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Brushcutter

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Everything posted by Brushcutter

  1. There is a set of the 357!
  2. We have our own mill. So a 6' log will have 6" of overcut on. So we cut on the line.
  3. If i'm cutting 7's say i'll make sure that i'll cut just over it so that once the its's 7' after the saw has gone through. If the list says cut at x feet or x meters thats what the log has to be. Cut with a square ends too. I tend to mark my cuts as i walk up the stem and cross cut on the way back down to the butt to move onto the next one. I have a loggers tape. Their quite expensive but a must really for the woods. On pro cutting jobs that has a spec of say 6' and your measuring say 2 chainsaw lengths and a bar. Your logs will be just too long or too short. That means when they get to the sawmill they will get rejected.
  4. I've seen lots of these quad trailers and often wondered about the guarding issue. I've neary got logs in the cab when forwarding a fair few times. It only takes a moment of confusion to pull the stick the wrong way and hit your self with the logs.
  5. Nice set up. Fantastic things those Alpine Tractors. Out of Interest how do you get around not having to have it all guarded up being so exposed. When i did my FMOs the guy had a bit of a tantrum and refused to do it till the side widows and back windows were guarded as we could get logs in the cab.
  6. Must be mid diamter roundwood volume i bet.
  7. Hardwoods for firewood i tend to cut at 2.4 or 3m depending on whos having it. It tends to be 3m more and more as its harder for people steal. Unfortuantly at 3 you can only have one length on the forwarder where as a 2.4 you can have two. Hardwood mainly 6'6 10'6 and 13' Biggest is about 4.7m All cut to order Softwoods all 4.1m. untill you hit the branch stuff no good for milling then its 3m for chipping. Sometimes i'll do 2.5m for fencing material.
  8. Sound like hard work to me. Prehaps there best left to people who need to learn about line thinnings dealing with hung ups and small tree felling. Ideal for people doing CS31:001_tt2:
  9. I get mainly difficult woodlands we have lots of neglected woods down here. I know what you mean about not being able to find a rhythem. Brash at the top i don't mind but when you have to brash your way into every tree i get quite dishartened.
  10. I worked it out at each tree being about 23 on a single tree tariff. about 0.35 volume over bark. I'd still go for doing 10m3 but which would bre about 30 trees at that volume. At a push i could get 40 done if hand ups weren't too frequent which would be about 15m3. Hats off to Jonathan they be some fast and efficent cutting your doing to get volumes like that. If you were paid by the tonne you'd of been happy that day.
  11. There is an article in the March FCA about CS50. My biggest consern with it is people tackeling big trees that really need the knowledge, skills and experence you get in CS32 to do. But because they've done a windlown ticket they think they can handle. I do think its good that there is some rope assessted felling stuff in there.
  12. I got that from Shell but with a Husky Combi can. I wrote to Shell with pics of the can and all the EN numbers on it. Never had a problem again.
  13. Put myself in the 5-10 catagory. Depends on what the spec is. If it's 3.7 or even 4.1 m saw then i find its best for the forwarder driver (normally me) just to pick them up where length way in the rack and stack the rest. I'd have to do a hell of a lot more softwood stands to build up to getting more than that. Still a harvester could do 10 to 20 times more than me. That makes me sad.
  14. I love full wrap handels they look so cool. But remember if your kunckels aren't grazed then you aint low enough.
  15. As Hama says there are some cracking point and shoot cameras out there. More than capeable of holding their own with a DSLR. The Nikon D60 is a great beginner camera for DSLR just a pain to get AF lenses for. If you can strech to a D90 then you can take some fantastic shots and have lots of options to grow into and explore. I have a Nikon D90 DSRL. Fantastic camera but if you want to do macro stuff you need a macro lense. I've got a few lenses for it do do different things. from 17mm to 300mm some fixed most zoom. S/H camera you can get some cracking deals. My friend got a Nikon D80 s/h had taken less shots than his D60 that he traded in at the same time. S/h lenses are great value i have a 17-50mm F2.8 lense. Cost 280 well over 500 new. It's my current fave. One thing about camera is that its a real Nikon/Cannon club. Once your in one the other brand does not exist
  16. http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/afag301.pdf Gloves.* The type of glove will depend on a risk assessment of the task and the machine. Consider the need for protection from cuts from the chainsaw, thorny material and cold/wet conditions. Where chainsaw gloves are required, these should comply with EN 381-7. Thats taken from the AFAG guide which set out best practice. HAVS is a far bigger risk than being cut by the chainsaw. So the grippy builders gloves offer protection that. Allow a better grip thus not leading to grip issues with Carple tunnel. Offer impact resistance and abrasion resistance. Slip that in the site risk assessment and you;d be ok? surely.
  17. That looks like another nifty gadget i shall buy and put in chainsaw box and never use again. It does look very useful though especially for the bigger chains. How hard is it to make a 48" bit of plastic.
  18. I have to go and listen to Unforgiven 2 now. Its a fantastic video.
  19. Gives you a little faith doesn't it. What took 40 mins? I wonder how many people they catch running on red? I bet it's omn the increase.
  20. Charlie has it right. I've just got a pair of Arbortec gloves which are pritty good. During the snow of the winter i wore a pair of thinsulate gloves with some big yellow grippy gloves over the top. My reasoning cold wet hands and going to be knackered by vibration than without.
  21. Nice. I'd love to have a go topping out a pine. How many trees did you take out?
  22. Thats a big bar to bend. You'll more than likely need to get a new one as they just never bend back totally streight. Even if you do get it right they'll always be a kink in the rails which will knacker the drive links of the chain.
  23. More power=better. I have a 660 with a 3' bar on mine. It works but its deadly slow on hardwoods when using the 3'. When using 20-25" bars its much better. I wish i had waited a month and saved the money and got a 880/3120.
  24. I'd say a good harvester operator in a softwood stand would be putting out more than 100m3 a day. 150 more likely. £5 a m3 for is a good start for forwarding but with rising fuel prices 7 maybe closer to the mark.

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