b101uk

i thought the 40% EU grant had ended

They were mostly made by Werner (Werner Forst und Industrietechnik) who have had a long tie-up with Merc. Werner makes most of the winches you see on mogs (the big red PTO front, rear & mid-mount forestry single and double drum) they also made the skidding plates (belly plates etc to protect from branches etc) and the butt-plates/sprags They also own the rights to the MB-Trac and made it for a wile before renaming it to WF-Trac which is still made now. To get one to the USA speak to Scott at EI as he ships containers to the USA and I think has someone in Belgium/Germany who deals with it this side of the pond so you may only have to get it moved to there then pay a shipping fee to Scott

The slave cylinder will be the same unit that goes on most of the om366 powered range from 814 to 1317 and maybe as high at the 1818/1820 Any 3rd party truck factors place should be able to sort out a new slave cylinder. Is the clutch peddle not spring loaded to return it to the top of its stroke. Dose it look like it has had a new clutch master cylinder on it as the “throw” of the adjusting rod may be out as could a new peddle upper bump-stop vs. the adjusting rod etc or any switch for a starting interlock

Don’t put the kero in your bulk tank, just have it in barrels ready to mix as and when needed, however you will have to keep an eye on coming weather or pre mix some barrels of red/kero for use. Fyi: you can add 2-stroke oil for the quantity of kero used to add lubricity. Mog owners read your operator manuals about diesel fuels and the mixing of petrol (<30%) OR kero (<50%) for dealing with cold.

It’s worth noting that the council aren’t going to pay you to clear/grit estate roads because they are not necessarily obliged to do so simply as they don’t take the traffic volume per hour, also only 1 route into/out of a village is obliged to be cleared with access to a major road however major roads always take priority and lesser roads wont be done until major roads are cleared/gritted. The council will only pay ~£26/hour for a 4wd tractor with a snowplough and ~£35/hour with a snow blower. The only way to make money for such a small vehicle as a quad bike would be via private entities BUT if you clear snow or grit private places then regardless of vehicle classification you are obliged to use full duty paid fuel. Most councils have lots of farmers with snowploughs on there books BUT seldom call them out on mass. Also councils may require your NVQ in winter maintenance. Either way private entities are ware the big money is in snow clearing however buying an area “franchise” is a bit of a joke at best though its how its done in the states but they pay silly money out there ware its easy to earn >$200/hour with Unimogs with big ploughs & blowers.

As soon as the other person flees or try’s to self-defence no longer exists in your mitigation, Chasing someone down the street then bludgeoning them is NOT self-defence or defence of a 3rd party (coming to there aid) neither is it detaining them using minimal force AKA a “citizens arrest” Had he bludgeoned him in his own home had he or his family been attacked in it then that would be very different BUT minimal force would still apply.

On a conventional tractor with smaller front tyres than rears the affects with regards to “traction” in reverse are less due to them being bias to producing traction from the rear axel due to weight distribution/tyre size, as they are classed as “front wheel assisted” (FWA) as they have there routes in 2wd design! With tractors that have equal sized wheels all around then these are classed as true 4wd so my above post holds true much more.

The front tyres (agri type pattern) are reversed so they 1: last longer. 2: improve braking force. 3: improve directional stability (steering). 4: improve traction in reverse gear. 5: gives the mog an equal amount of traction in both directions 6: they climb out of mud ruts much easer due to the tread blocks grip the edges rather than pushing the tyre back into the rut. An agri type tyre tread pattern only has <70% of its traction in reverse, i.e. if you assign 100 to each tyre for its traction forwards then with 4 tyres in “normal” orientation you would expect grip to be 400 travailing forwards but only <280 in reverse gear, if you run the front tyres oriented backwards then grip is 340 in both directions! Remember tractor tyres are made for going in 1 direction pulling something and not necessarily to climb out of a plough furrow

Are you running on red or DERV? When was the mog fuel tank last filled up & from ware? If it is from your own bulk tank when was this last filled up? What was the temperature last night/today ware you live? If you have summer diesel then –5deg C is enough for waxing to happen. Regardless of the above red always smokes more than DERV though om352 always smoke more than om366 and om366 start easer anyway. If your red is from your bulk tank and was purchased prior to mid oct/1st Nov then it stands a high chance of being summer grade so you can winterise you fuel by adding 30% kero (28sec gas oil) witch is good for down to –10degC or mix at 50% for –15degC though always mix at the lowest % you can. # FYI: if you are on winter fuel then 30% kero is good for down to –20degC (winter fuel is good down to –15degC anyway) # # = Note kero is not road fuel or taxed as per red so you should pay the revenue on it to HMRC to make up the difference between kero and red or kero and DERV. If you have a “start pilote” then get a refill aerosol which will help cold starting when very cold

