did your 261 die because of needle bearing failure? the echo CS-501SX has a better spec than the echo you mentioned, they are nice saws, the antivibes arnt so good and dont last. and the chain brake mecanism is a bit weak, but the engines seem super relablie. had a go with a husky 550 and to be honest it felt a bit nicer than the above echo but it is an auto tune saw and some people seem to have trouble with them, although we have a 560xp auto tune and that has been fine carl
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thanks for sharing those vids and pictures, enjoyed them. very different from my typical days tree work......one of those tops would probably keep me going for a day or so! thanks carl
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i hear you, both drt and srt have there places but ive just got a brand new bulldog bone so its srt or nothing at the moment!
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ill always aim to bag a high anchor point but somtimes the tree has other ideas, and after you have used both ends of your own throwline and are now borrowing another one you tend to take any anchor!!!
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id start off with a base anchor, then get that untied once i was up, not so keen on working with a base anchor. thanks
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that multi sling looks like a useful thing. i think the simplest way is to base anchor srt up then undo base tie and use the bulldog in drt mode and alternate up with the lanyard, iam not trying to advance that far just the last bit to get the best final tip. i used to use the lockjack with a rope wrench and that took seconds to switch between srt and drt. will have a look at the treebuzz thread. thanks carl
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looking at ways to advance the tie in point when using srt, such as when you can only get a low throwline shot, or decide to climb from the bottom up. iam using a bulldog bone, could i just choker the spliced end round the next limb up with a karribiner? obviously i could use the bulldog in double mode but it seems a bit pants at that, or i could use my lock jack then swap but means two devices in the tree. any ideas? thanks carl
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started using a set of these at work the other day, the whole concept of coms is amazing, the level of clear dialog whilst rigging etc is incredible, roadside traffic managment much easier. plus just talking crap to pass the day. easy to fit and pretty cheap. id definetly recommend trying out a comm system, got to be the tool that makes nearly every job easier and safer. carlhttps://www.amazon.co.uk/Fodsports-Motorcycle-Waterproof-Interphone-Communication/dp/B07C4WY1K6/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531605622&sr=8-17-spons&keywords=fodsport&psc=1
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it is very hard to calculate the weight/load of the piece being lowered though.
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to the op. can you not move the main block high enough in the tree to enable the pieces to be top tied thus enabeling the swing cheek pulley to just stop or slow the swing? it would obviously require a second rope.
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actually on rereading your post id say ignore my suggestion!
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id swap them to the way you have them in the diagram, as you will struggle to get a snug fit under the cut with a tape sling, then youll end up with a bit of a drop and that can start to rag up the edges of the swing cheeck pulley. it will work your way if you keep the pieces sensible, but i think it will be smoother with the pulleys swapped. check out the cow hitch for the dead eye sling, much easier than a timber hitch. carl
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i wouldnt call replacing a needle bearing twice a week regular maintenance! id call that a faulty saw. we have a dead 261 due to this fault, not sure of the year but id be wary of buying one personally carl.
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an update on this saw, it seems to be working fine now, so thanks to all who helped with this thread
