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Rob D

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Everything posted by Rob D

  1. Apologies if it came across as smug - that was not intended. What I should have said is most people love them simple as that. It is what I meant.
  2. Wood shavings people have the upperhand at the moment! PS I have a tenner on this with the general manager Laurence - he reckons the idea of using shavings will not go down well at all... I reckon it'll be a great way of reducing how much plastic packaging we use.
  3. Yes it would but not a huge amount so we could only do this for UK orders. Oh and to answer Woodworks - the mills are pre assembled so with perhaps a couple of smaller boxes inside to stabalise they would not move around much.
  4. Yep - we'd need to get a big old cardboard shredder but it's an idea - however I don't think we'd produce enough cardboard.
  5. It would be dusty! Too hard to control that... the corn starch packing is an idea but you still have to produce the stuff and the bag it is in. The wood shavings are on hand and just get burnt.
  6. Just curious but how long do you use your bars for and what is it that makes you buy a new bar? If you've had the Sugi bar for a year there would not be a warranty I'm afraid... if the Stihl bar works for you and you feel the Sugi wasn't oiling and it failed earlier than you'd have liked maybe just stick to Stihl bars in future. Some people love Sugi bars, some have mixed feelings and some don't like them... But have to say most folks seem to love them if sales have anything to go by
  7. OK let's have a few more votes in that case - it's all anonymous and you only have a choice of x2! So far only x1 vote for shavings so one of you don't ain't clicked
  8. Where we are based we have access to dry wood shavings from a workshop next door. At the moment we currently use loads of bubblewrap (x4 very large bales a week). Because we send our Panther mills pre assembled they need lots of wrapping to stop them moving in the box. If we used the carboard boxes and wood shavings for UK orders this means no plastic is needed in the packaging. But we are worried folk will think we are trying to save money and uploading waste on them! We would put a note on the box not to open inside. Cost would be around the same as although bubblewrap is more expensive it is less time consuming. Honest answers please! If you got a premium product in a box full of wood shavings would it upset you?
  9. Here is a vid made the other day - the mill is very light weight at the far end and it worked well having some weight at the nose end (see later in vid). I think we will look to have a tray so you can have a heavier piece of wood on the far end easy to add and take off as it really helps to hold the mill flat to the log and reduces vibration... First cut system works a treat but we need wider rungs for wider mills which we are working on. The set below has wider rungs I was testing but for this mill (PM42 - 42" GB lo pro bar) you need only the standard width rungs for the first cut. Could also have done with bringing a longer length to make it easier for the mill to enter and exit the log.
  10. We've sold 100+ Panther mills out there so interested in feedback (positive and/or constructive!) - Also pics of what you've milled... This oak milled in Windemere was 4ft at the base: ' I thought you might like to see the Panther in action I am impressed the finish on the wood is good. Its a slow process but well worth it compliments to you for the sound honest advice you gave us. Paul did a great job it was hard work but well worth it.'
  11. I'm going to be biased on the Panther mill ;)seeing as was myself who helped guide the design... all I can say is the aim for the Panther mill is to be the best and most advanced chainsaw mill in the world. Not doubt this won't happen overnight - but that the the aim Height adjustment is tool less and fast – in fact it is the fastest compared with any other mill on the market. Simply rotate the round handle to adjust how deep the mill will cut. No need to hold a spanner in one hand while trying to adjust the mill with the other. 'Attachment is the quickest of any chainsaw mill – easily bolt and unbolt your mill to your chainsaw. Attachment to the saw is bolted not clamped – the saw can never slip in the mill. The mill is designed to be used with special GB Lo Pro milling bars which are thinner and narrower than existing chainsaw bars for a faster, cleaner cut. Panther Mills automatically come with a full winch set up to make milling 80% easier than pushing by hand. There is a dedicated Panther First Cut System to ensure your first cut is table top flat. This first cut system can be extended and widened indefinitely.'
  12. That is a crazy illusion and first thing I saw... haha!
  13. Alright Mark - sorry only just seen this - crack on with the recovery and hopefully you'll be milling and making again soon enough.
  14. Hmmm not sure but yes we have had the 27RX for a while - we are only folk in UK to have it... https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/27ax-oregon-full-skip-semi-chisel-404-063-copy/
  15. Panther mills are now out there in the open and folk seem to be enjoying using them! https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product-category/panther-chainsaw-mills/ Although they come pretty much pre assembled have done a set up video here just in case someone requires it. You can buy them here https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product-category/panther-chainsaw-mills/ So what makes them good? Well quite a few tit bits of info and vids here on our facebook page https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100014846747359 But basically we (and Loglogic who build them yes they are UK designed and built) want to end up with the best chainsaw mill that currently exists in the world today. The chainsaw fits quickly and easily to the mill - magnets pull the bar in and x2 13mm flanged nuts hold it there. No way the bar can slip and to fix to the mill takes around 40 seconds. Height adjustment works tool lessly with rack and pinion system and takes only 10-15 seconds to adjust. Most components are machined here in the UK by Loglogic specifically for this mill - and we are continuously tweaking and updating them. Winch comes as standard - this takes 80% effort out of milling timber with a chainsaw. We are now looking to tweak this with a new end log anchor and some thinner non stretch line which should further decrease friction and increase control. Better handle and grips. There is a heavy duty first cut system that you can use with the Panther mill or with other mills (but soon we will have additions that hold the Panther off the log which means you can come back down the log on the pushing side of the bar - to my knowledge never been done before - still testing this..... Bars and chains are the best they can be for milling. On the 42" Panther mill this is with a thinner lighter GB lo pro bar running Stihl PMX ripping chain. This gives a smoother faster cut with less strain on the powerhead. On the larger mill are the GB extra long bars (these are made to same spec as harvester bars) running 27RX hyperskip chain which allows chainspeed to be better maintained and less chainsaw bounce and of course a LOT less teeth to sharpen. Cons are - slightly slower cut speed and slightly rougher finish to the plank but a LOT more user friendly on a long bar. Heavy duty first cut system - screw direct onto the log, extend by adding sections or use the stainless brackets to screw into the end of the log for better following the grain (and/or use the brackets for supporting longer lengths) Finally a vertical set up that slots into the HEAVY first cut system where you can go up one side/down the other AND adjust outwards 8" independantly of the first cut system - we're still working on that but will be out in around 4 weeks or so - most of the components are from the main Panther mill and are used on the vertical attachment which like the main mill bolts to the bar and cannot slip left or right or up or down. It is also captive on the rails AND I have tried it with a winch and makes vertical milling as effortless as horizontal milling.....
  16. Hmmm... not really and have to say not milled many if any logs that have been that valuable getting the extra slab is worth losing sleep over. There always seems to be loads of wood out of a big tree and it's always a relief to get the last slab out! More important I'd say is you want the job to be as easy on you and your gear as possible given how hard chainsaw milling is so the switch to lo pro is more about that. But on the larger saws the 27RX makes milling so much user friendly although overall speed is slightly slower and finished boards are slightly rougher. The 3/8 lo pro set up is not for everyone as there is less margin for error I'd say.
  17. Just seen you are hanging up the harness Steve - so what you doing then? Webshop specialising in climbing bits and bobs or something totally different (and no need to tell me of course if still under wraps!)

