b101uk

Its unlikely to be a “very high spec” in Unimog terms, despite what someone my tell you to sell it you What’s the VIN number (e.g. WDB4371171W######) so I can pull-up the data card & see what spec it originally left the factory in.

finished at 17:30h on the 23rd & back at 07:30h on the 5th, but I may go & pickup a Rayco 50 from work so I can weld in new main kingpin bushings over the xmas/new-year brake to save downtime given I will be working away on-site doing ~9km of fencing & no one else will do it at work.

I am intrigued as how you came to a £50k price tag for your mog in the classifieds? Or how much do you value the TP chipper at? & the PTO winch at (and which type of F64.1 is it)? I know the exchange rate is much less now than 9 months ago BUT Germany/EU is feeling the recession to so the € price of used mogs has dropped vs. 9 months ago because there are more on the market with fewer people chasing them out there.

All I will say is, I have known chippers do weird things they are not supposed to do especially when relays start playing up. Also by the side of the A12 you stand a high chance of trucks/vans passing with extremely powerful CB including lorries from other countries (docks), if you didn’t know powerful CB can trigger relays to operate of there own accord, its not unheard of for some CB’s to be 800W+ (legal limit is 4W) - on one of the tractors I use to drive had a 400W CB, if I was to park my 504 pickup running within 40ft of the tractor & key the mic the intermittent wipers would trigger & the high beam lights would flash - (the TW190 electrics are not that well shielded, nor use high quality shielded relay) Also with a tracked chipper if they are parked on a bit of a hump in the centre of the tracks they will rock back and forth on start-up or as the revs build when the full throttle button is pressed, if branches are stacked in the feed chute then as it rocks it can activate the stop bar momentarily as it rocks one way then by a cruel twist of fate it would only take a small twig to push the feed button & you would have had an uncommanded start of chipping as the rocking down motion also pushes any branches touching the ground towards the feel rollers, besides if an uncommanded start of chipping occurred then you have 2 choices, hit the emergency stop if it’s a danger or just let it complete its cycle if there is no danger. Perhaps he is like most people including bosses & think that it is imposable for chippers to do uncommanded start of chipping, but some of us know better than to trust any machine 100% with regards to safety systems or unseen external forces - perhaps one of your relays is playing up shorting out 10’s of thousands of times a second making your TW190 look like a Shilka to a passing F16’s RWR (radar warning receiver) & ALR-69 threat warning system triggering the ECM (electronic countermeasures) via the ALQ-131 pod to emit a highly focused electromagnetic beam & multi spectrum modulating radio signal making relays go haywire/trigger all before the pilot gets to override it because you don’t get hostile Shilka in the UK. (the above is unlikely BUT still plausible)

Using hand-guns as an e.g. of Knee jerk reaction from government vs. possible Knee jerk reaction from government with chainsaws IF “some loony would run amok with a chainsaw he'd just walked in and bought from B&Q or Argos” or whent around a school etc Then you would probably find everyone would have to revert back to bow saws including forestry & arb professionals, so the currant status-quo of “have a go hero's” & professionals would remain.

Iveco, not quite true unless you are thinking of 7.5t stuff <3 years old, even then you have still missed out the steel radiator guard & standard tyres (9.5R17.5 [tipper] vs. 205/75R17.5 [road]) the diff ratio fitted as standard. yes some Mercs are the same like the D's, but if you look back at the old 814/817 the road chassis gave good ground clearance so most people used the short road chassis rather than the tipper chassis which is what the AK's (all wheel drives) are based on. about the only truck I can think off over the years that didn’t have a tipper chassis was the old MAN 8136 & 8150 with the VW based cab which were prone to sump damage & the steering track-rod being bent

If you are looking at 7.5t trucks (and above) Remember that you get road chassis with tippers fitted & tipper chassis with tippers fitted, the latter is better as a tipper because the rear axel is set closer to the back cross member & the chassis are normally shorter, the radiators & sump are set higher up, the suspension is a bit higher on the rear & the front axel is of a flatter design (spring mounts vs. kingpin) which levels the unit out & the front bumper has more clearance as its normally of a different design, which all aid off-road use on tracks or even landfill sites. i.e. some of the Ivico euro cargo (road chassis) things have an absolutely crap ground clearance and can barely get over a house brick without it taking out the radiator/fan/sump/etc

If you have the space I was actually being serious! Fireworks You don’t have to use lots, you just need to use enough 12v bulbs with the glass broken off so the element is exposed make good igniters & suitable long lengths of wire + a 12v car battery is all you need Obviously don’t overlook safety & legal considerations

why not use a drill to bore a hole then use black-powder/ cordite/ explosive

http://i114.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid114.photobucket.com/albums/n251/MattyF_bucket/lime003.flv

Things are only expensive if you have the wrong people driving/operating them Your average employee doesn’t give a dam, they don’t check oil & water or grease things & will run things to destruction rather than stop to see what’s wrong There was a time when “drivers”/”operators” were individuals with extensive mechanical knowledge on-par with a mechanic, so were mechanically sympathetic with machinery because they understood how a system worked & had an understanding of forces involved + had to repair it if it broke, sadly this is no longer the case

Did they mean NW of Norwich

Me to, the demount PF9000 has 4 legs with the front 2 legs set at an angle so the can extend just forward & out of the front axel, couple this with being able to lift the 8.5t mog completely off the ground makes lifting at maximum weight/reach very stable/level & when you just need a crane you don’t have to take a trailer!

