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Husqvarna King

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Everything posted by Husqvarna King

  1. In the Gerry Berenek DVDs he made one from a builders chalk line with a winder, looked great. He had it clipped to harness to advance his climb line ?
  2. I prefer straight blades. If you are notching and back cutting it just makes sense (although generally this would be chainsaw work) I love using a silky on reductions, hate a chainsaw getting caught and the silky cuts heal quicker/better than a rough chainsaw cut (on the tree I mean ?)
  3. Mine popped out the other week. I put it back crossed over itself if that makes sense, looks right and works well, hadn't taken any notice before that?
  4. Seems to be a good machine, much better than the hayter 56 pro and picks up better in the wet. Only cons are it's heavier to lift on and off a truck throughout the day and is a bit cumbersome in small gardens, although the slowest speed does help ?
  5. I replaced the bearing on an 81r last week, there are two circlips, a smaller one and a larger one. Took a bit ok knocking with a socket to get bearing out ?
  6. That's what I wear, very comfortable, great grip in the tree, the rubber protector around the base of the boot is a great idea to keep feet dry in wet grass etc but this seems to come unstuck when climbing in under 6 months I find. Still wearable but still a shame. You'll probably need to order a size larger than you normally are in other boots. I would probably buy another pair when these give up ?
  7. One at/sa and one plain one.... Bottom one is the at/sa, looks a good tyre... That's what I ordered?
  8. That's good enough for me, cheers I won't bother mentioning it when I go back ?
  9. Thanks for the reply. So if I hit a kerb or the side of a stump etc you don't think it could cut the valve off and deflate the tyre?
  10. Hi, I had a pair of AT tyres fitted on the front of my Isuzu on Saturday, this morning I noticed that the two tyres had a different tread pattern so one is being changed this week! But I'm a little concerned about the valve length, they stick out further than the side of the steel wheels and almost to the wall of the tyre. Should I ask them to change them when I go back to have front changed or am I worrying over nothing?
  11. The Beranek DVDs are good my wife bought me the climbing and cutting/rigging in a tree. Very interesting and informative.... A lot more than any nptc short course will teach you ?
  12. If you already have a rope look at the diameter, if it's above 12.5mm it won't work too well in the zigzag. To be honest I have always got on well with just a mirco pulley on taller stuff or multi stemmed take downs and just a prussic or Blake's on normal day to day stuff ?
  13. I need to cut hedges, not tickle them ?
  14. I really wouldn't want a harness on any hedge cutter, would be too restricting and unnecessary
  15. That's what I heard, weight doesn't bother me too much. Thanks
  16. Apologies if this has been covered before. I have just rebuilt an older Stihl hs81r, which I quite like to work on, the gearbox con rods are great now there are no more needle bearings making sharpening much quicker and less hassle. The things that annoy me about this model is that the blade quality seems pretty poor(soft), I remove blades and lightly sharpen at least twice per year adjusting spacers too. My other annoyance are the two bolts that stick out underneath and flick up bits of already cut hedge especially on tight conifer etc. I preferred the older hs80 as it didn't have these bolts although took longer to take blades off. My question is.... Is the 82r much different and what are you guys currently using? Not tried the huskies or the Honda so interested in other views Thanks in advance ?
  17. Dean lofthouse demonstrating the gauze crap I mentioned ?
  18. I would be tempted to dismantle the carb, use some carb cleaner, clean the mesh gauze to see if that helps, remember the same issues when I had a 200, it was normally crap in that gauze. Failing that a carb kit, save some money from a whole replacement carb?
  19. Thought this looked cool, never seen one before
  20. Rocking it on the hinge would not be best practice, maybe he could say he had his flip line attached, then surely Cs39 would cover him, not best practice though ??
  21. Light blow with airline to get larger particles off then warm soapy water, rinse then leave to dry before refitting. Can also bath them in petrol, will allow to be refitted almost instantly but fairy liquid and water mix is best. I know some manufacturers now say not to oil them, even though years ago the same manufacturers (Kohler etc) told you to.
  22. Oooo let me hold the ladder for you ?
  23. I have seen some good prices on new 372xp at dealers since the 572 has come out, would run a 20 inch bar nicely, be well made and still be a bit "old school" engine wise ?
  24. I can sharpen freehand but am better with the guide, if I have caught metal and need to take the cutters back a lot I will do a little, then take the rakers down a bit (leaving the raker guage in place, it doesn't wear down that quick) and then continue sharpening. This lets the round file sit better and you get a better gullet/working corner..... In my experience anyway. As for cutting straight, as well as even teeth, the bar dressing tools are awesome, having level guidebar rails will make cutting much more accurate, especially on 30inch and longer

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