     

    If you think anything we can collaborate on let me know but either way sure it will work out well.

  18. Good luck Steve and I'd lay a few crisp smooth new £10 this won't be the last tree you'll ever climb! One door closes another opens - I still do the odd tree now and again - it feels great to be up there again and also feels great when you come down, take your harness off and know you made the right decision not to be doing it full time anymore... It's not so much the tree climbing that's the downside it's all the nonsense that surrounds it... Either way though onwards and upwards!!
  19. Apologies late reply only just seen this - comes with a light type dime tip carving bar.
  20. There is nothing wrong with Oregon 91VXL chain - one of the best lo pro chains out there in my opinion. Prob it is not ideal for smaller top handled saws - but that does not mean the chain is no good! The bumper drive links although mainly designed for reduced kickback seem to give a smoother cut so if your saw seems overly grabby and it's a new chain maybe switch to 3/8 lo pro .043 chain - this is the 3/8 lo pro in a narrower version and gives a cleaner and smoother cut ie. Oregon 90PX or Stihl 3610. Age of a bar and chain mean nothing if the bar has been damaged - just because a bar is a few days old doesn't mean it's not the bar if something nasty has happened to it.
  21. Apologies late reply - other posters bear in mind 3/8 is not the same as 3/8 lo pro. 3/8 standard chain seems to give little advantage over .404 chain. 3/8 lo pro chain does have advantages over .404 and 3/8 standard. Here is the rub - you can run 3/8 lo pro on the MS880 and we have a 48" bar that does it. Can be used in conjunction with a GB lo pro drive rim. BUT 3/8 lo pro chain is weaker than .404 chain - and we have folk calling up scratching their heads saying their .404 chain on their MS880 has snapped... You need to be fully up together on your chainsaw maintenace and bar maintenace and chain maintenance. And have a good knowledge of the wood you are milling plus your chain sharpening needs to be spot on. I've been using the 48" lo pro bar on my MS880 for around 12 months now with no issues - however if you are rough with your gear (I know no one on here is of course this comment for any guests reading!) then there is a greater risk of chain snapping. You also have to be careful with the wood you mill - super hard ash and yew would also increase risk. Poor chain sharpening with too big a gullet in the tooth would make it too aggressive and put more strain on the chain. .404 chain can cope with the above type issues - 3/8 lo pro might not. Plus there is more chain stretch and also I'm not sure it oils quite as well as a .404 chain. Pros are - gives a lovely clean cut, keeps the speed up and board is smoother.
  22. As above it's Olive ash - I think a fungus induced staining which can vary in depth of colour - but can look extremely attractive.
  23. Got to be worth a saturday to turn that into summat useful ain't it!
  24. Yep I'm not surprised I mean ripple has gone up x350 in 2017?! It does not seem real - but the facts are - Ripple went up x350 in 2017. So whether it seems real or not - them is the facts. Will it keep going up? I expect so but of course there are no guarentees....
  25. Ok Ian done you and Mr Kipling (in terms of 200 Dogecoin before someone starts making lewd assumptions!) That is a wallet you have there. It is a called a 'hot' wallet as they hold the key for you. Less secure but much easier to use. This year will find it easier to spend crypto - at the moment the interface between the fiat and cryto world is the barrier but that will change... Am away for a bit now - so that's all the free Dogecoins sent.... will check back on this thread on my return.

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