Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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Ditto the above. But also remember 1 billion and a bit seconds ago the world was at war and genocide was taking place on an unprecedented scale. A few billion seconds before that the world was at war and if someone said 'over the top' you couldn't then start arguing the various health and safety implications before doing so. Half a billion seconds ago and more conservation and sustainability (politically wise) didn't happen - there's much more awareness these days. So yes it's all corrupt these days and the banks are the lowest form of life but it could be a whole lot worse than in 'the good ol days'! It's not all bad and it could be a lot worse....
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What a bunch of *****! Charging you to get your own gear back - Scum do not come much lower.
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Lived in a caravan type trailer for coming onto 7 years now... no near neighbours and can keep an eye on all my gear but does get a mite chilly first thing in the morning Still when I've made my first million I am def going to get carpet put in!
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Drying time I find is around 8 weeks for 2" oak. It takes a bit of time playing around kilning wood. Wastage isn't too bad but then the stuff I make I don't have to worry about the odd crack or 5
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I'd certainly do 20% off the furniture prices for regular orders but whether that's enough to cart the stuff around I don't know... Or if someone wanted 5 benches no doubt I could do something on that.
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Just to sum up (and that this isn't a wind up) take the job and count your very many blessings. Someone has taken the time to try you out. It's a right pain trying new people so just balance that with your trial day.
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Oak in wide boards is one of the hardest if not the hardest to get dry without any defects. But even with a crack or two it will still look good as a table top. The wider the board the more tension and stresses tend to build up across it's width as it drys. As said oak does well if taken very gently in the first year. I've done a basic drying guide here if it helps alaskan mill I home of the portable chainsaw mill
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I have no kids and missus just turned 40. All the time I have known her she does not want to have children (6 years now). So there's my quota of two up for grabs
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No worrys all in stock
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Bigger saws you tend to do big logs that are nice and stable, smaller saws you tend to do all the annoying bits that won't go in the chippers and cross cut small logs that are on the top of logs piles! Receipe for kick back!
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There's a screw underneath the saw (turn it upside down) that you can turn to turn the oiling amount down. But a tank of oil to a tank of fuel is about right when the oil is turned to max... surely not that expensive on a 200t though!
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Excellent got that into a lovely beam and nice to hear you already have a home for it.
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That's a great collection there !
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She is still an inspirational person. Just to get out in the water again after a shark attack like that. Makes me feel real humble... always a good feeling.
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That saws prob a bit too powerful for carving.. All the stihl, cannon and oregon carving bars have super hard tips so you won't damage them by overheating. Also you'll be running the chain slacker which also helps. Carving bars have generic bar mounting which is posh for saying they fit most small chainsaws be it Stihl or Husqv etc
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Enjoyed reading all your posts there Ty!
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It does seem to be a bit like marmite the sawpod! Love it or hate it... I've pulled the saw out pulling the rope up but not to the extent it cut into it... If it does I may go back to a scabbard but until then my wee neoprene buddy will continue to live on my leg!
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We've all got to start somewhere Mark!
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It's a good idea but I think the trouble is most of nicked gear now goes out of the country to Eastern Europe...
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Why did having the saw pod cause you to cut your rope?
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Do all professional chainsaw users think joe public users are fools?
Rob D replied to egnsean's topic in General chat
I appreciate what you're saying. But bear in mind even the pros with all the gear, knowledge and training have accidents. When using your chainsaw do you have the basic PPE? i.e. trousers, boots, helmet? Most people that use a chainsaw with no training feel quite safe to do so. If you have the cash could you not just do the basic certs? -
I've used a 441 and 260 before and it worked well. But really you need to saws you don't want to use for anything else. I've gone back to a single powerhead as it's just less hassal!
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Like the saw dogs on your saw - are they custom and did you make them?
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I take it this was a sarcastic 'small fee' £86-00 - who's going to pay that? Is it going to be that different from the old version? What a joke.
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Bear in mind the import duty is not the big one - usually only around 2% but there's usually a processing charge (which varies) and always vat. You'll struggle to save money buying from the states with the exchange rate at the moment of £1 to $1.59 When it was £1 to $2 then you would have prob saved some money then.