the new 2013 Land Rover Defender

For what its worth IMO its better to equip a mog to output CW rotation on the front so you can run ANY rear mounted PTO implement on the front. Get a proper front mounted chipper you can then not use it on the rear of any other tractor or the mog. Its easy enough to make a frame to go from a Unimog DIN, Schmidt or WM1A/B plate or frame to a CAT2 or CAT3 3pt on a chipper/implement so it is mounted in a close coupled manner rather than via lift arms. Reversing gearbox are quite common and available from agricultural or industrial places, it only needs to be 1:1 ratio or there abouts, 6 spline 1”3/8th are common inputs/outputs for them as are there male/female coupler/flanges.

Just get a simple reversing gearbox for the front PTO shaft then just use a rear mounted chipper on the front but make it close coupled. If you need mog parts stateside try Scott at expedition imports (CA) or Sean at Eurotruck importers (GA) or look on Unimog - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum ware a lot of stateside mog owners hang out.

I wander what the nose-weight is given there is only the mass of the feed chute behind the axel. Given they are ~780kg then any more than >78kg (>10%) nose-weight would make it illegal to use on the road in the EU

See HMRC notice 75 Section 8.0 to 8.21 excepted vehicles. NOTE: NAAC, NFU & ConFor hung arb out to dry with respect to the consultation with the HMRC as arb is horticultural and NOT forestry as far as the above is concerned BUT no one representing horticultural activity was involved in the consultation. As a result lots of LA/CC who ran tractors on red now have to use DERV and have had to pay the HMRC vast sums of money in fines for something that was “legal” before the consultation changes.

The NPTC refused to issue a card for my blue book CS10/11, they said I needed to provide a photo for the card which I flatly refused to do on principal that they would not supply me with there data protection info on who they would supply my data to etc and that they could not supply proof of the article of law that gives them the right to require a photo to issue a “qualification” or card, I have had the same problems with LANTRA with regards to other NVQ’s which I have certificates for. Its worth remembering even the police don’t have the right or powers to take your photo unlike your finger prints when you are arrested, so if the police don’t have the right to have/require a photo on arrest then some money making cash cow that lines peoples pockets under the flimsy guise of safety doesn’t To quote from the NPTC website Is there really any substitute to 22 years of on the job training/experience?

LOL

its a Boeing B17 flying fortress named "Sally B"

FYI: road planings (tarmac scalpings) are classed as hazardous waste, to use tarmac scalpings to construct, repair and maintain tracks and roads requires an exemption, the exemption is known as a 19A exemption

Concrete railway sleepers are good for making tracks & you can take them back up after easily to move them or level out any that drop, and they will take a high loading You just need to dig the ground out so they are just proud of the surrounding ground surface which also stops the moving sideways then put gravel in the gaps.

yes, my mog

Hear is a Unimog/fencing set-up (available for hire )

It’s all very well BUT all the time the digger is moving the spoil in the trailer it is not digging, levelling, etc and effectively making the job last longer vs. employing another driver on a hired wheeled/tracked dumper which can move faster and can probably carry more spoil per trip.

It dose make me laugh the utterly STUPID prices people have paid for years for arb related machines like chippers be they 4” or 4’ capacity given the small cost of parts & materials that go into them vs. end user purchase cost, it seams for the past 20 years there have been to many people willing to pay crazy money for new chippers etc. You have only got to look at the complexity, mass, total number of individual parts of lots of other machines from other industries to see.

Err its an agri machine not an agri tractor thus its 21 years as its >7500kg

The police rely on UV light to see smartwater, if they cannot see it they wont look further with respect to finding smartwater unless something else links the item to being possibly something stolen. Variable frequency UV lights are not hard to come across! If you put smartwater on a painted surface like a e.g. your chipper and I decide to relive you of it because I don’t want to part with my money then I may repaint it just to hide any identifying scratches etc or shadows from sign writing, what happens to your smartwater if its rubbed down and has a layer of paint over it, what if I get a sandblaster out and strip the chipper down and remove all paint down to bare metal then repaint. What happens if you put smartwater on the tarnish that protects galv or alloys that is the barrier that protects them, the oxidised tarnish smartwater would be on can easily be removed. What effect would an etching primer have on smartwater given its basically an acid to pit the mettle surface to get around bonding issues caused by oxidised tarnish. Etc, etc, etc.