wills-mill

Awesome, love the old Forestor, and really want to see the yard loader!

I bought an Autotune version as a replacement for a Stihl 441- it was an absolutely fantastic saw until it was stolen with my other saws. I ran it with an 18in bar which is a brilliant combination to throw around, felt a little bit less clumsy than the 441. For the 4 months I had it, it was faultless Current level of funds and an unwillingness to buy top of the range gear if it's going to disappear again has meant I've bought a 365 (farmer spec/ non xp) which is a good old fashioned robust growler, but I do miss the grunt and zing of the 576, which charged through everything!

Quite like that Massey! Ideal if you like nosing on the neighbours

The theory is that you should be able to get more sawn cubic ft than you have hoppus ft, but it definitely doesn't hold true for logs under 12in quarter girth and it usually doesn't hold true when bark and sapwood have been removed from Oak, especially on flared or even slightly open grown trees. It's fairer on flared butts to take pretend tha you're going to crosscut the timber and then take 2 sets of measurements, even if you are going to mill at full length. If you buy timber that someone has measured up by the cubic metre and then converted to hoppus, then I think you get more logs for your money than if you were to measure up in Hoppus to start with- especially on smaller logs. There's a remark in my set of hoppus tables that British Customs would take the dividing number as 113 not 144, and that this may give a truer reflection of sawn cubic content... It might be time for a practical test!

Anyway back to the videos! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDUaW-ofyWc]YouTube - Wood Mizer sawmill timelapse[/ame] After a quick wrestle with Windows Movie Maker... it lives!

The RAC do a policy designed for caravan owners going on hols that will get you and trailer recovered to a site and then back home afterwards... all at a very reasonable price. They 'could' refuse to recover a trailer when your tow vehicle breaks down- however in real life they have always been very good lads!

Anyone have any ideas for software* if you've got a load of jpeg images that need to be threaded together to form a video? I found a free package that you could make a vid and view it, but not save it * almost wrote softwood

mobile sawmill..... Break it up into quarters at full length Then buzz through with any chainsaw you fancy, an 18in or 20in bar on a 660 always made me smile

TENAX Tenax is very good stuff...... Don't know about suppliers in Cumbria tho' Talk to Tenax, I'm sure that they'll help..

Most horse loggers would use a timber arch for bigger sticks of timber- you can get equivalents to go behind Quads, 4x4s and tractors, or use the arch 'remotely' on the end of a winch line or rope... I made one up a few years ago (it's a bit crude) but they work extremely well on pole length timber on relatively clean ground. LogRite<SUP>®</SUP> Tools logging tools These chaps do some superb arches.....

hydraulic press items - Get great deals on Vehicle Parts Accessories, Business, Office Industrial items on eBay UK! Am I missing the point or will a garage press or a fly press do the job- or even a bottle jack and a fabricated frame?

If you can get over the border, it might be worth talking to Aly and Toby Herefordshire Cleft Chestnut Fencing They know their stuff when it comes to Sweet Chestnut

You need a really gentle drying regime for burr, it's delicate and grumpy stuff If you get loads of cracking in Oak of any type, then you are rushing things. You can control your drying rate with shallower sticks than usual. Most people use 1/2in or 3/4in for 'normal' timber in a yard situation, you'll need to go down below 1/2in and keep the airflow over the timber down with a bit of sacking or screening to windward. As usual keep direct sunlight off. You can also slow the drying with a light coating of a finishing oil, you're not trying to seal it to death, just slow the exit of moisture. A lot of the old saywers I've spoken to also wouldn't even consider milling pure burr slabs at less than about 2 1/2in. Once the drying's got done, you can resaw- it just seems there's so much movement in thinner joinery boards that there's loads of wastage when it comes to planing. Weirdly, really thin stuff is really stable as you've found. Presumably it can dry quickly and lose the internal stresses before they crack and damage the timber...

There's some fantastic information on Woodweb.com if you need to get some very sound opinions on milling and drying, on a large and small scale. Search Results from WOODWEB's Site Search Engine From what I've read in the past, a lot of folk don't recommend using domestic or light industrial dehumidifiers for timber drying as the acids and tannins from the timber will corrode the internals of the machine. I've not had any experience of using them myself tho.... Don't send a home dehumidifier -- to do a commercial kiln's work

There's a public footpath through part of Staverton Thicks, which is much more tightly wooded than the parkland, but still great for veteran gnarlers if you want a quick mooch.

Hi John.... 'tis I, Mr Will with the Woodmizer. The container is a purpose built site container (not a shipping container) and has (had) a pair of flush fitting mortice deadlocks, which ended up being bent right round and then snapped off as the door was forced open. I can't quite work out how the door was forced, it's been pushed about and twisted, but it was all done manually with some sort of big chisel and lever. They then went through a Clarke steel site to get the saws. It barely put up a fight, very badly made It was done over Saturday night, they snipped the fencing and walked in and walked out to the roadside.

Container raided and my saws gone in West Sussex.... Stihls MS200t and MS660 Husqvarnas 357 and an almost new 576 Autotune. There can't be many of these around, so I'll dig the serial number out and get it posted up here. Sadly my big DeWalt chopsaw also went- a DW708. A fabulous bit of kit which has worked incredibly hard for me over the years I've had it.... W

Bought an ACE to replace a (stolen) lovely old 800kg lift Tirfor. It does the job really well, bit cheesy on the build quality but can't complain. Make sure you get a good load of spare shear pins (20??) - you can never be sure if the factory will move on and you don't want to bin a decent winch a couple of years down the line for a lack of pins.

Proper job! Arches are great bits of kit

Evening all. I've got a slightly odd job felling and moving a big Oak to roadside that then needs to be run up to Ellesmere Port in Cheshire for a boat building project. I know quite a few of the local guys who are hauliers around the South East, but was wondering if there's anyone running wagons up through the Midlands, Wales and the NW who needs a load to see them home- we see quite a few Shropshire based timber wagons down here but I don't know which firm(s) they are.... The Oak will be under 200 cu/ft in total, and is going to be 3 or 4 sections of about 16ft each. Collection can be any time in the first fortnight of Feb. Any ideas appreciated.....

I can't believe that I've never looked at this thread before :cool1:Epic!

Spookily enough I've just fitted a 500kg swinglift to the rear corner of an Ifor. I'll get some photos sorted out when I run through the yard in a couple of days....

It looks like I should have a go with a bit of an acid solution on one area and an alkaline solution on another...... Vinegar vs Ammonia I reckon

I think that deserves a separate thread

Maybe it's a bit like the old Trewhella clamps that can be used to shorten or lock off steel cable at a specific point- a bit like setting a prussik loop on a rope to give you an anchorage at a particular point.