Charlieh

I have been looking at several manufacturers and they have min and max hp recommendations, Shear pin may be the way to go I suspect, I just wondered how the guys running chippers on big mogs went on etc? Surely the antistress wouldnt kick in soon enought to protect the machine as your not likely to cause a 150hp tractor to slow enough to activate it by feeding into a mchine that is recommended to only be run on half the hp? my understanding was stress control was on chipper flywheel rpm, so this wouldnt help in this case?

Hi, I have a technical question really, what would be the downside of running a pto chipper on a tractor that exceeded the max pto hp as specified by the manufacture. Say the chipper was 40-60hp and I wanted to stick it on a 85hp tractor, is it just the wear on parts like bearings will be accelerated, or will it be putting to much stress on parts like flywheel shafts?? I am suprised at how low the HP requirements of some PTO chippers seem to be, compared to their size really, I have a couple of tractors available to me and would be interested in putting a pto chipper on one, I would have liked to use an older massey I drive, but at 130+hp its going to destroy all but the biggest hand fed chipper by the looks of it. Shame as the smaller tractors arent really suited to using in rough terrain and woodlands.

Mine is with NFU, they will just have to take all your details and send it to their underwritters to sort out, be very carefull as standard their felling height is limited to something like about 8meters and after lots (and i mean lots) of negotiations with their underwriters i have got mine extended to 27.5mtrs. I wonder how many farmers exceed the felling height! other than that mine is just seperated into the different sections of my business, with percentage income each part generates and they will work you out a quote, but mine took over three weeks to get a quote out of them

certain softwoods stain in the sapwood as they dry out, to prevent this they are kept saturated, IIRC FC did this at a huge store in Thetford after the gale in 1987 EDIT: here you go a bit of info on the thetford one, I can remember driving past in when i was young Forestry Commission - News - great storm remembered

Nice, what sort of training do you need to operate one of those, do you need your FMOC tickets for a forwarder?

you must be selling it by the ton? is that why your keeping it watered to keep it nice and heavy

well after trawling ebay for ages, i now have an echo cs270wes, its 27cc and has a 12" bar on it, i can safely say its the easiest and best starting chainsaw i have ever come across, out the box it starts on 2nd pull! one with choke on and then choke off and it fires straight up!! its fantastically light, its over a kg lighter than a ms170 stihl 2kg lighter than my 346xp, and whilst being slightly lower on displacement and power I find it cuts with far more authority than a ms170/180. Also the tool-less acess to the air filter is spot on it really is! dare i say it better than the xp huskies! I do think the 12" bar is a bit on the long side really and echo do list an 8" bar for it, which would be ideal really, the bar supplied is a nice Tsumura solid bar and its really well built. The saw feels agressive in the cut, although i have only used it for firewood, im looking forward to getting it into some scrub clearance and early fell to waste thinnings, which i what i bought it for. all in all im really impressed, but time will tell on the quality of it. here is a picture of the little echo to give you some idea of what they look like

Im hoping to finish silage baling today, got one field to do, and last field of hay tomorrow,then the baler can be parked up (wont be sorry to see the back of it this summer its had a few problems) Last summer we had finished baling on august the 18th! so its been a lot more drawn out this year due to weather

any other good recipes for the dutch oven? got one ready for winter in the woods, its a bit of a step up from a jetboil

timber coming of a site i advise on, and just because i like this photo:thumbup:

well the 562xp is just going to be 560xp apparently and will come in 13 15 18" bars and my dealer recons he will have one in in the next 10days for me to try :thumbup:

keep a look as occasionally they put the items on the auction part of the site! also it may be worth giving them a ring and offering them a price as a lot of the kit sits on there for a good while

Rotzler, Hydraulic 25 ton Winch PR742 BL, #16985 - MOD Sales, Military Vehicles & Ex MOD Land Rovers for Sale Withams have a 25tonner ex mod, would look about right on your truck

what size timber are you looking to mill, I have milled with my 372 and i wouldnt want to mill above 18-20" with that as it was hard on the machine.

I would say the only way will be if you maybe find a farmer, who has a small woodland that he/she would be willing to sell. I was lucky with mine and dropped on a block less than a mile from my house. Everything has a price, have a look around locally and see if there is possibly something that you like the look of close to home, then approach the land owner (although you will have to give reassurances about usage etc). There are several companies that specialise in woodland sales, some of these that target the lifestyle buyers have the woods advertised at a greatly inflated price. Have a look at site like John Cleggs. Also its worth contacting your local agricultural land agents/auctioneers as they may know of something or be able to lot a woodland seperatly in a land sale for you.

and felling license!

you get your second chain when you leave feedback! how good of them is that

completely forgot this was on this weekend, (tbh i keep forgetting its a bank holiday, the joys of being self employed). It looks fairly family friendly as well? is there enough to look at to keep the wife interested?

near here most the NT guys have VTA, and this year a lot are doing PTI as well

Nothing at all, else we will all end up having to pay land owners for felling riverbank trees for woody debris projects. The way we have dealt with land owners in the past is to do a few more trees, to reduce shading and offer to ring a load up for them to use/sell. If its the land owners who's bank is eroding point out the value of the land you are protecting for them!

if your going to spray into the cut stems it wants doing in the next week or two, burn the cut material on site (it takes some burning!!!!!) but if you can burn it on top of where you have cut the material off, if your going to cut it and spray into the stems they want leaving about 18" tall. If you cut it back and dont treat it, you could find that next year that it has actually spread more. If its not got any mature trees or hedge plants near by you could consider using tordon22k (its very expensive) but I have had 100% kill with one treatment of this then you can cut the dead stems in the spring and they will burn a lot easier (dont use tordon if there are mature trees within 25mtrs of the knotweed)

I would have also have paid the BIN but thought i would start with a low offer and chance it. Just need to sort the new crank bearings now from the local bearings specialist

well the piston and cylinder arrived today by courier, its a full genuine stihl kit, brand new with all the bits including decomp valves etc, chuffed I can get the only 084 alive again now

you dont need any special training just sprayer tickets and relevant consents if on SSSI or wetland sites If your just spraying it, its the same as spraying anything else. Stem injecting is straight forward once you have the kit, its not really a dark art. Knowledge of herbicides available to you is more important than training, and you wont get this info on most courses only by researching the subject

Got down to 6.5degrees here last night, so the rayburn has been for the last two days, its solid fuel and we have no central heating so we have to light the fires to keep the house warm (I wouldnt have it any other way though!)