Rob D

Yes and No... In the older days of Arbtalk [before we were selling to dealers] we used to to a 10% arbtalk discount. We keep getting asked about this - unfortunetly we don't do this anymore as it undermines our dealers... But we do have offers which we only publish here on Arbtalk. They will be short term and the idea is that you are regularly on this forum using it and hopefully contributing to it. So keep your eyes on our sponsored forum here https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/forum/82-chainsawbars/ as we will have special offers running all the time that you will only be able to find on here ?

Tell you what - anyone that buys the deal, does a test between the LPX and the EXL we'll refund the cost of the chain back to you [after video is posted]. This for whoever does a test not who posts first [within 2 weeks of buying the deal]. Cannae say fairer than that now..

Haha - just a light touch on some tarmac will do! It would be good to get some of the more cynical to try it - as if they think it's better then it must be better! I may try and do a test but got too much milling to do to get the Panther mills out there...

The MS362 we can do you one for - I expect we'll do something like buy one of these EXL chains get the equivalent LPX chain free - you can tell me then if there is a difference.

Yes they should be - but they don't. I'm hoping by making more fuss, generating more sales when they do improve their chain they will continue to do just that. Oregon are now stocking skip link chains in the UK through ourselves - that is a big step forward. Unfortunetly making chainsaw chain is not easy and only x2 companies in the world do it well... Believe me when I say we have looked at many alternatives. I expect they could have produced a chain that cut amazingly well out the box - but the price you'd pay for it would have meant no one would have bought it. Anyways - better late than never I suppose... you going to try some?

No it's cutting nicely - you got the oiler turned up full? Wonder if it's worth you having another bar to see if it makes a difference... up to you we could do you a deal on it - I've used the PMX chain with the 880 without a snapped chain but I prob don't do enough bulk work anymore to give a good judgement or not.

Once you've got it in your hands it def looks different and more high tech. Proof is in the pudding so I guess if you don't try you'll never know. We'll be doing an offer on it this weekend I expect so be good to have some feedback from some cynics out there! What sort of offer would tempt you to try it?

Something is going on if you are snapping the chain regularly - I don't think it would be the angle of sharpening. Good to see you using a guide. It's hard to diagnose the reasons but will try and highlight them in order of mist likely causes: Something is going on with the bar - this is the most likely cause of chain snapping I've had. I see you dress rotate and clean out the bar so not sure if this is the reason in this case. Using a big saw on a small bar - using the MS661 with a 20" bar is definately going to mean there only needs a small margin of error for a chain to snap. Too big a 'hook' in the tooth - or depth gauges too low - the teeth look good on the chain you have there - but if you are putting too big a hook or reducing the depth gauges too low this will put much more strain on the chain - this could well be the reason in this case especially as you said it is breaking on the tooth itself. Too little oil - that chain looks pretty dry and dusty - I am assuming the oiler is turned up full. Usually [but not always!] if everything is cutting well the chain stays pretty clean Damaged drive rim or sprocket - this damages the drive links which in turn damage the bar. So hope that gives you something to go on. If you need to PM me and we can sort a deal on a new bar, drive rim and chain combo so at least then you can rule out the bar as the issue.

Nope not yet but it'll be coming I expect.

Yep - they do look really good and the EXL on 3/8 has a brand new factory grind that mimics the same edge you get with a round file. I'm itching to try one!

Yep that was the dealer [hopefully not us by accident!] - as Stihl have always made their own chain.

Yep the bars maybe but the chain definately is not made in China.

Oregon seem to be upping their game in terms of chain making. They started with 95TXL but they now have EXL which is the 3/8 range. This is not simply a gimmick or new angle on an old product - materials are upgraded, cutting out of the box is improved, stay sharp is better - in short a betetr product [which I haven't tried yet] - but these could well be the best chainsaw chain in the world. What would tempt you into trying some? What about the dedicated Stihl folk out there? How about a dabble and then post your findings here? Available as 95TXL [.325 .050] and 73EXL [3/8 .058] and 75EXL[3/8 .063] but very very soon in 73EXJ[3/8 .058 - full skip] and 75EXJ[3/8 .063 - full skip]. Type in EXL in the search box at the top of chainsawbars to find the options. Plus we are doing an offer on LPX the old style version an all!

Hopefully I've got this poll thing right - what do you think is the best chain in the world right now - Stihl or Oregon? No need to say why or justify why - what do you use and/or think is the best?

Yep it's all here Mat! https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product-category/panther-chainsaw-mills/ I can't wait to start putting it through it's paces.. will be a week or so before I have time.

Yep but only really x4 large wedges. I just haven't had time to do it yet but this mill will be an excellent re saw and you may even be able to use it to plane or get dry wood flat....

Nicely put together review of the Panther 42" Chainsaw mill.

Has taken umpteen hours and a lot of work to complete this mill but it will be ground breaking. Crazy ease of use and accuracy - nothing else like it on the market. This is all brand new but this saw will be able to be used for more than just sawing logs. Designed for 50cc to 70cc saws it seems a little fiddly to set up to start with but once in use you should hopefully see the advantages. 90cc saws will be very quick cutting - and due to how the bar bolts to the upright it could be possible to use a 30" stiff bar such as a Sugi on this to give a massive 25" cutting width. 50cc will be 20" bar max for 15" cutting width 60-70cc can use a 25" bar to get 20" cutting width. You can also use this just as a vertical cutting mill on big logs. Likely you could even mill oversize logs with a smaller chainsaw as well as there is no need for the tip of the bar to clear the log. That in itself is groundbreaking. A long and to be fair boring video which is more for those who actually buy the set up. We'll have these at an intro price at the APF along with other bargains to be found at FR Jones stand [yep I forgot to post this before the APF doh!]

Ok have reminded them to bring but all hell has broken loose trying to get organised for the show!!

Yep - we'll be selling them through Sorbus - they will have a few there but not many - maybe we take more of the Panther mini bars!

Thanks for the pics Bill - that bar still looks really good on the body. The bar body and rails go through different heat and cooling processes to make them harder - Sugi manage the hardest rails but the price to pay is if they get heated they are more likely to chip.

Welcome to the forum - we'd be interested in looking to stock the Log Jack as we are currently missing any sort of log rolling tools from our inventory. Feel free to get in touch. Rob

Yep I've been using them for a while - but as you jack the log up I've always found it tends to fall over one way. They say the base on these is different and stops it from rolling sideways but it doesn't look enough to stop it from doing this.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOREST-MASTER-TIMBER-JACK-TREE-PUSHER-LOG-LIFTER-SAW-HORSE-FELLING-BAR-3-TON/122280226261?epid=2115778871&hash=item1c78782dd5:g:g3cAAOSwo4pYXPwH#rwid Often thought this would work well - but what stops the log from falling over to one side as you are lifting it?