Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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Do you have a mill of any sort? A chap called Scott Coles loves Lawson for his softwood framed buildings - PM me if you want his number as it depends on where you are in the country, if you have a mill, extraction etc etc He says it is one of the most durable timbers for what he does.
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Welcome to the forum - have a look at the chainsaw mills I sell - alaskan mill I home of the portable chainsaw mill and Chainsawbars ? bars, chains and chainsaw accessories As looking at what you are doing I think you would find them handy.
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Seen it before - excellent vid
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He can do if he's after using a dime tip bar but if he's happy to run a quarter tip bar then the 3/8 lo pro will be fine and no need to change the sprocket.
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<p>Alright there... go onto my website <a href="http://www.chainsawbars.co.uk" rel="external nofollow">Chainsawbars ? bars, chains and chainsaw accessories</a></p>
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<p>Sign up - then tell me via PM or here.</p>
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<p>I can then set discount to 10%. Postage - hmmm I have it at £29-50... but I suppose it could go royal mail....</p>
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<p>Get signed up first then have a look at the various carving stuff there and we'll sort out what you want to buy first,</p>
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<p>Rob</p>
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Possibly in the end you could make a living but like all things it takes a good bit of time, lots of hard work and more time... It's boring but work out a business plan or just a plan... how will you get saws to repair? Is it worth looking at having an internet component i.e. a website whereby you organise the collection of a saw and then return it repaired?
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Yep I'm sticking some bread out there today!
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Why not do a bit of a combo and chainsaw mill it into larger sections and if looks really good move out these smaller sections to another mill... if so so carry on chainsaw milling.
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Hope you get a few replies
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Just to add to this Dan - I had this happen the other day using the 090... chain was really bouncing around on the back of the bar but halfway down seemed to be fine... Turns out that when I had the bar clamped I had pinched a slight bend into bar... released the nose clamp and the bar straightened... re tightened the nose clamp and the chain was fine.... It was easy to see on the 60" bar but this could have been the cause of the problem.
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The 090 revs lower than the MS880 but just does not seem to bog down as easily... it slows in larger wood but still keeps on going through it... where the 880 can quickly get bogged down which is why it is prob happier on a 42" bar... But I think milling 40"+ diameter with a chainsaw will always be a bit slow and hard work.
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Thanks Jon - it was the owners design for the table so again I can't take much credit!
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The 72" one gives 56" of cutting width Martin - I've not used one yet but they are much wider in the middle than other long bars and seem more rigid.
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Keep on trucking Nick - you work hard for your money and not really sure why the animosity that seems to come over in a couple of the posts on here.
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They are not cheap - will be £590-00+vat although I'll still do 10% off for arbtalkers.... milling width of a full 6 foot and yep would be mental with x2 090s or x2 076s! I'll be using with a single powerhead I think and see how I get on as have a 6 foot wide oak in the yard.
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Many thanks all - have to say that another carpenter did the cutting out for the sink as he and I did not trust me to do it
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Ha ha! More cake if you're offering
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Yep had some really nice colour which should go very dark as it dries out. A few more pics...
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Here's some shelves I did for one of the houses at Exbury gardens. Round table - made from elm and black poplar - joined for me at a joinery place round the corner. Shelves in bathroom - walnut from a big walnut near Basingstoke. Elm supplied by Big J - there were a couple of triangular shelves but these had not been put up yet!
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Thanks Paul - not your fault at all of course - but as said above if I did attend I'd get my own timber organised. It wasn't what they supplied it was how much they wanted for it which was the problem.
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That was just the problem though Paul - the first time I did the show - £60-00 for some nice oak to saw.... the second time £100, the third £120... all fair enough bear in mind the estate keeps the sawn wood for themselves i.e. they supply it and get paid and have it sawn free. Then the last time 3x 8' foot long ash logs 20" diameter - too dry for milling as the boards were splitting with the tension in them halfway down... £360-00!!! And was told, "People that have had logs off the estate to demo milling in previous years have not paid so we have had to charge more this year. This is the price of wood these days" What a joke! If I did it there I'd organise my own timber.
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Been very slack recently and not taking any pics of milling but am now going to try and post each and every time.... Took the Stihl 090 out on some 36" ash a couple of days ago. Had a fair bit of shake but some nice colour and also nice crotch flaring. Instead of leaving the boards whole used a carving bar to cut down and through all the shake lines in order to make the boards easier to handle and have less distortion. The 090 is a lovely saw to mill with - easier to start than the 880, idles beautiful, the way the power is delivered is more torquey and less aggresive - just powers it's way stolidly through the log. I have some new 84" double ended bars from Granberg now and so the 090 will be going on one of those soon! This set up is with a 59" Stihl Rollomatic bar and oregon .404 skip link ripping chain (which they no longer supply in the UK:sneaky2:).
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It's a very good discussion - what is it worth - all my dealings in wood have told me 'it's worth what someone will pay for it'. You could have wood worth x y and z - but if you have no one to buy it this value is irrelevant.
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Concentrate on getting your chain sharpening skills better and you will get much more out of that saw.