Looks good, A friend who I work for as a mog driver etc & other things has a similar outfit A U1500 with a PF9000 remote control double extension demount on the back, a Werner F64.1 M1 SW/C P.T.O winch with remote on the front, a 13.5T Müller Mitteltal tipping trailer with higher sides (17m3) which normally gets paired up with a tracked 10” chipper.

provided the brakes worked & the lights & other basic things (noting in respect to the VOSA etc, that if it is fitted it must work) i.e. if it has a fog light fitted - it must work if it has brakes fitted to both axels - they must work on both axels. if it has a hand brake - it must work on all axels it is connected to BUT the maximum speed is still 20mph as the maximum speed for a valmet/JD/MF/Claas/NH/etc/etc/etc is 20mph regardless if it has a 40k or 50k box (class 1 vehicles)

It wouldn’t mater if you drove with it behind a mog or Fastrac at 1mph on the road it would still be just as illegal as if you were doing 60mph Mogs, Fastrac, trucks, cars, bus, etc & there trailers are class 2 vehicles (>20mph) which must by definition conform to higher requirements than class 1 vehicles (<20mph) sorry

Tyres not speed rated up to mog speeds. Axels not rated above 20mph. Brakes will lack the 50% minimum efficacy for use above 20mph. Brakes are oil hydraulic. Rocking beam with stub axels. Lighting dose not conform to Lighting Regulations >25mph. i.e. behind a mog or fastrac any trailer must conform to the higher standard of Construction & Use, Lighting Regulations & type approvals of parts as per a truck or one of its trailers regardless of the mogs VED catogory

it would be ilegle to tow that trailer behind a mog at any speed

I am flat out hear, have been working for a friend for the past 3 months, an urgent couple of days that turned into 5+ days a week. I am either driving 360 or 3cx etc diggers, Unimog with crane, tractors, trucks, or in the workshop looking after the arb/etc fleet, loading woodchip, fabricating bespoke ironwork & generally doing anything but pick up a saw or pushing a pen. Just started 9km of fencing for him today which should help keep me busy with the above, but its not a simple job if only for the fact of having to keep the tenant , the landlord , a government agency, the architect & my friend happy!

I drive a Valtra 8150 (40kph) with reverse drive quite often, In all honesty it has a crap turning circle (far worse than my Unimog u1600) unless the independent brakes are used With the mulcher (2000kg) on the back there is very little weight on the front axel even with some weight on the front linkage witch makes the steering worse. By the same comparison if I transport the same mulcher on the back of my u1600 though it looks a bit nose-up due to the rear suspension dropping there is no ill affects on the steering on road at 56mph or off road (though its obviously much easer to use the Valtra in reverse drive wile mulching!) Other than that, they seem durable, reliable & reasonably well though out.

It just requires what is termed as a “universal antifreeze” (suitable for cast/steel & alloy blocks etc) I.e. Ethylene Glycol based etc.

True, it may have had good quality anti-freeze in it - but how long ago, how much water has been added since then & what was its original mix % & its currant mix % A mog should have 50% water (10L) & 50% anti-freeze (10L) Its worth noting that steel etc is always colder than the ambient air temperature so any water encased by the steel will be colder than water directly exposed in e.g. a puddle on the ground given time, if you factor in wind-chill this will lower steels temperature even further vs. ambient air temperature so a -3°C ambient air temperature could quite easily be translated as -18°C steel temperature in exposed places. Take a trailed chipper, they normally have a radiator at the front, what do you expect the temperature of the radiator will be if you towed it 20miles to work in the morning in a modest -8°C ambient air temperature at 50mph behind your vehicle - given heat travels from hot to cold & the function of the radiator in doing this vs. wind-chill. As for past overheating weakening gaskets, its possible but it more depends on if the water boiled or not, normal water boils at ~100°C as per a kettle (steam), in a captive water system like an engine pressurization is used to raze waters boiling point, each 1psig of pressure razes the boiling point by ~2°C, so if the system uses 15psig pressure the boiling point of water will be ~130°C, if Anti-freeze/summer coolant is added this will raze the boiling point still further & the temperature gauge will be able to read temperature correctly as the water is still fluid, once boiling takes place then steam (vapour blocks) creating voids ware localised engine temperature can rise very high >200°C causing damage & localised over-pressure due to rapid vapour expansion & temperature senders wont read this. This is why when a modern engine gets above 100°C you should be very wary, as if you release the pressure the water that wasn’t boiling will start boiling after about <10sec once the pressure drop has reached the engine core, (steam trains, steam turbines etc use pressurisation to super heat water thus creating super heated steam which expands much more than normal steam once under pressure drop in e.g. a cylinder or turbine etc.

I have never found anti-freeze to be expensive, but is often overlooked causing engines to overheat rapidly and to have very high internal pressures if run like that which can crack blocks or easily damage head gaskets or twist-off water pump impellors (the mog water pump has a slip clutch so it doesn’t do this if it freezes but the clutch only has a short life-span) From Saturday to Wednesday it never got above freezing hear for any length of time & puddles of water have been frozen all week until yesterday.

The best method is to remove the skip from a swivel skip site dumper then fix a chipper (removed from its trailer chassis) to the swivel mechanism, you then have 180deg of movement for positioning the feed chute & no logistical problems getting from ware you can access tracks to the job site & you can spend more time doing the job rather than “tracking” a slow chipper miles given the time constraints of track-works & penalties for late opening. (remembering to reverse the front axel tyres to assist with climbing out over rails) Tracked dumpers also work quite well given they are as fast forward as in reverse, but as with anything tracked running in or over rail lines you need to carry rail ramps as tracks won’t climb out between the rails etc to well.

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