Rob D

Actually here is a complete list - feel free to make any offers - the more bars you have the better the offer can be:

No issues I know of - we got them in to provide a 1/4 option for those who wanted a smoother cut - or those that wanted to easily swap a carving bar for a sprocket nose bar... but seems most carvers prefer to have a dedicated carving saw. They are in both the .043 or .050 whichever you fancy.

I'll have to do an info sheet on what these bars fit....

These bars we also need to shift some of as they are overstocked...

Haha - ok well thanks for feedback - I sort of guess that special offers are personal to each person. I've often thought of doing a personalised type offer but has potential to go horribly wrong! Anyways it's a clearout we want to do - none of the stuff we are clearing out people really want - that's why we need to clear it out! We have got lots of 1/4 pitch bars for small Husky and Stihl saws that we'd do x10 packs of for £60-00+vat. You'd have to change the sprocket of course and run 1/4 chain but we have these in 12",14",16" and 18" to fit the below Stihl and Husky (8",10",12",14",16" for Echo) GROUP 1 Stihl chainsaws Ground chainsaw model 009, 010, 011, 012 017, MS170, MS171 018, MS180, MS181 019, MS190, MS191, MS192, MS193 020, MS200, MS201 021, 022, MS210, MS211 Top handled chainsaw model 019T, MS190T, MS191T MS192T, MS193T 020T, MS200T, MS201T Pole chainsaw model HT70, HT75, HT100, HT101, HT130, HT131 Electric chainsaw model E140, E160, E180 MSE140, MSE160, MSE180, MSE200 Cannon bar code (starts) C1 Oregon bar code (ends) A074 Stihl bar code (starts) 3005 Sugihara bar code (starts) SL2 GROUP 1 Husqvarna chainsaws Chainsaw model 16, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 41 135, 136, 137, 235, 236 315, 316, 318, 320, 321, 333 334, 335, 336, 338 335XPT, 338XPT 540XP Oregon A095 Cannon N/A Top handled chainsaw model T540XP, T435XP, T335XPT, T338XPT, T536Li Pole chainsaw model 327P4, 327PT5S Electric chainsaw model 321 EL GROUP 1 Echo chainsaws Chainsaw model CS280EG, CS310ES, CS352ES, CS370ES CS281WES, CS360WES, CS361WES CS280TES, CS360TES CS280, CS290, CS300, CS301, CS302, CS305 CS315, CS328, CS330, CS340, CS341, CS345, CS346, CS350, CS351, CS360, CS370, CS2600 CS2700, CS2800, CS2900, CS3000, CS3050 CS3350, CS3400, CS3450, CS3500, CS4400 CS280EVL, CS285EVL, CS290EVL, CS300EVL CS320EVL, CS330EVL, CS330EVL, CS360EVL CS304VL, CS351VL, CS280EG, S2600ESC CS260TSEC, CS285EL, CS270E, CS280E E155, ECS150, ESC1850FT, S2000 Sugi Mount BL1, BL2 and EM1 Oregon ends A041

Yep thanks for posting - we can do something like that... The only issue I've found in the past is which chains you allocate with the bar - but maybe we could do the offer with x6 chains of your choice... it's just a bit harder to do in practice as it adds another variable on order - you need to tell us which chain type you want on order. Maybe we could do something along the lines of buy any x2 bars and x1 reel of chain and get the Oregon Breaker and Mender tools free?

We are having a big summer clearout and getting rid of a lot of our bars that have been hard to sell. These bars are none of the ones that are that popular on the whole... ie. 1/4 sprocket nose bars for small Stihl and Husky and Echo... the Sugihara 1/4 .043 bars and chains (as we now have the Panther versions that run the Stihl 1/4 .043 chain). Any ideas? % off rather than quantity? Really we want to get them shifted hence we were going to do more an auction style event where prices will keep going down every week until all is gone... We all get loads of newsletters and e-mails (yawn) with special offers .... hence don't want to the boredom and annoyance really... hence any ideas welcome!

Cheers Bill and thanks for these pics an all

Yep there is always going to be that compromise....

Cheers for feedback Joe - ref the chain teeth getting knocked sideways it's annoying - but I find sometimes you hit metal and get away scot free almost and other times you can several teeth off. Had varying results with different chains. Whether it was because the chain is narrower or not unsure but thanks for taking the time to post.

You may have noticed we have changed the Alaskan Mill sub forum to Panther Mill UK. We helped design the Panther mills and we want them to be and become the market leader. Loglogic manufacture most of the parts so although the profile and some of the connectors are imported a lot of this is UK manufactured. Soon we will be releasing the beta version of the Panther Mill for smaller saws (ie around 50 to 60cc). This will run on the same first cut track as the larger Panthers and you will be able to slide the mounting post from a horizontal mill straight into a vertical mill without having to take the chainsaw off. The smaller horizontal set up will run on the same track as the vertical set up - so the whole system then starts to become modular. This allows you to mill larger logs with a smaller saw but relatively hassle free. The saw stays clamped to the upright post and so you simply slide the post from one system to the other. The vertical system also allows you to adjust the saw away from the track. Some vids should make this clearer but this system will be really good for those not wanting to buy another larger chainsaw.

Now a question often comes up - which is the best? 27R is best on bars up to and inc 36" 27RA (not available for for mid August) for bars around 48" 27RX for bars longer than 48" But of course it depends on you, the saw, the sharpening, the wood you are cutting, and a host of other factors.

With the Oregon 27RX it is only a fraction slower - however on larger cuts it will probably be slightly faster. Is your 120cm bar the 47" Stihl Duromatic Bar? If so consider changing this as it causes a lot of heat and friction on the nose. https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/27rx100r-oregon-hyper-skip-ripping-404-063-100ft-reel-includes-joiners-and-tie-straps/ We sell the 27RX in 100ft reels and you will not find it in 25ft reels. I did a video here on the different types of chain - https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/chainsawbars-videos-2/

If you get stuck we can always do you a longer length with some joiners so you can just shorten it down to what then fits.

Haha! Yep but it's the business really - or us lot would go out of business

Going to be around 6 weeks I think but after that we will have a regular supply Si. It then will give us: Oregon 27R - full comp ripping Oregon 27RA - full skip ripping (arriving around mid August, 2018) Oregon 27RX - hyperskip ripping Oregon are really coming through on helping us to supply these hard to find specialty chains.

Weight is prob best over strapping as it gives a continued force but certainly some dry B&Q plain sawn battons 38mm by 50mm I find work really well.

The Panther Mill comes set up with exactly what is best really - if there were a better set up we would do that as standard. But if on a budget you can still buy a Panther and fit to your own saw and bar combo - you would just need to drill the bar:

Sorry late reply! You need to remove x1 drive link. I had to do this recently on my 64" bar. After removing the drive link then you will be just under midway on the tensioner.

Hi Mat - apologies I never thanked you for the feedback you provided. So thanks! If we make some of those skids you can have a couple. Have you milled anything else recently? Those pics are good!

I wish I hadn't put that about the 27RX leaving a rougher finish as the difference compared to other chains is minimal. That said with all that power you need not use 27RX. Soon (in 6 weeks) we will finally have 27RA again (full skip ripping). Sharpening is so personal how it is done - the better you sharpen a chain the less it will need sharpening. Some sort of a guide every now and again will really pay off. Milling is only pleasant with a sharp chain. If in doubt about what works best for you try a few different ripping chains - yes costs a few £ but if you invest into milling it's worth it in the long run.