Rob D

Sorry to hear that... They will usually be back in 3 months or so as by then you've replaced your gear... I don't know anyone out there who has not had gear nicked... Nothing worse IMO

Just a few kind words and pat on the back at the end of the day I'm not sure I could do too many full days climbing in a row... but prob £200-00 a day as I'm a grafter! I'd include all the lowering gear etc. in that if it was needed.

When you spend 3 weeks chasing someone to change the head gasket on the forklift and when they've finally done it it still sounds like a bag of nails... so out cometh the engine

Great vid by the way and the helmet cam works really well. Cheers for sharing.

So are you a Stihl or a Husky man then Ed !!

I must say I find texting a boon when it comes to organising work. Not for the initial response and quote organising but if you're running late, if you want them to have your details so they can post you a cheque or to say you'll be along tom morn at 8a.m.... You save so much time texting I find....

Have not heard of this happening.... Got 2 7901 and they're still fine - one after 2 years

That's just it - they probably did tell us why but I'm going back 8 years or so now... I was younger then! It feels right to me to do a sink/gob cut around the 20% to 25% region - i.e there is more control than if you do it at 50%... But in this case I feel ignorant in that I can't give any weight to my arguement because I don't know the theory behind it ...

I'm sure there is other reasons for the gob/sink cut to be around the 20% to 25% mark other than to reduce timber wastage... As in reasons of forces, where the hinge is etc... but it'll take someone with more knowledge than me to say why a 20%-25% gob/sink is more effective than a 50% gob/sink..... Why are we taught on all the NPTC courses it should be around 20% if it doesn't really matter?

Why aren't people planting walnut trees? The number of silver birch I have seen planted on golf courses, gardens, streets etc but why not lovely walnuts?! No wonder there isn't any to mill in this country any more!

Have a go yourself - you can always get a job doing line clearance or working with another firm if things don't work out ... The more varied the work you do i.e maybe a bit of gardening in the summer, then the better chance you'll have of success

Dry your logs in a polytunnel - on hot days I have registered 40 degrees + and it feels like hit a wall going inside...! Have the doors open each end and let the air waft through... Kilning logs with dehumidifiers or anything else like this is an unneccesary waste of energy IMO... Let the sun do it - it's free

200 tonnes all stored split as it hits the yard and stored in polytunnels over summer... Count me in!

Ditto the above although was the gob/sink cut made too narrow and that is what caused the hinge to snap? If you have a tree leaning back and you want to make sure the hinge holds you need a nice big open gob cut cause as soon as that closes the hinge will snap instantly... And also as Stevie said the gob cut only wants to be 10-20% where as you have gone half way into the tree... Maybe leave the hinge thicker - have someone pulling as you're doing the backcut and as soon as the tree is moving stop cutting - leave that hinge as thick as possible to support any sideways lean as you bring it over the pivot point. As soon as he is over the pivot point (pull steady up until then) start pulling hard and give the tree momentum in the direction you want it to go.

There's two firms near me who buy all the straight oak I come across - Quest timber and New Forest Oak Frame Buildings... So plenty of oak framing going on still! I tried a bit of clefting oak shingles and it wasn't all that hard either (bit the wood has to be very fresh and very straight). You need to get hold of a froe and that's pretty much all you need Got them bagged up at mo all different sizes - was going to ue them for some oak log shelters we're making.

I just sell ripping chains off my site.. but my advice would be the following. For the bars the oregon numbers etc mean nothing to most people. For bars I would start off with a drop down menu with all chainsaws on i.e. Husky, Stihl, etc. People select their saw. Then new page/new drop down where people pick their model of saw. Then new page/drop down where people pick the length of bar they want. Then final page/drop down where people see the bars you supply of that length that fit their saw (with the prices next to them). For chains I think you need 2 methods of ordering. One method where people know the details of chain they want i.e. pitch, guage and number of drive links. Having a loop of 72LP oregon means nowt to most (I include myself and I sell chains albeit the ripping variety), I would have 72LP - 3/8 pitch .058 (if that's what it is). The second method should be based on the bar selector method i.e. select saw, select model, select bar length, then final menu gives types of chain and prices. On my website I think it quite easy to buy chains with a drop down menu of how many drive links you want but only if they know the chain for their saw - when I over haul my site I'm going to try and make it easier for people with a system as above. Everyone knows what make, what model and what bar length they have. They tell us this and we as the supplier can then tell them the chain! Simples! I think not and it means having a full and comprehensive database... but it'll sell stuff easier and it means you're not on the phone going through catelogues to tell people what chain they need. Your website will do it for them. All easier said than done mind you!

Ian Leach is a good person to talk to I think when it comes to woodturning... seems to really know his stuff.

I can imagine that you are going to have the pieces of hazel as a border for a sign. The best way I think would be to use a table saw with a retractable blade so you can control how far the grove is onto the wood... these would only leave a 3mm or so groove... I have a table saw but virtually zero proper carpentry skills! But someone you know nearby must have one - it would only have to be a DIY type one.

John Shutler may be able to advise as he's a qualified chippie and has actually done a few oak frames.... I'm not sure you'd want to dry it first as green oak frames are obviously all done out of fresh oak. It'll take years to dry out 5x5s and then some may well move too much to be used... In the oak frame buildings they seem to like using 6x6s. I know from speaking to John he said the frame can be green as it's the weight of the building that holds it in place as it starts to dry out. A peterson mill would make a lovely job of cutting those beams though - shame you're so far away!

I'm guilty - thought it was ok to substitute letters. Will not happen again. Apologies.

Not sure but interested to find out. Where do you get the info on what the saw should be revving at?

Ride one of them to the job and then ride back on out again!

Ho ho! That's a long build up

You can get away with a broken little toe... they can't really do much for it. I broke my big toe 6 months ago... totally my own stupid fault. Was due to go to France on holiday - the night before I'd finished work and was wandering around the yard making sure everything was secure. Saw a few planks that I thought I'd tidy out the way. Was 'walking' the third one over and let it fall against the other 2. It sort of bounced off and the bottom sprung back 4 inches or so onto my big toe... and broke it! Wasn't wearing boots as wasn't really working.... still no excuse.... just tired and careless... Wasn't too bad, but no surfing while I was on holiday and I could work gingerly with it when I came back.... but what a prize **** I felt!